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Milling out 1860 Pietta inserts for a Ransom Rest

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Well, they aren't my "theories", it's the Colt design. You tend to think the Italians make Colt style revolvers better than Colt. They don't.
My point was made after your explanation of the all important wedge thickness blah blah . . . you can't seem to understand that the depth of the wedge means zilch if the arbor is bottoming out. After the clearance is removed with the wedge installed (under tension) it doesn't matter how much more you drive the wedge in, it won't change the endshake !! . . . which is the whole point!!
So, if you're not going to impart any tension on the Union of the 2 assemblies when the spacer is installed, why bother with continuing your experiment? In other words, if you're not going to do it right, why bother?
A loose fit wedge with or without a spacer makes no difference. It's not the " presence " of a spacer that counts . . . it's the actual use of the spacer taking up space and being under tension (because the wedge is PULLING the BARREL assembly AGAINST the end of the arbor!! Why is that so hard to understand?

Mike
Now you've moved the goal posts! What happened to short arbor guns being inaccurate and likely to fail in the end of the arbor slot? I get that end fit may have been universal in original Colts ( I doubt you've actually checked many ,if any) but don't agree that it is critical to accuracy or longevity.
As to the bother, I want to know if you and your cadre are full of manure or not!
 
Sorry about being slow answering your question as I had a small set back (could have been a lot worse) on the job Thursday involving a table saw and two digits on the left hand which will set back this experiment a while. They sewed the middle finger back on and looks like we can save it. Cut a plug of meat out of the thumb but didn't get the bone.
Any way the reason I never felt the need to fit the arbor end to the well bottom is because my short arbor Pieta shot as well or better ( over bench and sand bags) than my tuned solid frame guns that I was winning matches with. It did need a new trigger and wedge because both were to soft from the factory and deformed over some years of use. The new parts made of tool steel solved the problem thus far without change. I went with a new bolt/trigger flat spring made from a stainless steel flat/coil spring taken out of a broken Luftkin measuring tape which worked perfectly , are indestructible and have a faster response time then does wire/coil/lever springs.
I tend to go with things I can see actually working and the (if it ain't broke) idea in mind.
Damn!
 
By the way, I saw you got a "beat up" wedge . . . wonder how that happened?


And, as far as calling me a "liar", I've got pics of 3 originals I've worked on. How many have you worked on in all your years of being around guns . . . ?

Mike
 
Sorry about your accident. Those things can happen in a split second with shop tools for sure. Like you said could have been worse very easily. Hope you heal up soon, stay safe.
I go in for surgery Thursday. They are going to drill into the bone through the first joint and drive a pin in sticking out the end for six weeks, for new bone to form around. Bet that will feel good when the nerve block wears off! 😄 Hope they give me some good pain meds! I have quite a lot of both glass and gun work to catch up on so hope things go well.
 
Yeah, they’ll give you the good stuff. Funny thing is the pins sticking out won’t bother you much and everyone cringes when they come out but that is seriously the least of it. The manure they left behind is giving me fits. Setting off metal detectors etc..
Best of luck!
 
Speedy recovery!!! Stay safe.
I'm through and all went well. The arm has no feeling and is like a stick of wood in the sling and I feel like I'm coming off a bender but without the head ache ! 😄 I'll get back on the experiment as soon as I'm able. I'm hoping we all can pick up some useful knowledge from the effort !
 
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