• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Looking to restore a rifle gifted to my Grandfather

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Looks to be a short section of ramrod already in place. Remove it and measure the diameter. You can get blank wood specifically intended for gun rods from Track Of The Wolf, either hickory or ramen will work. Don't use hardware store dowel material, since it's not made to withstand the stress of loading, and the woodgrain may be such that it will break under pressure of use. A sharp broken end of ramrod can impale your hand & ruin your afternoon.
Once you have a proper length of ramrod, yu can determine of the rifle is loaded. When you drop a wooden rod vertically into an unloaded bore, it will bounce. If dropped in and it thunks with no appreciable bounce, it's hit a lead ball & is loaded. There is plenty of info on-line and all over this forum about building a rod to stow under your rifle barrel, and also a longer Range Rod for actual shooting use.

Ramrod tubes usually have a tab running the length of the tube for pinning to the stock. On your rifle, look for areas under the stock where tubes may have been fastened; look for pinning holes in the wood. On many low-end imports, tubes without tabs were often glued in place; look for residual glue . Also, for replacements, be sure to measure the ramrod channel diameter and also ramrod diameter to ensure yu get the right size tube(s).
 
Hey AZBurner...................A question... What is RAMEN wood???
I can sometimes get a kind of a wood from my local salvage store. It's browner than hickory and just as springy and tough as hickory. Also , I've been told it's a foreign wood perhaps from Southeast Asia.
 
@oldwood your last sentence answers your question. It's also spelled ramin. It's actually on the CITES list as threatened so I'm not sure how much of it we will be seeing in the near future.
 
Pete.......Been using ramin wood , and hickory for 15+ years. On the frontier they made r/r's out whatever straight stick from the woods they could get. The way I cull the good from the bad is the same way I would cull the good from the bad , if i was buying hickory from a hickory r/r dealer.
First...look the straight stick over for worm holes, knots , cross grain , and any other defect visible. Next , this might cost you the price of a r/r blank , but better to find out now, if the stick is real r/r material. Do this: Slowly bend the 48"stick about 8" off it's axis and twist between your fingers at least one revolution or more . If no cracking is heard , and the stick returns to it's straight axis , you might have a cantidate for a r/r. The bend -twist test is revealing enough to rule out most defective sticks , hickory or whatever. Give it a try....oldwood
 
Back
Top