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Lock stuck in stock

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I have two rifles from TOTW, Both are excellent. I bought them in 2002 and 2006. TOTW may have changed since then, I can't say, but I asked a zillion questions etc before i bought mine. I scrutinized every picture and then some. I even went and visited the shop in Minn. (I lived in PA.) It is all you can do when buying on line. That is why I have not bought a rifle on line since then. I have a Fowler Brad Emig built in 2003 that i personally went to his shop to pick up., in Hellam PA. They were expensive back then. Top quality ML's by noted builders were never cheap. ML's by House, Silver, Scott, Edwards, Emig, Martin & others wer all $$$. All of mine cost more than yours did and that was 20 yrs ago, so you did not do to badly. Your rifle has some issues, but can be fixed easily and in expensively in my opinion. Buggered screws can be fixed or replaced, lock mortise can be re shaped etc, you could even refinish the ML if you are so inclined. Hang in there, all is not lost. This is an opportunity to learn a lot, about buying on line, and about maintaining and tuning a ML ! You can do it! Plenty of people with knowledge & experience on the forum who will share with you.
 
Not a bad looking piece; I'd fix what ails it and carry on. Usually a bit of scraping will take care of the jammy lock plate problems. Once you get the lock plate problem fixed, carefully check that nothing is interfering with any of the moving lock parts; you may have to carve away some wood to get full clearance. Also check the clearance between the sear bar and the trigger parts; could be that the trigger is inlet a bit too deeply, and is interfering with the lock as it is cocked; you can decrease the depth of inlet with shims under the trigger plate. If the gun cocks etc. properly with the triggers removed, it's a sure sign of that.
 
The continued responses are appreciated. I've let the lock in along the mainspring, around the edges, and a couple other places. I've had it here long enough for it to acclimate to the humidity and conditions. It falls into place well and no longer binds on several areas during installation and removal. Should be good to go. The posts regarding the process as a learning experience are well understood. We learn by mistake more often than by success. Attached is the J Cook stamp.

In terms of the consumer's responsibility for being aware of what is worth their money, I largely agree with that sentiment. It just does not often play out well for the buyer in actuality. "The house always wins" is an idiom I would turn to. A business is not generally responsible for teaching the consumer what to look for, but striking a fine balance between making a margin and drastically overcharging is their responsibility for the good of the community. Pitching that in favor of too much profit creates distrust and negative sentiment.

Consider a used car, it is the same discussion. Is it truly all the fault of a young woman when she buys from a used car lot and blows the transmission two months later? Is it in the communal interest to respond: "She should have been more knowledgeable."? I know mechanics with decades of experience, who refuse to start their own used car business, having concerns with selling questionable vehicles at premium prices when they know it would be wrong, in order to be competitive in the market space. The established paradigm is clearly "it is the responsibility of the consumer". My sentiment is the scales have tipped in the favor of obfuscation over time.
 

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With the relative ease and reasonable pace of inletting compared to previous work I've done in the automotive field, I will be pursuing building a .50 or .62 smoothbore from a walnut blank with an assortment of parts. I will share pictures during the process on the forum.
 
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