Lock tuning

[Artificer]

These are what I use to smooth up locks, or similar sharpeners. They are the easiest and best tool I have found to maintain the proper angles.

https://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-PAK4...ords=diamond+sharpener&qid=1646668645&sr=8-12

Those look dandy to clean up cast lock parts.

Gus

 

[HighUintas]

Thank you both for the tips! I've got a ways to go to get my barrel in and then get the RR channel cut and hole drilled, but it's never too early to start planning.

 

[Artificer]

Thank you both for the tips! I've got a ways to go to get my barrel in and then get the RR channel cut and hole drilled, but it's never too early to start planning.

IF you have an assembled/already hardened complete lock, before you go stoning on the full cock notch or sear face, use a magnifier of some sort and see if the surfaces are flat and smooth. If so, you may not need the Hard Arkansas stone.

One thing I find most locks often need is to de-burr or get rid of the sharp edges of the parts. I usually do that using a fine or at most a medium India stone. Machinists call this "breaking the (sharp) edges." That will save undue wear on the lock or your fingers in the future.

You are most welcome.

Gus

 

[HighUintas]

I have a chambers late ketland lock. So, I had planned on leaving the sear and tumbler notch alone unless I find a serious problem, but the sear seems to release the tumbler very crisply operating it in hand. My focus was going to be mostly the finish with some of the other engagement surfaces that are harder for a beginner to screw up.

 

[Artificer]

I have a chambers late ketland lock. So, I had planned on leaving the sear and tumbler notch alone unless I find a serious problem, but the sear seems to release the tumbler very crisply operating it in hand. My focus was going to be mostly the finish with some of the other engagement surfaces that are harder for a beginner to screw up.

Are you going to use set triggers? If so, the feel of the trigger break lies with the set triggers when you set them.

When not setting set triggers or if the gun doesn't have set triggers, the feel of the trigger pull is completely determined by the lock parts.

Gus

 

[HighUintas]

Yes, I have a double lever set trigger. I was planning to use it both set and un set.

 

[Kansas Kid]

The Lansky knife sharpening stones come in many grits and have very sharp edges that work great in the tumbler notches.

 

[Artificer]

Yes, I have a double lever set trigger. I was planning to use it both set and un set.

In the un set position, you will then feel some difference in the trigger pull, after polishing the lock parts.

Gus

 

[Johnny Tremain]

I bought the fastest lock time lock of the time, and then had Mr Rice jewel it.
I left it to someone who knew what they were doing.

 

[Chris In SE PA]

Hi HU,

First on stones, IF you have a local machinist or industrial supply store, it may be cheaper to buy stones there even though the list cost is usually a bit higher than ordering them. However, shipping costs can make them way more expensive unless you order a bunch of stuff at a time.

Stones give you a much, MUCH flatter and precision surface in many small areas of lock parts, where that is super important.

I looked up the McMaster Carr stones and I could not find THE stone that I consider essential to polishing the faces of sears and full cock notches. That stone is a 4" length, 1/4" three square or triangular Hard Arkansas stone (also small stones are sometimes called files). The triangular shape and size is perfect for the full cock notch. DON'T waste your money on the 6 inch length stone in the following link, though. Using this stone with oil to do just a few strokes on the surfaces mentioned will bring surprisingly good results on locks used without set triggers.

Triangle Arkansas File (sharpeningsupplies.com)

I haven't used the company from the link before and this one following, though I find the FINE grade stone in this link interesting if you have to cut metal, say an especially rough or gouged full cock notch.
Aluminum Oxide 4" x 1/4" Triangle File (sharpeningsupplies.com)

I normally buy Norton India (aluminum oxide) stones in Fine and sometimes medium, depending on what I'm dealing with for gun work.

The following article is excellent for information on oiling and especially FLATENNING stones, which you will have to do from time to time, especially on aluminum oxide, Norton India Stones that are used often on hardened surfaces.
Oilstone | Flattening | Cleaning | How To | Woodworker's Journal | Ernie Conover (woodworkersjournal.com)

Gus

Thanks for that advice

 

[Artificer]

Thanks for that advice

You are most welcome.

Gus

 

[Tom Sloniger]

Just stumbled upon this thread while searching for some help with my new L&R flintlock.

This lock seems to work pretty decent right out of the wrapper but seems to need excessive pressure to reach full cock. In other words, very smooth and consistent resistance right up to reaching full cock but then requires excessive pressure to fall into the full cock position…..almost like I need to force it past full travel distance. Any opinion?

It almost seemed to me like the main spring was reaching the end of its range of travel Distance.

I‘m brand new to tuning a lock but I can clearly see how the mechanism operates but just can’t quit put my finger on what is causing the resistance.

Thanks!!