I don't know about that. A spark is a spark whether it is electrically or flint created.Don’t think that heat would be a problem and there would be no sparks, besides which black powder is notoriously difficult to ignite with electric sparks.
As the barrel is an original it is probably iron or not as tough as today’s steels, so bashing the bullet could cause a slight bulge.
That isn’t true at all. An electrical spark is ionised air. Sparks from flint and steel are red-hot particles of steel.A spark is a spark whether it is electrically or flint created.
You mean it shouldn't take 7 pages to remove a stuck ball????I still don’t know whether to laugh or cry at this thread. I guess that I read it to marvel at the sheer stupidity of some who have posted answers and solutions. This has become a comedy that I see every morning. I think that I am out of this forum. Good riddance.
Some times folks that did not have success with a ball puller was they did not get the full length of the screw engaged into the lead ball. Measure your screw length, then mark the rod when the screw comes in contact with the lead, then screw the rod in the same measurement of the screw length.
Not from this quarter. I still want to know the load data. Powder, bullet diameter, cap and lube. That's the root cause here. Nearly every stuck ball I've seen in a musket was caused by one of those four items being ignored or following a "reenactorism"now the advice about polishing your bore is about to start! another 7 pages? great forum as everybody offers something.
congratulation's on a successful delivery!
And how many shots with out swabbing the bore?ot from this quarter. I still want to know the load data. Powder, bullet diameter, cap and lube. That's the root cause here. Nearly every stuck ball I've seen in a musket was caused by one of those four items being ignored or following a "reenactorism"
Polishing the bore has absolutely nothing to do with this
If the load is correct, that is not an issue with a musket. I've often gone long shot strings without wiping as the minie system is designed to do exactly that. Get one of the parts wrong and presto, the original subject of this thread.And how many shots with out swabbing the bore?
It must require quite a bit of grease to do this with a muzzleloading rife. And wouldn’t the subsequent powder charge get caught in all that bore-slime and not properly fill the breech? (without a funnel drop tube)Well done Winters. Bet it was a huge relief and well done to your friend.
You can do the same. Cut some cards wads from a suitable punch. Drop powder add a card, add a blob of lube, add second card and ram home. That's wet and semi scraped the bore. Now load the bullet.
The advantage of this over swabbing is that you don't run the risk of wetting the nipple bolster causing a misfire. You also don't need to carry water, patches and a second rod, just load and shoot.
With swabbing your starting on a clean bore again. With out swabbing, once your barrel has a consistent coating of lube (just like a regular 22 barrel) it will shoot its best.