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Lock problem

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This fl had a really hard trigger so I took it apart and polished it a little and lubed it up ,now it’s better but when I squeeze to fire it only falls to half cock, I’m thinking maybe the trigger spring is to stout, if I jerk the trigger it will fire
What you fellows think? C20B1DCF-F86D-4225-AF55-7760B77A66ED.jpeg08D46657-D837-4B55-B9A2-B8AF232EDACF.jpegEC444842-228F-4043-8765-17FAFC7E1B48.jpeg
 
I will speculate that you have a single trigger.

I can't say that I like the looks of your tumbler. It appears that the half cock notch could interfere with the nose of the sear. The sear spring may be too strong. The sear adjustment could be tightened to lift the nose of the sear a little bit so the sear clears the half cock notch. But then it also seems as if the sear is right on the limit to hold a secure full cock.
 
This lock with no bridle is of the least expensive type and getting a good trigger pull is unlikely.
Good pictures though.
 
Unfortunately, those are not the best designed locks and there is not a lot you can do with them. The tumbler has no cut-out for a fly, which is what would solve your problem. The half-cock notch appears to have been enlarged and the edge bent out; perhaps stoneing the edge slightly -without removing or changing the notch--might help. A weaker sear spring might also help. The best solution is replacing the lock.
 
Hi,
Dane has your answer. Your lock has no fly detent in the tumbler so your finger pressure on the trigger is what holds the sear away from catching in the half cock notch. It is not a trivial task to get a light trigger pull with such a lot but it can be done. Polishing is a good first step. Then, with accurate calipers, measure the distance from the lip of the half cock notch to the center of the tumbler axel. Do the same for the distance between the lip of the full cock notch and the center of the tumbler axel. You want the distance for the half cock notch to be equal, or better, slightly less than that for the full cock notch. You can stone down the lip on the half cock notch until it slightly lower than the full cock notch. Your lock also looks to have some sort of adjustment screw on the tumbler to adjust the depth that the sear engages the full cock notch. That should give you a light pull but it will not solve the problem of catching in half cock if the lip of that notch is too high.

dave
 
Thanks guys
I shortened the notch a little more and took some tension off sear spring and now have a surprisingly good trigger
Now if I can get it to spark I’m going to shoot this sucker, it was given to me by a friend that built it in the 70s said he only shot it a couple times
 

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That is not the most secure half cock notch. It will sort of suffice but I would not rely on that half cock to securely keep the hammer from falling.

I do have a couple rifles built for target shooting with double set triggers that do not have a half cock notch. However you can not cock the rifle unless the triggers are set. In a target rifle, there was a belief that there was no need for the half cock notch as the rifle will be shoot very soon after setting the trigger.
 
By removing the under cut of the half cock you have made the lock less safe. At this point you will be able to pull the trigger and release the hammer. It would be prudent to have some one familiar with locks repair or replace the lock.
 
Hi,
All that is important is can you fire the gun from half cock. If you cannot without pulling so hard as to risk breaking the sear, you are fine.

dave
 
Glenn that’s a handy chart. A lock is a pretty complex device and all those parts must work in harmony for best results. How many of us noticed the two parts that aren’t noted on the chart?
 
This fl had a really hard trigger so I took it apart and polished it a little and lubed it up ,now it’s better but when I squeeze to fire it only falls to half cock, I’m thinking maybe the trigger spring is to stout, if I jerk the trigger it will fire
What you fellows think?View attachment 80895View attachment 80896View attachment 80897
I use and recommend a sear lift for the full cock notch which limits the depth of the sear engagement. It looks to me like the sear full cock engagement angle needs some stoning as well. You want a square, even angle on both surfaces that contacts all the way across the sear face width. The idea is to get the sear to disengage from the full cock notch without camming/moving it backwards or letting it creep forward until disengagement breaks the shot. The correct, squared angle, between sear face and full cock will not be able to be knocked off full cock by impact or direct pressure but should break cleanly with no trigger creep. Once this angle in right then the sear lift can be employed to limit sear engagement depth.
Hear is a sear lift I recently put on a side lock that will work on your gun as well.
This mod turned a six pound creepy trigger pull into a 1.5 lbs. creep free let off, that cannot be jarred off , with no main spring reduction .


A sear bridle would be a big help as well to maintain all screw axle positions, rigid to one another.
You might want to see if either the trigger movement or sear are being blocked from their full travel potential regarding catching the half cock notch.
Often times this happens when some one takes material off the full cock notch trying to lighten the trigger pull. It may be that the half cock notch may need to be lowered but must still keep the trigger captive when engaged. If it won't than a new sear is in order to make it completely safe.
 

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,,,,,,,,,,,, and took some tension off sear spring and now have a surprisingly good trigger.
That's all it would have took. And maybe some tension off the sear screw too.
There's nothing complicated here at all, the style of CVA/Traditions lock you have is about the most basic/simplistically built current issue lock available.
You don't need "gorilla" hands to care for or maintain lubrication with these locks.
Oh! And there's a screw in the tumbler! Wait till ya figure out what's THAT"S for,, ;)
 
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