Lock tuning

[Chris In SE PA]

I tried to do a search on here to gain some knowledge on lock tuning. I see a million posts saying that it s/b done. But, I didn't see a good one w/examples and pictures. Is there an easy way to search that my technologically challenged self doesn't understand? Or better yet, can someone pont me at a specific video or thread that shows what s/b done to make them work better?

 

[Gtrubicon]

Great post, I’m in the same boat. what lock are you trying to tune? I look forward to the response.

 

[Brazos John]

Me, too!

 

[zerosprk]

Me three!

 

[Chris In SE PA]

@Gtrubicon I have several. 1st is a pedersoli Bess lock.

After that is a large Siler.

 

[FishDFly]

What is the difference between lock tuning and lock polishing?

 

[FPDoc]

I tried to do a search on here to gain some knowledge on lock tuning. I see a million posts saying that it s/b done. But, I didn't see a good one w/examples and pictures. Is there an easy way to search that my technologically challenged self doesn't understand? Or better yet, can someone pont me at a specific video or thread that shows what s/b done to make them work better?

Search for flintlock tuning and Author: paulvallandigham

Paul is no longer with us but was one of the most knowledgeable ML in the United States. Just start reading his posts for a real education.

 

[necchi]

What is the difference between lock tuning and lock polishing?

Some, but not much.
Trouble is when you tell folks to polish the lock, they see the "polish" part, so they buy a buffing wheel and hit the outside and perimeter of the lock plate till it has a bright shine,, then post another thread asking how to fill the gap's,,

 

[Chris In SE PA]

Search for flintlock tuning and Author: paulvallandigham

Paul is no longer with us but was one of the most knowledgeable ML in the United States. Just start reading his posts for a real education.

It doesn't work. He doesn't com up as a member

 

[rocullen]

Jim Chambers talks flintlocks

 

[Jim Evans]

I tried to do a search on here to gain some knowledge on lock tuning. I see a million posts saying that it s/b done. But, I didn't see a good one w/examples and pictures. Is there an easy way to search that my technologically challenged self doesn't understand? Or better yet, can someone pont me at a specific video or thread that shows what s/b done to make them work better?

There are some video's on Youtube, on Flintlock lock tuning, that will show you what to do.
If you don't fell comfortable doing it yourself, Cabin Creek Muzzleloader, in Hallam,PA. can tune your locks.

 

[rich pierce]

Lock tuning is like engine tuning in the 1960s. You do what needs to.be done to fix what’s wrong and get it running smooth. First thing is diagnosis. What’s the problem?

 

[stank]

Check out “the quality flintlock by Jim chambers” on this site.

 

[EC121]

Barring a major functioning problem with the lock, tuning just means to polish or stone all the rubbing/contact point surfaces to a slick finish. If the lock feels gritty after greasing, then it needs polishing. If it functions without grinding anywhere, polishing is probably not needed, but doing it helps with knowing how things work and fit.
Most of the new locks are assembled to a working state(some better than others), but the casting finish isn't always cleaned up on the tumbler and frizzen rotating/contact surfaces. Chambers has 4 or 5 assemblers who do the different locks, and another fellow who grinds the cast springs for them. All are paid by the lock or piece. Jim's locks are cleaner than most and don't need much work.
There is more to tuning like strike angle and frizzen opening angle, but they are more of an eyeball type of work.

 

[FishDFly]

Some, but not much.
Trouble is when you tell folks to polish the lock, they see the "polish" part, so they buy a buffing wheel and hit the outside and perimeter of the lock plate till it has a bright shine,, then post another thread asking how to fill the gap's,,

Makes sense.

