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Lyman Great Plains Rifle

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GOT IT! Yep the set trigger is really heavy now. But sure enough, when I pull the front trigger, the lever flies up there and trips the hammer!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH.
 
So I don't "like" the trigger now, but at least it will be usable until I buy a Davis Deerslayer or figure something else out. Good enough for now!!!
 
Just a thought here to add to the madness.

Install the lock and tighten it like you do. Now take a screw driver or punch and reach up inside the trigger well and attempt to fire the rifle in this way. Pushing straight up against the sear bar to find out how much pressure it requires to trip the sear.

Where I am going with this is this. If the sear bar is catching on wood, it will be very hard to release. This would require a bit of wood removal so the sear arm is free and trips as easy as it should.

Taking nothing away from the excellent tutorials above. Just another thing to check is all.
 
So I don't "like" the trigger now, but at least it will be usable until I buy a Davis Deerslayer or figure something else out. Good enough for now!!!
I think the amount of pressure that's needed to set the rear set trigger on a Lyman GPR is about the only bad thing I can think of about those rifles.

You can mess with the rear trigger spring tension to try to lighten it a bit to help out the bad situation but even if you find a lighter setting that reliably fires the gun, the trigger pull will be pretty hard. It's the nature of the beast I guess.
 
Just a thought here to add to the madness.

Install the lock and tighten it like you do. Now take a screw driver or punch and reach up inside the trigger well and attempt to fire the rifle in this way. Pushing straight up against the sear bar to find out how much pressure it requires to trip the sear.

Where I am going with this is this. If the sear bar is catching on wood, it will be very hard to release. This would require a bit of wood removal so the sear arm is free and trips as easy as it should.

Taking nothing away from the excellent tutorials above. Just another thing to check is all.
Yes, makes sense. I did that a few times back when I started messing with it. I need to do it again as I wasn't as "educated" (LOL) as I am now. But it didn't appear to be dragging on any wood.

I'm used to 1911 45 ACP pistols and such where sears and triggers and hammers are all in contact with one another. This was a new concept for me with the sidelocks where the trigger assembly and hammer/lock aren't touching until you do something. I'll recheck as you described above. And thanks for the input!
 
I think the amount of pressure that's needed to set the rear set trigger on a Lyman GPR is about the only bad thing I can think of about those rifles.

You can mess with the rear trigger spring tension to try to lighten it a bit to help out the bad situation but even if you find a lighter setting that reliably fires the gun, the trigger pull will be pretty hard. It's the nature of the beast I guess.
Well, that is great to hear Zonie. I love it so far (albeit all I've done is start the troubleshooting process). Started some rasping and sanding of the stock yesterday too. This is going to be a nice looking rifle (well...if I do my part successfully).
Thanks again for your help and input.
 
I don't think anyone needs to know this but maybe they will see it if they had the same problem as me. My hammer on my GPR was hitting the nipple, but not near "centered". The hammer fell too far to the outside of the nipple (should have been hitting closer in toward the barrel).
I have been shaping and sanding the stock a bit while I thought about how to resolve this issue (and read some helpful comments in this forum).
Anyway, I found that the hammer was rubbing/dragging on the wood on the outside of the lock. Once I shaped that down a bit...problem fixed!
 
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