Do a test run with your clamp to make sure it works for you before you put the paste on and solder it. It took me a couple of tries to get everything just right and lined up.
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Moving front sight
- Thread starter Freetrapper
- Start date
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Thanks Eric, will do.
jackley
40 Cal.
I bought mine called liquid solder at Ace Hardware. It comes in a tube.
Jerry
Jerry
Thank you Sir, I’ll check out my local Ace.
What temp does it melt at?
What temp does it melt at?
Less then 500, I’m thinking about 450 or so is what it says on the box.
Thanks again Tenngun, I didn’t know if the Ace solder paste was low temp like what I got from Track or not...
Octagonal breech area of the barrel? If so, opull the barrel out of the stock and lay the breach area onto the octagon that is the top flat on a large flat table. Then rest the area where the front sight should be onto the edge of a three-cornered or triangular file that is perpendicular to the barrel. Slide the file fore & aft ... PRESTO ... there’s your centerline.
Freetrapper
32 Cal
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2019
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That is a great idea. My solder came in yesterday but I had to work all weekend. I'll try that method tomorrow.
This really should go in the Builder's Bench area but since it is here I'll add a few points about soldering.
Both surfaces that are going to be joined together MUST be absolutely free of any oil or wax and they must be bare metal with no bluing/browning on them.
If the solder doesn't have flux in it, apply the flux to both clean surfaces. Rosin flux that is used for electrical wiring will not work on steel parts. Get a flux that is made for soldering steel.
If your using a torch to heat the metal DO NOT direct the flame directly at the area where the parts are to be joined. The flame should never be closer than 2 inches from the joint.
Slowly heat the largest part and let the part conduct the heat to the joint. You will know the melting has happened when you see the shiny solder appear at the edge of the joint.
Do not move the parts that are being soldered until the whole area has cooled several hundred degrees.
Both surfaces that are going to be joined together MUST be absolutely free of any oil or wax and they must be bare metal with no bluing/browning on them.
If the solder doesn't have flux in it, apply the flux to both clean surfaces. Rosin flux that is used for electrical wiring will not work on steel parts. Get a flux that is made for soldering steel.
If your using a torch to heat the metal DO NOT direct the flame directly at the area where the parts are to be joined. The flame should never be closer than 2 inches from the joint.
Slowly heat the largest part and let the part conduct the heat to the joint. You will know the melting has happened when you see the shiny solder appear at the edge of the joint.
Do not move the parts that are being soldered until the whole area has cooled several hundred degrees.
