Long rifle dimensions

[rocullen]

I picked up my old project, as some might know from the Buttplate thread.
Didn't want to contaminate it and derail my own thread.

Years, and years ago, I purchase William Buchele and Shumways "Recreating the American Longrifle".
It came with plans; cross sectional dimensions. I have since misplaced those rascals.
I was wondering if some one would be so kind and provide a few "generic" dimensions.
I aan building a "bastardized" Lancaster. Leaning toward Lancaster but not strictly following the history/architecture.

I would appreciate the;
wrist diiameter
length of wrist....from back of breech or tang to the start of the comb or comb length from buttplate.
width at lock area.
maybe the width of the forearm.

I apologize if this is readily available but I searth(however not to exhaustively) the web and found nada.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[OldRust]

Check out your private messages

Thanks,
O.R.

 

[rchas]

Mark Elliot provides a free template for an early Virginia rifle, which has the same basic architecture as a Lancaster. Early Virginia Longrifle Templates & Layout Guide - Mark Elliott

 

[rich pierce]

I would appreciate the;
wrist diiameter
length of wrist....from back of breech or tang to the start of the comb or comb length from buttplate.
width at lock area.
maybe the width of the forearm.
So, the bold dimensions depend on your barrel diameter and the diameter of the lock bolster.

 

[rocullen]

Mark Elliot provides a free template for an early Virginia rifle, which has the same basic architecture as a Lancaster. Early Virginia Longrifle Templates & Layout Guide - Mark Elliott

I got the jpg, but couldn't download the pdf got error message..

Thanks;

I would appreciate the;
wrist diiameter
length of wrist....from back of breech or tang to the start of the comb or comb length from buttplate.
width at lock area.
maybe the width of the forearm.
So, the bold dimensions depend on your barrel diameter and the diameter of the lock bolster.

13/16" barrel and a Siler lock; looks like .280
So I suppose it's 13/16 + .280+ .280?? Symmetrical thickness on lock side and side plate? 1.3715"

 

[rich pierce]

That’s a mighty thin barrel. You’re basically building a late Lancaster then. Keep in mind there was great variation between Lancaster rifles made by different builders and at different times. A barrel that thin might work best for a Melchior Fordney style rifle.

 

[rchas]

I got the jpg, but couldn't download the pdf got error message

Dang, you're right.... Well, I have a copy on my computer. PM me an email address if you want me to send it to you.

 

[rchas]

I'll email the file later today. Usually the lock and plate panels are the same thickness. With a 13/16 barrel that is going to make for a very narrow wrist. That is ok if that is what you want--if you don't you can solder a piece of 1/16 or 3/32 sheet metal to the lock bolster, then file it so it tapers from full thickness at the rear of the bolster down to nothing at the front. This kicks the tail end of the lock out (like it would be on a swamped barrel) so that the lock panel has to be tapered so the it is wider at the rear in cross-section. You match the taper on the other side with the plate panel. This will allow you to add maybe up to a 1/4 in thickness to the wrist. It doesn't sound like much but it makes a huge difference.

 

[Col. Batguano]

What ever you have, it never hurts to make the web thin. If it's swamped make it 1/16" at the rear. and 1/8"-5/32" in the muzzle. If it's straight make it 3/32" and 1/8"-5/32".

With a thin barrel and shallow overall height you might or might not have to thin your lock bolster thickness. It's my belief that that thickness (1/4") is designed as a compromise and best dimensioned for B-weight swamped barrels. You want the lock panels to be proud to the overall dimensions, but not so proud that it gives the gun a "puffy cheeked" look when viewed from the top.

If you have heavier (C or D weight) barrels, you might have to add material to the bolster to achieve the same look.

 

[rich pierce]

The challenge I see with adding material to the bolster is this: it’s going to move the frizzen pan lid away from the barrel. Then your priming goes bye-bye.

 

[rocullen]

The lock was inlet down to the bolster years ago as well as the ramrod hole being routed and drilled.
Any "problems" arise from the previous work will just have to have a little creative remedy.

I finally came to realization today: I might be in over my head!

However, I have the buttplate, lock, trigger, trigger guard all inlet. I removed a lot of "non long rifle" wood in the wrist and butt area today. It is starting to look like a rifle...however historically incorrect it may be, it'll probably shoot.
It's no longer a square chunk of wood.
I've got to silver solder a tab back onto my trigger guard. When I cleaned it up, yes years ago, I thought I'd just put a screw into the rear tang area, but have decided I'd rather pin it.

 

[rchas]

As an F.Y.I - I contacted Mark Elliott, and he fixed the link to his rifle template.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I didn't realize this was a cap gun. That changes things some. Some.

 

[rocullen]

It's a long story and pretty senseless, but in the future it'll be a flintlock.