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Lyman GPR factory finish...add Tru-Oil?

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Hi all,

I have a new Lyman GPR (the factory finished, not the kit). I'm a newbie.

IMG_2175.JPG


The stain and oil on the stock looks fine, and the manual says "the stock has been stained with oil leaving a dull finish. As with all oil finished stocks, rubbing in additional thin coats of oil (Linseed or Tru-Oil) will further enhance the finish and protect the stock."

I know there are plenty of threads and videos out there showing how to finish a stock, so I'm not necessarily asking for a tutorial. I'm just new to this, and not sure what step I should begin with since the stock is already stained and finished.

I have some Tru-Oil, and the instructions have 5 steps:
1) Remove old finish
2) Sand with the grain to remove scratches
3) Apply oil with fingers or a cloth and allow to dry for 2 hours
4) Buff lightly with 00 steel wool
5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 as desired

Since the stock is factory finished, should I begin on step 3? Or do I need to sand first?

Apologies if this has already been answered in a previous thread. I did a search and found several different opinions (which is probably what I'll get in response to this, too!)
 
On an already finished stock that’s in oil you may want to add just light repeated coats.
I keep several bot talks of the ‘original oil finish’ from track of the Wolf. I find it the same or near same as the old Wakegon bay tru-coat.
A few drops on your finger rubbed in and then buffed.
I don’t like to handle the tru-coat as it gets so sticky on a bare hand.
You can add as needed, once a day for a week then once a week, but on finished I oil about one extra every couple of months and when done cleaning after shooting.
 
Thanks for the advice, everyone. And thanks, Phil, for the reminder to remove the metal parts! I probably would have found myself with oil on my hands halfway down the stock when I remembered that.
 
The stain on my GPR seemed dark and muddy to me when I first got it, so I took it down a bit with some alcohol then finished it with a mix of tung oil and Tru-Oil. I'm planning on "improving" the stock contour this winter, and will refinish with a mix of tung oil and mineral spirits.
 
I use Tru Oil on bows and gunstocks, I put a few drops on a piece of tee shirt about the size of a large gun cleaning patch and wipe down the stock with a light coat. In warm weather you can recoat in a couple of hours, less if you put your stock out in the sun to dry. If the stock doesn't feel tacky you are good to go with another coat. I do use a walnut sealer first before I put Tru oil on a walnut stock, same process but sanding back to bare wood between coats.

If you haven't opened your tru oil yet here is a tip to keep it from setting up in the bottle; Don't take off the foil seal, just punch a small hole in it. You can still get plenty of Tru-oil out of the pin hole, store the bottle upside down and the finish will stay usable for a long time.

truoil tip.JPG
 
I use Tru Oil on bows and gunstocks, I put a few drops on a piece of tee shirt about the size of a large gun cleaning patch and wipe down the stock with a light coat. In warm weather you can recoat in a couple of hours, less if you put your stock out in the sun to dry. If the stock doesn't feel tacky you are good to go with another coat. I do use a walnut sealer first before I put Tru oil on a walnut stock, same process but sanding back to bare wood between coats.

If you haven't opened your tru oil yet here is a tip to keep it from setting up in the bottle; Don't take off the foil seal, just punch a small hole in it. You can still get plenty of Tru-oil out of the pin hole, store the bottle upside down and the finish will stay usable for a long time.

View attachment 51139


Never thoughht of the pin hole trick but l too store my true-oil upside down. Then if it does get a ‘skin’ on it, it’s on the bottom out of the way and you don’t get little chunks in your finish.
 
Thanks again for your helpful replies, everyone.

I did three coats of Tru-Oil with 0000 steel wool buffing between each. I waited between 12 and 24 hours between each coat, and then did a few small spots as a final step. To my eye, it looks great, and 100 times better than the factory finish.

I love the satin look that I've seen on some guns, so at some point I might try to figure that out (wax...?). But for now, I'm happy with the gloss from the Tru-Oil.

It's the busy season in my job (music), so I still haven't taken it out for a maiden voyage. I'll report back on my other GPR thread when I do!

Before:
IMG_2185.JPG
IMG_2175 2.JPG


After:

IMG_2261.JPG
IMG_2262.JPG
 
Thanks again for your helpful replies, everyone.

I did three coats of Tru-Oil with 0000 steel wool buffing between each. I waited between 12 and 24 hours between each coat, and then did a few small spots as a final step. To my eye, it looks great, and 100 times better than the factory finish.

I love the satin look that I've seen on some guns, so at some point I might try to figure that out (wax...?). But for now, I'm happy with the gloss from the Tru-Oil.

It's the busy season in my job (music), so I still haven't taken it out for a maiden voyage. I'll report back on my other GPR thread when I do!

Before:
View attachment 52536View attachment 52537

After:
View attachment 52538View attachment 52539
That is a great finish/improvement. Polecat
 
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