 

[Buckskinn]

Do a search of Dave Person's post about lock tuning.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Here is a link showing what I did to prepare and tune a lock that needed a lot of work like products from L&R, Davis, M&G, and Pedersoli. It shows a worse case scenario. Really good locks like Chambers, Caywood, Hollenbaugh, Kibler, and Laubach don't require much or any tuning work. Chambers locks usually just benefit from polishing the inside of the plate and any bearing surfaces on the tumbler, sear, bridle, and frizzen. The top of the frizzen spring is always worth polishing highly where the toe of the frizzen rubs against it. I always polish off any grainy texture from the casting process including casting seams inside and out on a lock regardless of maker. Leaving that cast finish is evidence of lazy or rushed work in my opinion. The thread below shows what I did to bring an L&R Queen Anne lock up to an acceptable standard for me. Portions of what I did may be all that is necessary with your lock.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=60628.msg610320#msg610320
Keep in mind, some commercial locks can be really terrible. I just finished fixing two Pedersoli locks, a Lott and a Bess, that were nightmares of shoddy work. On the Bess I had to add a bronze bushing to the tumbler hole and drill it straight to correct a tumbler installed at an angle. They drilled a grossly oversized hole in the bridle so the angled tumbler would still fit in the hole. I had to fill that hole with welded steel and redrill it. On the Lott, the gap between the pan and frizzen was enough to spill out priming, the sear was mangling the lip of the half cock notch with every shot such that the lock no longer held at half cock, and worse, the sear bar dropped below the edge of the lock plate when in half cock and full. You cannot install a lock like that and have it work safely, yet some hack did and sold it. Tuning a lock really depends on the lock because manufacturing quality varies a lot by maker. I rarely work on other peoples lock's anymore except in special cases because that work is often so frustrating and I can never charge what I should to recoup my time. The lock in the thread above cost $170 but add to that at least $150 worth of work to bring it up to a standard just equal to a Chambers lock right out of the box, and then another $150 or so to make it into what I did. The Chambers lock at $200 is the real bargain.

dave

 

[doubleset]

It doesn't work. He doesn't com up as a member

Try doing a web search for "paul vallandigham black powder lock tuning". A bunch of stuff comes up.

While it helps to have an understanding of the sorts of algorithms and heuristics the search engines use, the major search engines have enough semantics and AI built into them nowadays that if you feed a reasonable phrase to them (or experiment with a few), you'll probably end up with a rewarding list of hits.

 

[Artificer]

Before going any further, I cannot stress enough that you DO NOT use large buffing wheels to polish operating surfaces in the lock!! I've seen WAY too many folks who did that and dished out important flat or curved surfaces and that either ruined the parts or added many hours to fix them. One proud owner who did that to a large military percussion lock actually made almost every part in the lock unserviceable.

When polishing by hand, you can't go wrong using the sort of dull brick red colored Crocus Cloth, as it would take forever to do too much metal removal that would hurt the parts.

The COARSET things I use to polish lock parts are Hard White Arkansas Stones.

Now, if I have to remove lumps, bumps, unwanted sharp edges or rough spots, then I get out the FINE or at most the Medium INDIA stones. BUT, this is not polishing, it is metal removal. When using these stones, you MUST make sure you don't cut too much metal with them.

I do use Plain or Diamond Needle Files at times, BUT this is only in spots where I need to remove a lot of metal. So, for the average home hobbyist, these are not tools to be used until you learn about metal work.

One of the jobs I enjoyed the most in my 26 year career in the Marine Corps was as the "Instructor of OJT's" (Apprenticeship Instructor) on building NM Rifles and Pistols. I really get into the weeds on explaining things, because that's how people learn the quickest and best.

I don't want to sound too much like a grumpy old curmudgeon, but at least two or three times now, I've taken quite some time to explain how to do lock work and reduce and tune trigger pulls, but after putting a few hours into the beginning of how to do it, the person I was trying to help said it was too much for them and decided to pay someone to do it.

Still, I might be interested in doing it, IF it could become one or more "stickies."

But if a person has little or no personal knowledge of working metal by hand, they are better off paying someone to do it properly.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

BTW, when trying to learn lock work and even IF you have one or more Instructors close by, trust me that you WILL ruin some lock parts as you develop your skills. Pedersoli lock parts are ANYTHING but inexpensive, so if one is not willing to take that risk, it's better one doesn't try.

Gus