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Making a Powder Horn: Scrimshaw

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Making a Powder Horn, Part 2- Scrimshaw

Today I have the borders all done and ready to do my panels and more. After five hours though, it was time to quit for the day.
Decorating a Powder Horn is really an individual's own choice. There really isn't a right or wrong, since this is truly a Folk Art form. And from what I gather, it seems that Powder Horns are uniquely an American Folk Art form, though not exclusively "American".
Looking at old and new horns I see so many elements in theme and design that I would like to incorporate into my own work, but not to copy them. That might be why it takes so long to actually design a new horn for me; the space is so limited and there is a world of things that can be done, but the space is so limiting and small. But one common thing that I always seek is balance in design.
My own style seems to incorporate three basic elements: borders, paneled subjects (maps, words, images in a decorated boundary or frame) and various decorative devices.
To begin decorating the horn (I usually never have a specific theme in mind) I always start with decorating around the top and bottom of the horn body. There are a lot of ways to do this, and it is usually determined by the size of the piece. I like my borders to be striking and have an almost three dimensional affect. This is done by using shading. A strong line with gradual shading can add a lot of visual interest, and isn’t very difficult to do.
 

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Part 2- Scrimshawing

Today I have the borders all done and ready to do my panels and more. After five hours though, it was time to quit for the day.
Decorating a Powder Horn is really an individual's own choice. There really isn't a right or wrong, since this is truly a Folk Art form. And from what I gather, it seems that Powder Horns are uniquely an American Folk Art form, though not exclusively "American".
Looking at old and new horns I see so many elements in theme and design that I would like to incorporate into my own work, but not to copy them. That might be why it takes so long to actually design a new horn for me; the space is so limited and there is a world of things that can be done, but the space is so limiting and small. But one common thing that I always seek is balance in design.
My own style seems to incorporate three basic elements: borders, paneled subjects (maps, words, images in a decorated boundary or frame) and various decorative devices.
To begin decorating the horn (I usually never have a specific theme in mind) I always start with decorating around the top and bottom of the horn body. There are a lot of ways to do this, and it is usually determined by the size of the piece. I like my borders to be striking and have an almost three dimensional affect. This is done by using shading. A strong line with gradual shading can add a lot of visual interest, and isn’t very difficult to do.
With some basic ideas in mind I start to design the work on the horn itself. My eraser (or what’s left of it) gives evidence of how much work it is for me to get it right. Everything has to meet-up at the ends and the shape of the round horn can be a challenge. Laying it out can be an very long process…

Nine times out of ten, my design ideas change course as the work progresses. I might have one border design in mind but various things can change that. It might not look right, or the space isn’t enough, or it might look too ‘busy”.
 

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With some basic ideas in mind I start to design the work on the horn itself. My eraser (or what’s left of it) gives evidence of how much work it is for me to get it right. Everything has to meet-up at the ends and the shape of the round horn can be a challenge. Laying it out can be an very long process…

Nine times out of ten, my design ideas change course as the work progresses. I might have one border design in mind but various things can change that. It might not look right, or the space isn’t enough, or it might look too ‘busy”.
With scrimshawing horn, I usually scuff the surface with a 220 grit sandpaper to give it some tooth. Then with my ‘stylus” I start to make the cuts. I use two simple tools, made of a nail in a wooden dowel. The trick it to keep them sharp with a burr, which will do the cutting. And watch the grain because the horn might not want to be cut the way you’re doing it. Turn the work around and approach the cut from another angle. But be careful that the lines meet-up.
 

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With scrimshawing horn, I usually scuff the surface with a 220 grit sandpaper to give it some tooth. Then with my ‘stylus” I start to make the cuts. I use two simple tools, made of a nail in a wooden dowel. The trick it to keep them sharp with a burr. Which will do the cutting. And watch the grain because the horn might not want to be cut the way you’re doing it. Turn the work around and approach the cut from another angle. But be careful that the lines meet-up.
Also, depth of cut is something to consider. Some horns are decorated very lightly,, so that you really cant see what’s on them from a few feet away. For mine, I like them to be seen proudly from a good several feet away, so I make my cuts a bit deeper and sometimes wider.

