Matchlock mechanism drawings, anybody?

[TFoley]

A friend of mine in the Lower 48 is keen to have a go at making a matchlock arquebus, and as he is not a member here, I'm asking on his behalf if anybody can point me a source for drawings of such a mechanism.

TIA

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Start with this, for operating principle, but no dimensions.

http://firearmshistory.blogspot.com/2010/04/matchlocks.html?m=1

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/matchlock-plans.65067/

 

[tenngun]

Good video I just watched today on you tube called match lock musket replica home made By jgn 69 has a good photo of the inside of the lock

 

[TFoley]

Many thanks, Gentlemen, I've passed all this on to him. Let's see what he does with it!

 

[TFoley]

Well, it seems that he is keen on joining us here, which can only be a good thing, IMO.

 

[cw1873]

Drawings can be found here: http://feuerwaffen.ch/drawings.htm

For a variety of ignition systems up to Forsyth percussion

 

[russellshaffer]

Here are a couple of nice photos. I'm going to use them - I printed the photos in different sizes and I'm going to take measurments from the photo so I get the movements right. I printed them in 5X7 and 4X6 and I think the 5X7 will be best for me. These have the flash pan on the lock instead of the barrel. I think that will be easier than trying to dovetail the pan onto the barrel and if the matchlock isn't as much fun as I expect I will drill out the flash hole for a nippple and build a sidehamer lock.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

... if the matchlock isn't as much fun as I expect I will drill out the flash hole for a nipple and build a sidehamer lock.

I predict that you will NEVER be adding a drum & nipple to that barrel ... as once you go ‘match’, there’s no turning back ...

 

[CapnJack]

Many thanks to TFoley for pointing me in this direction when I mentioned I was interested in building a Matchlock. Since joining the Site I've been going over many of the drawings and photos. I have a definite oriental look in mind, but I soon realized there is a, "Chicken, or the Egg" quandary. Which
part to concentrate on first. I've finally decided that the sequence should be, first the stock, then the barrel and lastly the lock, while keeping in mind the overall look I want to achieve.

I am a long time shooter and in the past I've owned and used percussion BP in both rifles and pistols.
I have assembled many, but never actually built a firearm, so I may be leaning heavily on the knowledge of the membership for pointers.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

I would determine the lock 1st, as the shape, size and design then dictates which era and/or country of origin the stock (even the wood used) would emulate. Then the barrel details.

 

[CapnJack]

I appreciate your suggestions, but I'm not a purest and I'm really not trying to make an authentic replica. I would just like to prove to myself that I can build a functional instrument. My barrel will be as long as I can bore it with the lock a reverse serpentine,to keep pan flash as far from my face as practical and the stock will be basic, to fit me.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

I appreciate your suggestions, but I'm not a purest and I'm really not trying to make an ethnic replica. I would just like to prove to myself that I can build a functional instrument. My barrel will be as long as I can bore it with the lock a reverse serpentine,to keep pan flash as far from my face as practical and the stock will be basic, to fit me.

Sounds like a plan then, enjoy the build!

FWIW all 3 of my matchlocks are right-handed and I’m a lefty. Not only hasn’t the pan flash ever bothered me ... I’ve never seen the flash ... as ALL my focus is on the front bead.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

TFoley,

If you go to this link, you will get a very wide range of original matchlocks.
The forum has a vast amount of information on them, much of it courtesy of Michael Tromner, now sadly deceased.
If you visit this forum and do a search, there is very little not covered.

http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7524&highlight=snap+matchlock

 

[CapnJack]

TFoley,
Thanks for the pointer. I opened that Site and said, WOW! easy to get over whelmed there.
I've bookmarked it for later. The neighbor dug up our cable yesterday and I'm still sorting
things out.

 

[CapnJack]

Flint62smoothie,
"All my MZL’drs will shoot into a ragged hole ALL DAY LONG! ... it's just the additional shots that open the group!"

That's why I like my .458S. It shoots 1 hole 5 shot groups, 2" in diameter. ;-)

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Cap'n Jack,

Welcome Cap'n!

If you go to that site again, you could always punch in "Toradar" or Torador, and the arms of India will show up. I have a couple or 3, and they shoot very quickly as well, but not snap-locks.
If you want to make a short snap-lock there's one on here I made a while ago. Copied from one Michael Tromner owned.
No measurements on it, but I think it shows the guts.

I look forward to seeing your progress on it, whatever style it is!

Richard.

 

[CapnJack]

Pukka Bundook,
I picked up a slab of wood today for my stock. WOW ! I had forgotten how much a good clear piece costs. (Twice the cost of a barrel from Numrich)
My barrel is supposed to be here tomorrow. I think my first project will be making a plug and having
a tang welded on.

Jack

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Cap'n,

What barrel are you using?

A wile ago I got some heavy -walled drawn tubing for another matchlock or two.
It is a larger diameter than that I used for the snap-lock, and of a somewhat smaller bore. It Should turn out with more flare than the last one, and closer to the original. As it comes, this tubing has a beautiful "bore" and doesn't need any finishing. I think it cost me $60.-odd Canadian for a length sufficint for two barrels.

I look forward to you keeping us up to date with your doings, Jack!

R.

 

[CapnJack]

I bought an unchambered .67? Smooth bore barrel for $30.00 U.S. from Numrich.
I wanted something slightly over .625 as I intend to use glass marbles instead of
lead balls. I switched to marbles in a Tower flintlock I used to have and it quit
trying to break my wrist when I fired it.

PS What dia. did you drill your vents?

 

[Pukka Bundook]

LOL! I too thought about marbles, but they won't fit down mine!

Non-toxic ammo eh?

Touchhole, now then,..... Bigger than 1/16" for sure. I think it was 5/64". I don't like them too small.