I would like to use a steel ramrod on my fowler. The thimbles are an easy fix, but the entry thimble and hole in the stock will require more thought. So far I am thinking of staining a dowel to match the stock, drill a 1/4 in. hole through it and epoxy into the entry thimble. Anyone have an easier way? I am all ears. :v :hmm:
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metal ramrod
- Thread starter bud in pa
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Black Hand
Cannon
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Why...?bud in pa said:
A hickory rod is more than adequate.
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Bud,
Don't know why you want to do this, but here is a good way to go. Make a small spring that is half S shaped with one end extending straight and put a hole in in the straight section for a small screw. Then fasten the spring as close to the entry pipe that you can still insert the screw. The S shape needs to be into the pipe some. When the spring is fastened, it should restrict the entry hole enough so when the rod enters, there will be pressure against it. I have made springs out of old leaf rakes. The ones that have the flexible tangs.
Flintlocklar
Don't know why you want to do this, but here is a good way to go. Make a small spring that is half S shaped with one end extending straight and put a hole in in the straight section for a small screw. Then fasten the spring as close to the entry pipe that you can still insert the screw. The S shape needs to be into the pipe some. When the spring is fastened, it should restrict the entry hole enough so when the rod enters, there will be pressure against it. I have made springs out of old leaf rakes. The ones that have the flexible tangs.
Flintlocklar
Or go with one of these: Unbreakable wooden ramrods. A bit pricey, but maybe buy once, cry once. I don't have one BTW
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Hi,
You will have the same problems that British ordnance had when they initially converted to steel rammers. First, the spring in the rear ramrod pipe is very weak and breaks easily. I know this because I made an historically correct rear thimble for a British musket conversion from wooden ramrod to steel. Next, if you put a spring in the rear pipe you will also need to put bushings in ALL of the remaining pipes or the rod will rattle, which is incredibly annoying. If you want a metal rod, replace all the pipes with those fitted for a metal rod.
dave
You will have the same problems that British ordnance had when they initially converted to steel rammers. First, the spring in the rear ramrod pipe is very weak and breaks easily. I know this because I made an historically correct rear thimble for a British musket conversion from wooden ramrod to steel. Next, if you put a spring in the rear pipe you will also need to put bushings in ALL of the remaining pipes or the rod will rattle, which is incredibly annoying. If you want a metal rod, replace all the pipes with those fitted for a metal rod.
dave
Thanks for the tips.
Canuck Bob
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My plan is too look into using a steel tubing for the ram rod to eliminate gun mods and keep weight in check, 3/8" in my case. My Lyman Deerstalker came with an aluminum rod and I really like the sturdy nature of the metal rod.
See if you have any buddies that hunt with a bow. If they have any aluminum arrows that are worn out, they can be fashioned into serviceable ram rods.
kansas_volunteer
45 Cal.
I've been thinking about building a pistol with a steel ramrod. Seems to me the slender steel rod would fit well in an ordinary sized hole if it had a 3/8ths ball on the end. The ball would also make shoving a load down the barrel a little less uncomfortable than pushing a small diameter steel rod.
54ball
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When I started reenacting I had to retrofit my gun with an iron rammer.
I drove a smaller diameter piece of copper tubing into the first pipe friction fit only. You could slightly flair the tubing to aid in pipe entry and give a shoulder to fit against the existing thimble.
Do nothing to the middle and entry pipe. They need to be open to catch the rammer especially if it's slightly bent.
Like this I could easily do the the 3X a minute musket drill with a civilian gun.
Downside.....
At any muzzle down attitude the iron rammer slides out.
Solution....
Put a slight bend in the iron rammer. It does not have to be a lot but enough to where a friction fit holds the rammer in the pipes and ramrod hole.
Too much bend and you can skip off the entry pipe...too little bend and it slides out.
Downside...
You really need a bore protector when you clean the the gun or be sure to keep the slightly bent rod off the edges of the muzzle with your fingers when you clean the gun.
This was for a beater reenactor gun. A decent gun but nothing special.
Would I do this to a high end 18th Century Custom gun?
Heck No! I would use a hickory ramrod and load accordingly.
Wooden ramrods have limitations. The main issue with wooden rods is when shooters try to use them as if they were steel.
You can load a gun with river cane but you have respect the limitations of the material.
And No.....I'm not advocating cane rammers.
I drove a smaller diameter piece of copper tubing into the first pipe friction fit only. You could slightly flair the tubing to aid in pipe entry and give a shoulder to fit against the existing thimble.
Do nothing to the middle and entry pipe. They need to be open to catch the rammer especially if it's slightly bent.
Like this I could easily do the the 3X a minute musket drill with a civilian gun.
Downside.....
At any muzzle down attitude the iron rammer slides out.
Solution....
Put a slight bend in the iron rammer. It does not have to be a lot but enough to where a friction fit holds the rammer in the pipes and ramrod hole.
Too much bend and you can skip off the entry pipe...too little bend and it slides out.
Downside...
You really need a bore protector when you clean the the gun or be sure to keep the slightly bent rod off the edges of the muzzle with your fingers when you clean the gun.
This was for a beater reenactor gun. A decent gun but nothing special.
Would I do this to a high end 18th Century Custom gun?
Heck No! I would use a hickory ramrod and load accordingly.
Wooden ramrods have limitations. The main issue with wooden rods is when shooters try to use them as if they were steel.
You can load a gun with river cane but you have respect the limitations of the material.
And No.....I'm not advocating cane rammers.
Brass more better, IMHO.
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