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Metal working files?

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A bastard is too fine??What are you trying to file down?
After all these responses and looking back at my tools, it appears I had actually bought the wrong file and it was not a bastard file.

I also do not have a vice yet, so it was metal band C-clamped to a table, which was not optimal.
 
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After all these responses and looking back at my tools, it appears I had actually bought the wrong file and it was not a bastard file.

I also do not have a vice yet, so it was metal band C-clamped to a table, which was not optimal.
Something I went to years ago when they first came out was bronze/brass tooth brushes for file cleaning. Below is one type for regular size files.

1668102107246.png

For smaller files and needle files, the smaller Bronze/Brass All Purpose Cleaning Brush works like a charm.

1668102280447.png


Gus
 
Something I went to years ago when they first came out was bronze/brass tooth brushes for file cleaning. Below is one type for regular size files.

View attachment 174177
For smaller files and needle files, the smaller Bronze/Brass All Purpose Cleaning Brush works like a charm.

View attachment 174178

Gus
I already got a set of the first type to clean off rust, so that’s great to know!
 
The Art of Recreating the Pennsylvania Longrifle
My copy came and I have been reading through it. Incredible resource. I had not started thinking about wood working yet*, when I ordered it, but it laid out how to approach it in such a clear way that I am now itching to carve a stock and try inletting a barrel.

*besides finishing the pre cut stock/tiller of my recently completed project.
 
I have a boat load of old files of all sorts and grades. I get them at garage sales very cheaply because they are frequently either oil clogged or rusty. You can sharpen files cheaply too. Clean the file up with some kerosene and a wire brush to get rid of as much crud as you can. Dry them off. Get a heavy plastic trough (old Tupperware, wallpaper water tub, small fish tank, etc.) big enough to lay the files flat and not touching each other. Lay some cheap dowel’s across the bottom so the files aren’t laying against the bottom the put the files on top of the dowels. Get plain old sulphuric acid from a battery supply shop (exide, battery world, etc they always have extra on hand and it’s usually very cheap.). Fill the tub with acid until the files are drowned and keep a half inch of acid above the top of the files. Cover and let set overnight or maybe a bit more depending on how cruddy they were. When you take them out, wash them with a baking soda/ Water solution to neutralize the acid. Try them out, if they need more, wash them in water and put them back into the acid. If they’re sharp, wash in water and put them somewhere warm to dry thoroughly. Obviously, you should use rubber gloves, safety glasses and common sense as you only get issued one set of eyes. How it works is that the acid eats away at all surfaces evenly so as it eats away it removes metal from the two vertical sides that make up the “ tooth” of the file and the point (cutting edge) sharpens. It also eats any old crud and metal out of the grooves giving new filings a place to go. Sorry for the overly long post, but it’s a good thing to know and saves money. The more money we save the more rifles we can have.
 
My copy came and I have been reading through it. Incredible resource. I had not started thinking about wood working yet*, when I ordered it, but it laid out how to approach it in such a clear way that I am now itching to carve a stock and try inletting a barrel.

*besides finishing the pre cut stock/tiller of my recently completed project.


You will discover your most critical tool investments are typically investments in feeding your brain.
 
I have a boat load of old files of all sorts and grades. I get them at garage sales very cheaply because they are frequently either oil clogged or rusty. You can sharpen files cheaply too. Clean the file up with some kerosene and a wire brush to get rid of as much crud as you can. Dry them off. Get a heavy plastic trough (old Tupperware, wallpaper water tub, small fish tank, etc.) big enough to lay the files flat and not touching each other. Lay some cheap dowel’s across the bottom so the files aren’t laying against the bottom the put the files on top of the dowels. Get plain old sulphuric acid from a battery supply shop (exide, battery world, etc they always have extra on hand and it’s usually very cheap.). Fill the tub with acid until the files are drowned and keep a half inch of acid above the top of the files. Cover and let set overnight or maybe a bit more depending on how cruddy they were. When you take them out, wash them with a baking soda/ Water solution to neutralize the acid. Try them out, if they need more, wash them in water and put them back into the acid. If they’re sharp, wash in water and put them somewhere warm to dry thoroughly. Obviously, you should use rubber gloves, safety glasses and common sense as you only get issued one set of eyes. How it works is that the acid eats away at all surfaces evenly so as it eats away it removes metal from the two vertical sides that make up the “ tooth” of the file and the point (cutting edge) sharpens. It also eats any old crud and metal out of the grooves giving new filings a place to go. Sorry for the overly long post, but it’s a good thing to know and saves money. The more money we save the more rifles we can have.
Thanks, I assumed that sharpening of files involved some kind of acid. Thanks for the details, I’ll have to give that a try on some of my older dull files!
 
Do you have any recommendations for metal working books? My girlfriend has a bunch of woodworking books that I am borrowing, so I now have that part covered.
I ended up finding one.

I got Metalworking in the Home Shop, by E.F. Lindsley. I am only partway through, but it has so far been a great general instruction for someone (me) with no experience in metal working.
 

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