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Lyman's Great Plains Flintlock Rifle....Good & Bad??

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I may try that. I bought the GPR that’s not sparking well last year, so it’s not a problem of the frizzen wearing out. I have tried a few remedies but I just don’t get enough spark to ignite the powder charge reliably.


What rock are you using? I quickly replaced the flint-like thing that came with the rifle with an English Flint and have been very happy.
 
I owned one in .54 cal.
I bought it in 2008 , keep for 10 years .

I noticed a drop in quality starting just after I bought mine .
Mostly metal to wood fit , tang area in particular.

When the bore was new it cut patches.
I polished it with bore paste and smoothed it out .

The gun shot well , but seemed too favor 100 grn ffg load.
Cresent butt plate needed a little file work too smooth the edges.

Oh I had to enlarge the touch hole for more reliability, after that there were no other issues .

Great gun for the money,,
Mine shot 6” low out of the box and 25 yards.... file gently!
 
I have several Hawkens including Uberti [2], Jonathan Browning Mountain Rifle, Austin-Halleck Mountain Rifle, CVA Mountain Rifles [2], And a Thompson Center Hawken. My favorite? Lyman GPR. Polecat
 
I don't know if this is "kosher" or not, but I ran a patch heavy with valve grinding paste up and down my GPR barrel about a hundred times; I'd read somewhere that that was a way to smooth out the sharp machining marks that can cut the patch.
 
The valve grinding paste will work and only 100 strokes probably won't hurt. You should verify that you have the sharp machining marks and sharp edges on the lands. Smoothing the crown is something to do if there are sharp edges at the muzzle.

Drilling out to 1/16 of an inch is something most of us find really improves flint lock ignition. I do believe that opening up to 5/64" is the largest diameter touch hole I would drill and I do state that even when the touch hole in my Long Land Pattern is larger. The number drills from 52 to 48 can be used to gradually open the touch hole.

I do believe that making a few turns with a counter sink to break the sharp edge at the touch hole improves ignition. The slanted path to the touch hole improves the flow of heat from the pan to charge.

Notice that there is a theme here to avoid sharp edges.
 
The valve grinding paste will work and only 100 strokes probably won't hurt. You should verify that you have the sharp machining marks and sharp edges on the lands. Smoothing the crown is something to do if there are sharp edges at the muzzle.

Drilling out to 1/16 of an inch is something most of us find really improves flint lock ignition. I do believe that opening up to 5/64" is the largest diameter touch hole I would drill and I do state that even when the touch hole in my Long Land Pattern is larger. The number drills from 52 to 48 can be used to gradually open the touch hole.

I do believe that making a few turns with a counter sink to break the sharp edge at the touch hole improves ignition. The slanted path to the touch hole improves the flow of heat from the pan to charge.

Notice that there is a theme here to avoid sharp edges.
Your excellent comments are' sharp' and to the point! They should' smooth out' any questions one may have!
 
I have several Hawkens including Uberti [2], Jonathan Browning Mountain Rifle, Austin-Halleck Mountain Rifle, CVA Mountain Rifles [2], And a Thompson Center Hawken. My favorite? Lyman GPR. Polecat
At a small gun show before the Great Shutdown, I saw for sale a brand-new in the box, flint Lyman GPR. It had the most beautiful walnut stock, and the private seller wanted only $400. for it. Now I had a percussion GPR in Left Hand, so I wasn't interested enough to buy it, (I can shoot flint fine right handed), but what an investment that could have been. With the new generation of GPR's being close to a grand, imagine how easily I could have sold this one for a nice profit! Oh, well, live and learn. It will be interesting over time to see how the two camps align, the Original Lyman vs. the Pedersoli GPRs.
 
B P Maniac - I love your videos! I have owned the Lyman GPR in .54 caliber with the flint lock for several years and while the rifle is great for the price I did have some issues with the lock and after a year I replaced the original lock with the L&R RPL #05 which is made for that rifle. After replacing the lock it has been a great gun! You really do want the .54 caliber if you can get it because the barrel will be a bit lighter and easier to handle.
 
In the .54 flinter round ball pretty much has all the weight I care to hurl. But, that said, I do also have a .54 fast twist shallow groove drop-in barrel for the percussion model for offhand plinking with thin skirted minies.
 
I've read most of the threads on this website about this rifle. Since there are more and more members here, I'd like to get some more feed back. How do you like the Lyman's GPR rifle?? Its on my radar as a replacement gun to shoot in future video projects.....and...has the ability to replace the factory with a L&R lock if it needs so. I'm looking for a factory gun that will be used in pretty harsh environments where scratching it is a possibility or a probability.
Not interested in custom guns...I won't take a $1500.00 gun in such areas. I'd be on the lookout for a 50 caliber because 3 of my other guns are 50's & that means less moulds, JAG's, etc to buy.
What do you like and what do you "not" like about them...??

Good, bad or ugly....I'd love to hear from some of you that uses them.
Thanks in advance.....
I put together a Great Plains kit in .54 percussion and it was the best shooting rifle I owned. Slow twist shot consistently and very forgiving when changing patch material, lube, or minor load changes.
 
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