Making a 100% Jenks lock copy

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Metalshaper

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but look at it this way?? It's giving you LOTS of EXPERIENCE!!! :dunno:
😆

Call me impressed, just the same!!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
 
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The trigger tab moves up and down. The sear tail needs to be pushed toward the plate. How does that work? Is there a wedge on the trigger?
 
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The trigger tab moves up and down. The sear tail needs to be pushed toward the plate. How does that work? Is there a wedge on the trigger?
The trigger has a knife edge (see photo no. 2 in message #33) and the sear has slanted block shape also (shown in message #4). The sear on the Jenks just moves sideways by the trigger pushing on the sear block. I think if you look at the photos I mentioned you'll get the drift.

The trigger works fine on my lock copy probably because the sear spring isn't so stiff as the original. The trigger pull on the original Jenks is probably 8 lbs.

Mike
 
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I've worked on the trigger guard & trigger some more. Not sure how much more filing I'll do on the trigger guard bow, I don't want to file through the silver solder again. It is progressing nicely. I've rounded the tips of the trigger guard strap, the trigger still needs some attention and I have to drill the mounting holes in the strap.
IMG_0288.JPG
It's passable for now. I have to cut the trigger down & knife edge the part that contacts the sear block, also.

until next time, Mike
 
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Not sure how much more filing I'll do on the trigger guard bow, I don't want to file through the silver solder again. It is progressing nicely.
Every black cloud device has a silver solder lining!

"That's not a bug; that's a feature!"

And other aphorisms, as well.

I'm enjoying the heck out of your thread! Thanks for the honest and open description.
 
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I've been working on the Jenks carbine all week, just 3-4 hours per day. I made a nipple this morning, it's used to mount the lockplate to the weapon as in the original Jenks. I made a Jenks nipple several years ago when I bought the Jenks (Making a Jenks Carbine Nipple (Cone)) and I used my sketches to make this one. This one uses the American standard 1/4"x 28 threads per inch threading versus the Jenks 9/32" x 22 tpi threading. The Jenks carbine uses one wood screw and the nipple to hold the lockplate to the weapon.

So here's a photo of the lock mounted using the nipple to hold it against the barrel:
IMG_0293.JPG

I'm having trouble tripping the lock and I made some adjustments to the sear & full cock which has helped some. But it needs more work and re-hardening right now.

Here's another photo that shows the nipple a little better:
IMG_0292.JPG

And finally an overall photo of the carbine:
IMG_0290 (2).JPG

After I figure out the lock problem I'll start shaping the stock and making the brass barrel bands. (that should be LOTS of fun???)

later, Mike
 
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Metalshaper

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Very nice!!!!

I need to get my shop back together ( had basement work done lately ) then get back to building and such.
Your work is inspiring !!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
 
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Very nice!!!!

I need to get my shop back together ( had basement work done lately ) then get back to building and such.
Your work is inspiring !!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
Yeah, you need to get your shop back up & running mate - there's only so many mule ears I can make here.

My work isn't inspiring, it's just persistence.

Mike
 
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I've started making the front barrel band yesterday. Finally got it fitting this morning to the original stock. This is a photo of the original band on the rifle:
IMG_0297.JPG

This is what I have today for the replacement band to be used on my gun:
IMG_0298.JPG
Of course the band is still in its rough state but it fits the stock okay.

This is the larger rear barrel band being milled out using a boring head:
IMG_0301.JPG

Well that's all for now. later, Mike
 
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Well I got both barrel bands to fit on the Jenks carbine and I spent yesterday and this morning shaping the outside contours of the bands.

Here's a photo of the rear band when I started the shaping process, just scribing the outside & cutting off the corners on the band saw :
IMG_0302.JPG

then shaping the outside (on one half):
IMG_0304.JPG

Then to cut to the chase, the finished bands - well okay, almost finished. I still need to file & polish them, but for now they're "finished".
IMG_0306.JPG

later, Mike
 
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Dude and Metalshaper, I'm just pulling your legs. Thanks for your comments & support.

I started working on the buttplate this morning. I had bought a casting several years ago and it wasn't wide enough, so I thought I'll just make one. I bought a piece of 1/4" x 2" material last week and got around to cutting it today - I was working on making the barrel bands late last week.

This is what it looks like right now:
IMG_0307.JPG

I squared up the ends first, then marked the area for the bend & cut that at 45 degrees in the mill. Then I traced the buttplate outline, rough cut it on the bandsaw and bought it close to the finish size using my disk sander. I have to finish sanding to size and then heat it with my torch and solder it with my brass colored solder, then file the outside contours. The original buttplate has no concave area on the inside, it's just flat. It is very nicely made though, I'll try to emulate the workmanship.

later, Mike
 
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Buttplate update: I'm still working on it.

Yesterday I went out & bought acetylene & O2 then soldered the bugger together. This morning I worked on profiling the thickness. I bought a 1/4" brass piece to make this and parts of it are 1/4" thick - look at the tang, it's a 1/4" thick! The buttplate is around 3/16" thick where it meets the tang.

I used an angle grinder & a small belt sander on it and this is what it looks like now:
IMG_0310.JPG
IMG_0312.JPG IMG_0313.JPG

The second photo of the rear of the buttplate is distorted due to the camera angle - they are symetrical at the top. You can see it still has a way to go yet, but it's getting there.

later, Mike
 
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