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Matchlock cord not igniting powder?

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Hey everyone I recently acquired a 17th century fishtail matchlock, but I'm struggling to get the match cord to ignite the powder. It's a slow burn match from Dixie gun works I believe but when I lower the burning match to the powder it doesn't ignite most of the time it puts the match out. I switched to 4f goex powder in the pan but still no luck. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Hey everyone I recently acquired a 17th century fishtail matchlock, but I'm struggling to get the match cord to ignite the powder. It's a slow burn match from Dixie gun works I believe but when I lower the burning match to the powder it doesn't ignite most of the time it puts the match out. I switched to 4f goex powder in the pan but still no luck. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Resoak the match in stump remover broth and let dry. Or make your own from pure cotton rope.
 
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Does the match form a good 'head' on it whilst burning? Can you post a picture?

Do you blow on the head PRIOR to loading the match? And after loading the match into the serpentine, do you (with the pan cover CLOSED!) blow ACROSS the breech again to put a good head on the burning cord before firing?

TIP - Without a loaded arm or burning cord, figure out best placement where the cord needs to be positioned to hit the center of the pan bottom. Now, close the pan cover ... and SLOWLY lower the cord to just barely touch the top of the pan cover. I bet you dollars to donuts that is NOT the center of the pan cover, as whereas the pan cover is higher than the bottom of the pan, it is likely a little more forward of the center of the pan bottom (due to the arc of the serpentine). Make note of that position ... and for matchlock newbies, I suggest putting a dot of Sharpie marker in that spot as a learning tool.

Now go load your arm, prime your arm, and light your cord. You know to BLOW OFF any stray priming powder away from the pan I hope, after you close the pan? When you go to load the matchcord, then lower it to the pan cover (that is CLOSED!) and ensure the glowing tip hits your marker spot. With time and shots down range, you'll position it best without any marker to identify the best cord position, it'll become 2nd nature ... provided you shoot often.

Otherwise, I betcha that cord you have is 'old' and has lost its ooommmmpphhhhh ... note use of the period correct technical term there :ghostly:.
 
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foxm1754

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Lots of great information on this Forum regarding matchlocks. Use the Search icon in the upper right hand corner of the Page (magnifying glass with Search next to it) with the keyword "matchlock cord". It should lead you to lots of conversation threads including "Slow Match Help".
All the best on your endeavors.
 
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Thanks for the reply. How do you make stump remover broth?
Here's but one method ... Making Matchcord , but note, DO NOT hang it to dry, as then the elixir can run all to one end and become a 'fuse', which you don't want. I let it air dry flat on wax paper or in a large cheap tin cookie sheet or such.
 

Pukka Bundook

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Tercio,
I much prefer hemp for matchcord, in fact wont use anything but hemp, Or tinder. (fungus)
One tip, do not lower the match Slowly into the powder!
Let the serpent move slowly toward the powder, but before it disappears behind the flash fence, give the lever a quick little snap to drop the match into the priming Briskly!
Slowly into the powder may not ignite Or put out your match.
 

russellshaffer

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Be careful about stump remover. Some of it, including the Spectracide, no longer contain potassium nitrate. I made some powder a while back and it wouldn't burn at all, even using a propane torch. Lucky it was only a 4 ounce batch. Do be sure to blow on the match and get that red hot coal on the end.
 

Canute Rex

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A lot of stump remover is now enzyme based instead of potassium nitrate based. A friend of mine used some and said it just smelled bad. I told him to read the package and it said "Powerful enzymes!" You can just buy potassium nitrate on eBay.

More important than that is bucking the match. That is boiling it in wood ash liquor (potash) or potassium carbonate to get the lignin out of the rope. Lignin gives the rope strength, but also forms a lot of ash, which gets in between the glowing coal and the powder. Look up "bucking" or "lignin" on this site and you'll find instructions.

Well made match should burn to a cone shaped coal on the end with little ash.
 

Sam squanch

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I grind my priming powder to a fine dust. Some old matchlock pans had a “x” in the bottom of the pan to grind the powder with your thumb.
 
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Dudadiesel has potassium nitrate, is where I purchased mine.
 

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Belleville

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Hey everyone I recently acquired a 17th century fishtail matchlock, but I'm struggling to get the match cord to ignite the powder. It's a slow burn match from Dixie gun works I believe but when I lower the burning match to the powder it doesn't ignite most of the time it puts the match out. I switched to 4f goex powder in the pan but still no luck. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
I built a m'lock several years ago and started with Dixie match. I had the same results as you. I got some heavier brown match, I suppose it hemp? It worked so much better.
 

flintlock75

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Hey everyone I recently acquired a 17th century fishtail matchlock, but I'm struggling to get the match cord to ignite the powder. It's a slow burn match from Dixie gun works I believe but when I lower the burning match to the powder it doesn't ignite most of the time it puts the match out. I switched to 4f goex powder in the pan but still no luck. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
I had the same problem, I was using it on my canon. I bought salt peter ( potassium nitrate) at the pharmacy. Mixed with some water and poured on a cookie sheet, layer out the cord in it and let us soak and dry out. It produced a good hot cherry. Worked great.
 
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