Made a little more progress on the Verner .32 caliber tonight.

[Sidney Smith]

Got the trigger group in, and drilled and tapped for the tang screw tonight. Its still just a rough in, but she's getting there. Had a little trouble with the tang screw hole as it drilled a little off center, but a few minutes with a mini rat tail file cured that problem. I know I don't need the front screw on the trigger plate, as the tang screw will hold that section in place, but I didn't realize it until after it was in. Oh well, its in there now.

Next thing on the list to tackle will be the trigger guard.

 

[Shot deer]

NICE rifle!!!

 

[Kansas Kid]

Almost extinct.32 cal and the lock is even on the correct side.

 

[Treestalker]

Looking good! Your project looks similar in progress as my 'disabled man's bear pistol' project which I hope yo share pictures of soon. I'm sorry you put the lock on the wrong side, but my wife would approve, Ha!. Keep us informed or of your progress, please, George.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Almost extinct.32 cal and the lock is even on the correct side.

I wouldn't say .32 is "almost extinct". Not as common anymore maybe, but still plenty of people shooting them. And for me, yes the lock is on the correct side.

 

[MSW]

looks good so far

 

[Col. Batguano]

Getting the lock inlet, and the trigger working is one of those milestones in a build. Then getting the gun "out of the slab". You are about to start the fun pert. Wood shaping. Are you going to use keys or pins on this build? It looks like probably pins to me.

I like the idea of small calibers myself, especially for paper shooting. Why burn up all that powder and lead just to put a hole in a piece of paper? And with small charges, like 20 grains or less, it's going to be a very quiet gun. I shoot 25 gr. charges in my 38 and get about 1250 fps out of it, which is plenty enough power to make a hole in paper. Nice & quiet to shoot too out of a 48" barrel. Hardly even need ear protection.

 

[Sidney Smith]

I'm using pins. I've already got the barrel pinned. Pins are easy to install. On this gun though I am going to inlet some little brass circles or some other shape for each pin hole just to dress it up some more before all is said and done.. I've got the trigger working pretty well although I will need to fine tune it some. Next is trigger guard, then thimbles, the nose cap, then buttplate. Just the order I felt like going in this time around. Will do the small brass pin inlays and the hunters star last. There will not be any carvings as I don't have the skill set for that. I build all my muzzleloader to hunt with so prefer more of a plain Jane look over fancy anyway. Just wish I had more time to work on it. This time of year for me is not the optimum for working on muzzleloaders. Too much going on with yard work and all the other honey dos.

 

[Ames]

Well, if you ever get curious about carving in the future, draw some C scrolls on some flat scrap wood. You might surprise yourself.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Someday maybe.

 

[Zonie]

I think some small brass inlays for the barrel pins can add a nice touch. Drill a hole the same size as the barrel pin in the exact center of the inlay and then push the pin out of the stock slightly. Place a tiny drop of super-glue on the back of the inlay and then place the inlay over the pin to position it. (Don't get the glue on the pin or pin hole. Just on the inlay out close to the edge furthest from the pin hole.)
The glue will hold it in place while you inscribe the cut around the edge into the wood using a sharp pointed hobby knife like an Exacto.
When you've completely inscribed the cut several times around the inlay then a light tap with a screw driver handle will break the glue bond loose.

After you've done some of these you might get the 'bug' to do more but don't get carried away or you'll end up with something like my Franklin.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Zonie;

Thanks for the tip. I was wondering how best to install those little inlays. It's so easy a caveman could do it.