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Tom A Hawk

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Sometimes my biggest challenges involve finding solutions for unanticipated obstacles. Little things that tend to crop up when I'm not looking. I have been less than delighted with the feel of the traditional Lancaster flat grip rail and thought I would try one that is more contoured. I also prefer the feel of the Davis double set trigger over the L + R. However with these choices came an apparent fit problem. The Davis rear trigger is a bit larger and to get clearance I have to move the trigger guard a little to the rear. Now the pin lug interferes with the trigger plate.

I like to hide the forward trigger guard pin under the lock plate and side plate and usually reshape the casting gate remnant to get enough length. However todays challenge required cutting off the original lug fabricating a new one and repositioning it further forward. Another hurdle now cleared.

1680015318409.jpeg
 
Hi,
Rather than doing that, I routinely 1) notch the trigger plate to fit the lug, 2) trim excess metal off the front of the trigger plate and narrow the lug until everything fits, or 3) remove the lug, and drill a blind hole down into the guard under the thick part of the front of the bow. Then I tap that hole, drill a corresponding hole in the trigger plate and mount a counter sunk screw that holds the guard to the plate.

dave
 
If you position the lug too far forward, the lug will get into the ramrod channel.
I don't like to see those triggers way up in the bow like some originals. So I moved the guard up. It had already had the lug cut off for some reason I don't remember. A friend suggested doing what Dave said. I used a 4-40 allen screw. It worked, and I used the tang bolt to hold it all in the wood. I think missing the ramrod hole is why those old original guns have the triggers so far forward in the bow. There isn't enough room to safely get one's finger on the trigger. The trigger would have to be pushed sideways to fire the gun, but the lug misses the hole.
 
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