main spring question

[2172]

About 5 years ago, I re-hab'd an old (1972 vintage)CVA mountain rifle. I replaced the lock with one that a skilled local gunsmith had rebuilt on a CVA lockplate....the main spring on that lock has now weakened to where it won't fire a cap, and I can't get in touch with that gunsmith. Going through the catalogs, I can't see a duplicate of that spring....any suggestions?Hank

 

[musketman]

Both muzzleloader shops, THE TRACK OF THE WOLF & THE LOG CABIN SHOP carry replacement main springs.

You can let them know what you need, they have too many parts to put everything in their catalogs.

You will also need a main spring vise to install the new one, they sell this too.

Here are their links.

http://www.logcabinshop.com/catalog/catmain.html

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/

 

[squirejohn]

Hank: You may need to contact CVA directely. I had to do this in order to replace the fly on my wife's gun. They're in Norcross, GA Phone# 770 449 4687.

 

[2172]

Musketman, Squire John, thanks. I went to Google and looked for CVA and got an outfit 'Black Powder Products" that says it is the successor to CVA. I got an auto response to my inquiry, and am waiting on their answer. I didn't realize that Track of the Wolf had springs beyond the ones in the catalog...thanks for that info. I will also try the Georgia location for CVA...I wonder who they are, if that outfit in Ct. claims to be the successor?
I took the spring out of the lock, and did a very careful measurement. There's a chance that one of the springs in Dixie's catalog is right...only a chance, but worth a trial if nothing else develops. All else failing, I may make up a dispute with the gunsmith who built this lock and ask his help...again, thanks, and keep your powder dry...Hank

 

[squirejohn]

Hank: Very interesting about an outfit in CT being CVA's succesor. If you type in www.cva.com it shows the web page for CVA and it's located in GA. On the first page they have a recall notice about one of their in-lines and list the same phone # I used back in 2000 when I sent them my lock for repair. As I recall they fixed the lock and did some extra work on it and I don't believe they even charged me - It's worth a call. Good luck

 

[2172]

SquireJohn,
curioser and curioser...I got a response from the Ct outfit..e-mail address [email protected] that offerred me the part (I'd found itin the Dixie catalog and had already ordered from them) but the mailing address they gave me was:
BPI Customer Service
5988 Peachtree Corners East
Norcross, Ga, 30071
phone 770-449-4687
perhaps the successor firm took over all of the facilities of the old CVA? I still think that the first response I got gave a CT address for the recall...in any event, thanks for your help. best ,Hank

 

[Randy]

I'm surprised a spring would get that weak in a mere 30 yrs. Perhaps it wasn't hardened properly. It's still modern steel (1095 or 6150) compared to 200 yrs ago and I would probably try to re-harden and maybe re-shape the spring. Kit Ravenshear's book "Simplified V Springs" is a good source of info on how to do it. It's easy enough that I was able to be successful several times. Of course it's easier to buy a new spring and fit it to your lock.

Horse Dr.

 

[tg]

If memory serves me, I believe that Conneticut Valley Arms (CVA) was based in Haddam CT when first started by David Silk over 30 years ago...

 

[frank saloon]

Try to reheat your spring to red (reshape it then if necessary) quench in water. Now if you apply any pressure on it it will break like glass! Reheat it slowly until the oxide layer on the steel look about light blue. If you reheat too much it will go back to the ductile state and will not act as a spring. No enough heat and it will be very hard and springy but it will break. This is the tricky-dicky part! Finding the in between state. The advantage of making a new spring from spring steel stock is that you can use a strip of that same material to make acurate test. Good luck.

 

[2172]

Thanks for all the valued input, especially how to "re-spring" a spring. I pray that the one I have on order works, and I don't have to try that!
As to the spring's life, this lock/spring have only been in the gun about 5 years. I have had 2 Dixie lock main springs give out in about that long a time ...the original CVA lock that this lock replaced still had a performing main spring after 25 years...I'd be interested in learning what others think a "normal" spring life should be..again thanks, Hank

 

[musketman]

I once cocked an American made Charleville musket pre-civil war, it was made in the year 1838 and its spring was just as stout as my reproduced Brown bess, some 155 years after the Charleville was made.

I think the spring should last the weapon's lifetime, but who knows how long that really is?

 

[Randy]

I have an 1864 Springfield rifle (Civil war era) and the spring is still "Snappy" after nearly 138 years. Also had a chance to handle an 1803 Harpers Ferry rifle and I was surprised haw strong the spring was.
I don't think time is the factor, Those old timers knew how to make springs. It also stands to reason that the surviving antique guns would be the ones with the good springs. Why keep the broken ones?
Horse Dr.

 

[No Powder]

O.K. I just read this on the Muzzleloader Magazine hints page www.muzzmag.com To temper a spring and not make the thin parts to soft and the thick parts to hard, melt lead in a container big enough to hold the spring and let it set in the melted lead long enough to evenly heat the spring. Never tried it just read it.
It is listed on other hints

 

[2172]

Interesting about the life span of some old springs...I have a beatup but once beautiful perc pistol that will still fire a cap...I would guess it's age at about 1850....well, the replacement spring I ordered from Dixie came, and, with a little bit of file work on the tit, it fits fine and the lock works just fine.
Thanks to all for all of the support and info: it's amazing what you can learn in this forum. Hank