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Loose cylinder?

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07Kingpin

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A little while ago I picked up an Armsport 1858 replica.

The gun is older but in decent shape and shoots much better than I expected.

The only thing "wrong" with it is what seems to be a loose cylinder. If I try to move the cylinder from side to side it feels very tight, no noticeable play at all, but it has a little play front to back.

Nothing extreme, and again the gun shoots well and doesn't seem to have any problems cycling, it is just something I have noticed.

I would presume this was either an acceptable tolerance when it was made or is the result of years of shooting and something stretching, working loose, wearing etc.

Is this something to be concerned about?

Is there a viable fix or adjustment?

Thanks, Matt.
 
A little while ago I picked up an Armsport 1858 replica.

The gun is older but in decent shape and shoots much better than I expected.

The only thing "wrong" with it is what seems to be a loose cylinder. If I try to move the cylinder from side to side it feels very tight, no noticeable play at all, but it has a little play front to back.

Nothing extreme, and again the gun shoots well and doesn't seem to have any problems cycling, it is just something I have noticed.

I would presume this was either an acceptable tolerance when it was made or is the result of years of shooting and something stretching, working loose, wearing etc.

Is this something to be concerned about?

Is there a viable fix or adjustment?

Thanks, Matt.
Some gap is required to allow for fouling clearance which is substantial in these revolvers . I have heard any where from .006 to .010 is except-able in open top guns but don't know for sure what are the boundaries. I have two at .008 and they seem to be accurate and do not exhibit any bad tendencies that I am aware of.
If the gap gets much longer than .010 or so the hand contact geometry with the ratchet star is altered an is not good as it is loosing mechanical advantage.
The other disadvantage of too much cylinder play is lateral blast from the larger gap. This is some what mitigated if the chamber mouths are not to heavily chamfered and the barrel forcing cone is cut correctly.
Some folks worry about the larger the gap the more the cylinder has room to slam into the recoil shield and imprint into it thus increasing the gap. The truth is after the first shot the fouling will close the gap and physically reduce how much the cylinder will travel on the base pin or arbor.
Another possible disadvantage to excessive cylinder gap is how effective the hammer can detonate the caps on a clean gun but usually the weight of the loaded cylinder provides enough resistance to make this a moot point. After the first shot the fouling provides more resistance as the weight of the loaded cylinder is reduced with each successive shot.
 
I'll correct myself right off the bat; on the open-top percussion revolvers I'm familiar with, they are indeed the same thing. The cylinder bushing on later revolvers determines endshake.
 
Thanks for the replies.
Using various thicknesses of paper as a pseudo feeler gauge I'd say the gap is appr .006, it just seems like more when you're manipulating the cylinder.
Frame is steel.
 
Thanks for the replies.
Using various thicknesses of paper as a pseudo feeler gauge I'd say the gap is appr .006, it just seems like more when you're manipulating the cylinder.
Frame is steel.

If that's all it is you are in great shape. To get a true measurement you need to hold the hammer off the nipple a little and pull back hard on the cylinder to overcome any forward pressure from the hand. In short the cylinder needs to be in firm contact with the frame at the back on the opening.
 
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