Moravian inspired build

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Hatchet-Jack

.440, .490, .600 RB
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Today we inletted the bolster and tang.
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Then I got a lesson on making underlugs.
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Hatchet-Jack

.440, .490, .600 RB
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I made the barrel underlugs today. Then I worked on cutting the tenons down so I could fit the trigger guard in my new holder.
I've been practicing engraving on scrap brass. I think I'm finally starting to get the feel for it. Sharpening the graver properly was the first big aha moment when my teacher showed me how to create the proper angles and the heel.
Well I'm off to my teachers shop tomorrow! More to come.
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Hatchet-Jack

.440, .490, .600 RB
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Thank you sir.
One thing to note you need some very thin screws to mount the rails. I found these on Amazon that worked.

M3 x 25mm Wood Screws, Self-Tapping Phillips Drive Small Screws, Flat Head Small Wood Screws Made of Carbon Steel, Suitable for Wood Furniture and Drywall 80pcs and 20pcs Screw Anchors https://a.co/d/0kLDl91
 

Hatchet-Jack

.440, .490, .600 RB
MLF Supporter
Joined
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Messages
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Today at my teachers shop we finished inletting the tang so the barrel is finally in. I'm very pleased with the fit.
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Next step is to cut the underlugs channels and dove tails.
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The gun back at my shop where I will finish the other two underlugs.
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Hatchet-Jack

.440, .490, .600 RB
MLF Supporter
Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Inletting the lock plate. First step was to put a slight cant on the lock plate. This will keep the inletting tight. Next position the pan with the touch hole mark centered and the front of the lock plate where the bolt will be drilled (the web between bbl and RR channel). Centering the tail on the wrist. Next outline the bolster. Remove the bolster wood. When the lock plate sits down on the wood, cut an outline along the long sides with an exacto knife. Draw a line with pencil on the front and rear curves. Stab the line in with a chisel and gouge. Remove the wood. Use inletting blue or black to fit the lock plate.
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