Looking at a pawn shop muzzleloader

[jec]

I've killed a few deer with my inline muzzleloader and am hooked but I really love the way the old Kentucky Longrifles look and would love to have one to hunt with. While an original is out of my price range, I'll gladly settle for a nice replica. I found one at a pawn shop for $70, but I don't really know what to look for. It is an old gun, octagon shaped barrel. It is very old looking and looks like it would be a fun restoration project. The outer barrel was a little rusty so it was hard to make out what make it was. The Pawn shop owner said he thought it was Spanish or either Italian made. He said he thought he had read on it somewhere that all it said was Iberia or Iberian or something like that. Had some serial numbers on the upper right of barrel. Any idea of what this gun could be or something similiar sounding to Iberia? Would $70 be a good price for a replica ?

 

[musketman]

I myself, would be very skeptable of this "firearm"...

It could be a non-firering muzzleloader who's sole purpose is to hang on a wall and look real.

Now I'm not saying that real muzzleloaders don't find their way into pawn shops, but the gun could have unseen dangers lurking... Like a plugged barrel, or a cracked stock in the barrel channel.

Or it could be "HOT", many a stolen guns end up at pawn shops.

If you are willing to pay for a nice replica "looking" kentucky long rifle, then go with something like Cabela's or Dixie Gun Works.

Both have them for around $350.00

As for the $70.00 pawn shop gun, I would ask the pawn shop owner if he/she would be willing to shoot it first...

It might be real, but I would rather have something with a guarantee behind it, after all, it's YOU who will be pulling the trigger.

 

[tg]

I have ran across some good sub 100 dollar guns at pawn shops, yard sales and such but you must really know what you are looking at before going that route...some of the auction sites may be a better place to find a used gun and as stated there are some entry level kits around for a fair price.

 

[Zonie]

If your really wanting to go ahead here are some thing to look for:
Is the bore rusted? The outside of the gun is just cosmetic but the bore is critical. If it has a little surface rust that can be worked out with a cleaning jag and some steel wool but if it has pits it won't shoot well.

If you can determine the caliber run a cleaning patch down the bore. Notice if it pushes with a uniform resistance. I once bought a gun with a "ringed" or bulged barrel because I didn't do this. If it has a area where it gets real easy to push the jag thru it's bulged. Dont buy it. While doing this, note if the ram rod or cleaning rod goes down to within about 3/4 inch of the bottom end of the barrel. I have seen these guns on the shelf still loaded.
Does the hammer seem loose or wobble?

If it's a precussion, does the nipple look real and used or is it just a blank piece of steel with no flash hole?
Does the hammer cock to half cock and not move if you pull the trigger?
Does the hammer cock to full cock with a positive sounding click?
Does the trigger pull feel right?
If it is a set trigger will it set and "click" when you pull the trigger? If you cock it to full cock, set the trigger and then pull the forward trigger. Does the set trigger release the hammer?
If you can, pull the barrel and look at the breach plug and the stock wood around the area. Are there any signs or powder there. I once owned a Spanish 28 gage that leaked at this point the ONE time I fired it. I sold it as a "wall hanger only".
These are just the major things I can think of right now, there are more of a more minor nature.
If it passes all the above, 70 bucks isn't a real bad price but just plan on getting a $70 gun.

 

[Don]

I agree with Musketman. You can buy a Kentucky kit for less than $200 bucks and then you have the satisfaction of saying you made it your self. I'd pass on the pawn shop gun.