MAPLE WOOD TO PRACTICE FINISHINGS

[Kilted Cowboy]

I would like to practice different types of stain and AF of scrap maple wood before I commit to doing it for real on a Kibler build I have on order. But can't find any locally. That stuff doesn't grow on trees down here in Texas. Pun intended. Stuff I am seeing on line seems to be either too small like for turning pens or large stock pieces. Any idea where I can locate some? Got the extra fancy maple so do not want to experiment on that.
Thanks for any help

 

[Black Hand]

I would like to practice different types of stain and AF of scrap maple wood before I commit to doing it for real on a Kibler build I have on order. But can't find any locally. That stuff doesn't grow on trees down here in Texas. Pun intended. Stuff I am seeing on line seems to be either too small like for turning pens or large stock pieces. Any idea where I can locate some? Got the extra fancy maple so do not want to experiment on that.
Thanks for any help

Find a Custom Cabinet shop and see if they have scraps that you might use.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

The hardwood lumber bins at Lowes and Home Depot often have maple boards with curl. I may sort through quite a few before finding one to make a loading block from. I have also used these boards for experimenting with stains and aquafortis.

 

[Black Hand]

I would like to practice different types of stain and AF of scrap maple wood before I commit to doing it for real on a Kibler build I have on order. But can't find any locally. That stuff doesn't grow on trees down here in Texas. Pun intended. Stuff I am seeing on line seems to be either too small like for turning pens or large stock pieces. Any idea where I can locate some? Got the extra fancy maple so do not want to experiment on that.
Thanks for any help

If you have extra-fancy Maple, then the ONLY colorant you should consider IS Aquafortis. That's my view and I'm sticking to it...

 

[Tom A Hawk]

If you have extra-fancy Maple, then the ONLY colorant you should consider IS Aquafortis. That's my view and I'm sticking to it...

Agreed! I tried several stains when working on the fullstock Hawken and came back to Aquafortis. It brings out the best contrast between the hard and soft grain.

 

[Black Hand]

Another thing to consider is that every piece of Maple will react differently to colorant, so all the practice in the world just teaches you technique and doesn't guarantee a particular/specific outcome.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Another thing to consider is that every piece of Maple will react differently to colorant, so all the practice in the world just teaches you technique and doesn't guarantee a particular/specific outcome.

Hear, hear ...

 

[Kilted Cowboy]

Thanks want to practice technique so I can figure out how much heat etc. I understand all wood will react different. Just want the practice. Want to practice using Jim's Iron nitrite powder with the AF and AF without toe nitrite powder to see the difference. Also heard some add some color stain to the finish oil want to play with that too. Thanks for the advice

 

[Black Hand]

Thanks want to practice technique so I can figure out how much heat etc. I understand all wood will react different. Just want the practice. Want to practice using Jim's Iron nitrite powder with the AF and AF without toe nitrite powder to see the difference. Also heard some add some color stain to the finish oil want to play with that too. Thanks for the advice

If I understand what you mean by "iron nitrite powder", then you are essentially using the SAME thing. Aquafortis is iron dissolved in nitric acid while the iron nitrate (ferric nitrate) is the product of the previous reaction turned into crystals/powder which the end user mixes with water or alcohol. Both do the same thing in the same way...

 

[Kilted Cowboy]

My bad Black Hand I meant Tannic Acid powder. Looks like it is put on before the AF. Want to see how AF looks with and without the tannic acid mix. Thanks

 

[Robby]

You could get a bag of those big wide tongue depressors at the drug store.
Robby

 

[Black Hand]

My bad Black Hand I meant Tannic Acid powder. Looks like it is put on before the AF. Want to see how AF looks with and without the tannic acid mix. Thanks

That is a different story but my statement above still applies. All the tannic acid does is add additional tannic acid to wood that already contains tannic acid which reacts with the iron and is precipitated/changes state to create the color upon heating.

 

[Black Hand]

You could get a bag of those big wide tongue depressors at the drug store.
Robby

No offense, but what would one learn from this considering you can't guarantee the wood is even maple...?

 

[Kilted Cowboy]

That is a different story but my statement above still applies. All the tannic acid does is add additional tannic acid to wood that already contains tannic acid which reacts with the iron and is precipitated/changes state to create the color upon heating.

I am confused. Does the tannic acid intensify the AF reaction or is it a waste of time and money. Any benifit to using both on premium wood?

 

[Black Hand]

I am confused. Does the tannic acid intensify the AF reaction or is it a waste of time and money. Any benefit to using both on premium wood?

It may not intensify in all areas but may equalize reactions along the wood (different areas may contain differing levels of tannic acid).

Benefit or waste? Depends on you.

Would I (as in I specifically) use it? No.

Why? Because I am of the view that the maple will do what it wants and I don't feel it is truly important to fractionally affect the final appearance - I get what I get and I am happy with what happens. I seriously doubt the original builders worried what the final color would be and neither do I.

I do however use a finish with a red tint to intensify the naturally-occurring red color that develops with Aquafortis.

 

[Kilted Cowboy]

It may not intensify in all areas but may equalize reactions along the wood (different areas may contain differing levels of tannic acid).

Benefit or waste? Depends on you.

Would I (as in I specifically) use it? No.

Why? Because I am of the view that the maple will do what it wants and I don't feel it is truly important what the final appearance is - I get what I get and I am happy with what happens. I seriously doubt the original builders worried what the final color would be and neither do I.

I do however use a finish with a red tint to intensify the naturally-occurring red color that develops with Aquafortis.

Good point. I get too hung up on overthinking stuff, just ask my wife. Do you have a base line percentage on the tint amount you use with your finishing oil? Damn there I go again.

 

[Black Hand]

Do you have a base line percentage on the tint amount you use with your finishing oil?

I bought the Chambers Traditional Oil Finish - it has a red tint.
http://www.flintlocks.com/parts.htm (the finish can be purchased separate)

See https://www.muzzleblasts.com/archives/vol5no2/articles/mbo52-1.shtml for more information on period finishes.

 

[Kilted Cowboy]

I bought the Chambers Traditional Oil Finish - it has a red tint.
http://www.flintlocks.com/parts.htm (the finish can be purchased separate)

Ok I get it so you do not add any tint to the oil, Chambers oil already has enough of a tint to it. I have heard that a lot of y'all use that oil over the permalyn finish as it appears to be a more natural finish and less plastic. I would like that. Thanks for your time Black Hand. If you ever find yourself in north Texas let me know I owe you some Texas brisket and a cold Shiner Bock
Kilted Cowboy

 

[Black Hand]

Ok I get it so you do not add any tint to the oil, Chambers oil already has enough of a tint to it. I have heard that a lot of y'all use that oil over the permalyn finish as it appears to be a more natural finish and less plastic. I would like that. Thanks for your time Black Hand. If you ever find yourself in north Texas let me know I owe you some Texas brisket and a cold Shiner Bock
Kilted Cowboy

I used the oil as the final and only finish over straight Aquafortis on my rifle (wasn't super premium wood either). This picture is after 11 years without a touch-up (forestock below the nosecap where there was more striping than in other areas).

If I am ever in Texas, I will take you up on your kind offer! Meat, cold beer and good conversation are one of my favorite combinations...

 

[Black Hand]

I presume with the name Kilted Cowboy, you are of Scottish descent. Just curious...