Note the fringe that comes off the horn as you do the scrimshawing. I rub these off with a paper towel or very fine 3M pad. The fringe will sop-up your ink as you begin filling the lines and make it messy.
 

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Also, depth of cut is something to consider. Some horns are decorated very lightly,, so that you really cant see what’s on them from a few feet away. For mine, I like them to be seen from a good several feet away, so I make my cuts a bit deeper and sometimes wider.

Note the fringe that comes off the horn as you do the scrimshawing. I rub these off with a paper towel or very fine 3M pad. The fringe will sop-up your ink as you begin filling the lines and make it messy.
With the borders all done, the next step (Part B) will be to decide on the theme and start drawing the designs, pictures or words. That is the hard part., coming soon.
 

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After a while the ideas come together and the designs begin to unfold. I wanted to use "Liberty" and "Freedom" on this horn and changed the decorative elements several times. I also developed a new one for on the top. It takes many hours but the results can be very nice.
When it's all done and the ink is thoroughly dry, I take an eraser over the whole area I've scrimshawed to remove any pencil lines. Then a very fine 3M pad to remove any eraser residue.
And then off to my shop where I will drill and tap in the tail staple. Then to mix up the dyes that will bring some color to this horn and finish it up.
 

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After a while the ideas come together and the designs begin to unfold. I wanted to use "Liberty" and "Freedom" on this horn and changed the decorative elements several times. I also developed a new one for on the top. It takes many hours but the results can be very nice.
When it's all done and the ink is thoroughly dry, I take an eraser over the whole area I've scrimshawed to remove any pencil lines. Then a very fine 3M pad to remove any eraser residue.
And then off to my shop where I will drill and tap in the tail staple. Then to mix up the dyes that will bring some color to this horn and finish it up.

Outstanding write-ups!! I've always admired your horns. We need a "Part 3" where you mix those dyes and color the horn! :)
 
Yep, Pathfinder makes it look easy which is the mark of a true artist. Those of us that have actually tried our hands at horn making know for a fact how tough it is and what skills he has! P.S. I would love to see a part 3 about staining and dying horns too.
 
FWIW, any chicken scratching I've tried looked like some kids' chalk sidewalk art - You got skills, Dude !
I decided to try some scrimshaw last summer. My first attempt on bone was worse than abysmal. However, my first bone carving sold in less than 30 minutes. (go figure) I have been experimenting with some antler, bone and plastic. I carved a picture on a mollusk shell with an electric engraver and colored it black and my daughter grabbed it for a necklace. And I thought it was worse than my scrimshaw attempt. Yes these guys have incredible skills. And I have found that patience and attention to detail is far more important to scrimshaw than most hobbies. There was a thing on TV about a guy that carves tree ornaments out of antler and bone. Some of his work was so darn good.

Of course if you are paying $300 for 4 oz of ancient mammoth ivory, you better be good and take your time. One of the scrimshaw guys that I see on line went to a local household auction up in Connecticut.. There was an old billiard table with the leather nets in the corners to catch the balls. Two of the balls were missing from the set of billiard balls. They still brought over eleven hundred dollars. Made from elephant ivory. I have been watching for old pianos to grab the ivory veneers.
 
nice work!
i like, especially, the thing about the shading, and the thing about the three foot distance ... i have a bad habit of 'getting lost in the weeds,' which sometimes works, but sometimes looks a bit 'off' when you look at it from across the room.

thank you for the posts :)
 
After a while the ideas come together and the designs begin to unfold. I wanted to use "Liberty" and "Freedom" on this horn and changed the decorative elements several times. I also developed a new one for on the top. It takes many hours but the results can be very nice.
When it's all done and the ink is thoroughly dry, I take an eraser over the whole area I've scrimshawed to remove any pencil lines. Then a very fine 3M pad to remove any eraser residue.
And then off to my shop where I will drill and tap in the tail staple. Then to mix up the dyes that will bring some color to this horn and finish it up.
PathfinderNC;

Great set of instructional advice.
I just finished my third scrim of a F&I war powder horn representing the 1758 battle at fort Carillon. Took me about 120 hours of scrim prep and application. I always wanted to represent the French side of history so I did this horn representation.

Best Regards
 

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