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Longrifle Broken Wrist Repair

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Long story short, but I had purchased a used 45-cal left-handed flintlock with a Douglas barrel on it, from a seller (on another forum) who had listed it with a “crack in the wrist”. Well when it arrived it was more than just a crack, it was a clean break right through. Even worse, someone had attempted a repair using that thick amber-colored glue like one might affix arrowpoints on with. Let’s just say I got $100 plus shipping charges back from the seller and I only have $200 into this rifle. To me, that’s worth it for a DIY project!

Fast forward to the other day and I got the old screw out that was holding it together. The break isn’t entirely clean, but I removed all of the old glue that I could and started to effect my repair.

From the pictures, you can see that I drill two long holes angled back from the tang and lockplate (LH lock) areas, so they go through the forward end of the break and well past the break into the wrist area. With such long “blind holes” my plan is to use hollow graphite pieces (old broken rod sections) wrapped in fiberglass matting. The hollow tube will prevent any air hole from forming in the long blind holes, plus the tubing and matting are fully compatible, so there will be a full chemical and mechanical bond in the repair area.

The pictures show my plans. I also will strip the stock and re-finish it and thin out a few areas. If the break area cleans up well, I may just leave it with the break showing. Or I may try wrapping it with leather or brass like I have seen before.

Does anyone have any favorite photos of a repair area, with or without wrapping, on a longrifle that they would like to share? Thanks in advance! And comment away ”¦ with the good, bad, or the ugly ”¦ as my hope it to turn this ”˜pigs ear’ (no offense to pigs) into a sow’s purse ”¦ or at least a shootable MZL longrifle, for short $$ to boot!

Repair1_zpsfc01054d.jpg


Repair2_zpsf7088712.jpg


Repair3_zpsb0a21a36.jpg


Repair4_zpsbafaaa9e.jpg


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what kind of dowels are you going to use? Lowes and Home Depot usually carry an oriental wood that is not very strong. Ace hardware sometimes carrys white oak, at least ours does. I buy from Ace when real strength is needed. Of course, you can buy carbon fiber rods on line if you want really strong.
 
frogwalking said:
what kind of dowels are you going to use? Lowes and Home Depot usually carry an oriental wood that is not very strong.
Those shown are bamboo rods, but those were only for layout work and to provide some visuals.

I plan on using broken graphite fishing rod sections (hollow) wrapped in fiberglass mat. These will be significantly stronger and lighter to boot!
 
Flint62Smoothie said:
I plan on using broken graphite fishing rod sections (hollow) wrapped in fiberglass mat. These will be significantly stronger and lighter to boot!
But could be prone to crushing or collapsing in short lengths. My choice would be either a tough/strong wood like hickory or threaded rod. Use a good wood glue.
 
I agree that it's worth the effort to repair the stock since it looks to have nice curl and is already inlet for the barrel and hardware. Saves a lot of work and a lot of money for a new stock. The combination of strong, modern epoxy and the rods should make the stock sound to handle the recoil. I think it is a good suggestion to consider hickory rods instead of hollow sections of a fishing rod.
 
Here is a repair I did for my son. I used acreages and a threaded rod down the middle and it has worked out great. He has been out shooting it as well as carried it hunting last year.

Jim



 
I would choose threaded brass rod instead of dowels. A dowel would be good if you later have to drill through it for a screw or something. But, IMHO, repairing is preferred to restocking and you are to be complimented for taking on the task. I'll have to look into that stretchy drywall tape stuff. I used to use rubber surgical tubing but it is hard to find and expensive these days.
And.....please.....reduce the file size for your images. :(
 
I would love to reduce the file size, but for me it seams that photo bucket has fixed what wasn't broken and broke it. It takes me forever just to copy a file let alone do anything with it.

Jim
 
I'm a big fan of pre-reinforcement after ruining a nice butt stock on my underhammer.
I use hardened steel bushings and dowels.
Bamboo will be stronger and lighter than Hickory! Mike D.
 
Well I should proof read a bit better. LOL It is acruglass, a barrel bedding resin.
I resined the 2 parts and clamped together. After it was hard (24 Hours) I took a drill and drilled from the rear of the barrel tang down the middle of the wrist to about the rear trigger guard pin. Started some resin in the hole and threaded the rod in to the end of the hole making sure to add more resin as I went to make sure the rod was completely covered. The threads were also partly engraved into the wood.

Jim
 
bpd303 said:
I have often thought it would be advantageous to install a reinforcing rod to the wrist area while building a rifle to prevent any cracks. Any thoughts?

If one carefully selects (and lays out) the stock so that the wood grain runs parallel with the wrist, there is a fairly low chance that a crack will develop. Therefore, to install a reinforcing rod is unnecessary.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it..."
 
Good technique in my opinion. That strengthens a break joint substantially .
When I steel bush rifle stocks through the wrist which use through bolts I like the Gorilla glue because it expands to fill all voids around the bushing. It's no good for the break joint though as I much prefer Elmer's Carpenter glue or Titebond. Mike D.
 
To all, Just my 2cnt :grin:
At the grocery store, isle #3, odds and ends section, you'll find bamboo skewers, for making schiskibobs,(meat on a stick thingies). These can be sized to exactly 1/8" by driving thru a 1/8" hole in a piece of thin metal. Drill a 9/64" hole, in what ever, dip in tight bond 2, and drive. Let set, and you have a very strong repair for anything wood! :thumbsup: These things have fibers running end to end, and are very strong. I've used them to make joints in wood furniture, with very good results. I think you could use several in a 1/4" or 3/8" hole with accu-glass to great benefit. They come with a long point, so you can drive them where they don't want to go, but just one too many and you have a split joint. :nono: N O T a good thing!!! Test in an inconspicuous spot! Be careful!

:wink:
sweed
 

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