Maynard second model carbine

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Brianc

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Good evening to all from Kentucky. I’m looking at possibly purchasing a second model Maynard cavalry carbine that uses a brass cartridge but a percussion cap. I believe it dates to 1865 and has the inspectors cartouche on the stock . I’m wondering about loading it and what anyone here with experience would recommend. I do have muzzle loading experience just not of this type . Thank you to your time
 

sharpendjay

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Lodgewood sells a little press for pushing your bullet into the brass cartridge, around 21 grains of bp will work but you will want to work up your own load if you are a serious target shooter. N-SSA is an excellent resource for info on shooting just about all types of CW guns. Guys in the N-SSA have more experience shooting these arms than the soldiers who fought in the war.


All BP enthusiasts should consider joining a N-SSA unit, it is in my opinion an amazingly fun time.
 

Brianc

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Lodgewood sells a little press for pushing your bullet into the brass cartridge, around 21 grains of bp will work but you will want to work up your own load if you are a serious target shooter. N-SSA is an excellent resource for info on shooting just about all types of CW guns. Guys in the N-SSA have more experience shooting these arms than the soldiers who fought in the war.


All BP enthusiasts should consider joining a N-SSA unit, it is in my opinion an amazingly fun time.
I’m also noticing they sell a reduced capacity case and a 515 lee mold is that a good place to start ?
 

Zonie

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Before someone complains about this post let me say, the Maynard is one of the breech loading guns the Muzzleloading forum allows.

Although the Maynard rifle and carbine was designed by Dr. Edward Maynard, the same man who designed the Maynard self priming tape system, these guns uses a regular Musket cap which is separate from the cartridge to fire it. That is why the guns are acceptable on the forum.

(For those who haven't heard of the Maynard tape prime system it basically used a paper roll of caps just like a modern cap pistol but larger and more durable. The Army liked the idea and many of the muskets bought used the system. They proved to be rather unreliable and many of the troops disliked them so the use of the system was dropped. )
 

sharpendjay

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if you are just plinking then yes that might be a good place to start, if you are wanting to dial it in for competition than it could get more complicated. My maynard is .50 on the lands and .516 in the grooves so a .517 - .518 bullet works for my maynard. You want your bullet to be 1-2/1000ths larger than your grooves. You can measure your grooves by slugging or with a three point micrometer. I believe the reduced load brass only holds up to 24 grains of powder which may or may not be your best load. So you could start with the full capacity, use cream of wheat filler if necessary while you develop your "best" load.
 

Brianc

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Thank you for your time I really appreciate the help for a newby
 

Rudyard

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So my Norwegian Kammer loader & Swedish same style are OK along with WR Monkey tails .All external cappers fine by me , I don't see any rush to get such guns nor Cabelas stocking them any time soon .
Rudyard
 

Zonie

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So my Norwegian Kammer loader & Swedish same style are OK along with WR Monkey tails .All external cappers fine by me , I don't see any rush to get such guns nor Cabelas stocking them any time soon .
Rudyard
They would probably be more suited to being posted on a Norwegian or Swedish or perhaps British site but they do meet the forums requirements.
As you know, the Muzzleloading Forum is an American site and most of our members are more interested in the firearms that were used in America rather than a foreign country.
 

Rudyard

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That's fine I suppose I am a bit international in out look. I only own one American rifle a 40 cal hog rifle but do make the American sorts just don't use them. due to weight mostly.
Regards Rudyard
 

Brianc

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So a bit of a loaded question ,is one of these worth 1500.00 in shooting condition? Wood is decent with legible cartouches bore is “frosty “ but strong rifling and seems tight in the action as verified by a gunsmith I fire an original 1861 William Mason contract so I kinda know my way around caution with antiques but not afraid of them
 

gemmer

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So a bit of a loaded question ,is one of these worth 1500.00 in shooting condition? Wood is decent with legible cartouches bore is “frosty “ but strong rifling and seems tight in the action as verified by a gunsmith I fire an original 1861 William Mason contract so I kinda know my way around caution with antiques but not afraid of them
Ask that question on the N-SSA forum. Photos will help. Expect a comment from RaiderANV.
 

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