Lock and trigger issues

Discussion in 'Flintlock Rifles' started by tljack, Jun 7, 2011.

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  1. Jun 7, 2011 #1

    tljack

    tljack

    tljack

    36 Cal.

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    I just picked up a Lyman Great Plains rifle. I am curious if there is a reasonably easy way to change where the flint strikes the frizzen. It sparks good but hits about 1/2 way down. I am used to Siler locks and they strike much higher.

    Also this gun shoots quit accurately but the trigger is terrible. I do not have a scale but can say it really takes a lot of effort on the rear trigger to engage the set trigger. Can I lighten this rather than replace it?
     
  2. Jun 7, 2011 #2

    CoyoteJoe

    CoyoteJoe

    CoyoteJoe

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    You can turn the flint bevel side down and set it as close as possible to the frizzen to get a higher strike on the frizzen, that's about all one can do, the geometry of the lock is what it is.
    You can adjust the weight of the rear trigger but it must be removed from the stock. You'll see the flat spring which drives the trigger is held down at the rear by a large screw. Backing out the screw will reduce tension on the spring, making it easier to set the trigger. It only needs enough tension to reliably trip the sear and that is not much. Reducing the pull weight of the rear trigger will reduce the loading of the front trigger, thus reducing the required pull weight of the front trigger and reducing the stress and wear on all of the parts. On this forum it seems lots of people are replacing the factory triggers with after market versions but I've never had any complaint with the factory triggers once adjusted to my taste.
     
  3. Jun 7, 2011 #3

    August West

    August West

    August West

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    I just got my first flintlock and am learning myself, so take this for what it's worth. I got a TC, which is very similar to the lyman, I have been reading everything that I can find about these guns. TC changed the geometry of there hammer so that it hits higher on the frizzen and at a steeper angle instead of straight on. A popular mod I have read about for the lyman locks is fitting a new style TC hammer. I know it requires a small amount of fitting to work. Maybe check around and see if you can find someone that has actually done this mod and they can tell you how well it works. Chris
     
  4. Jun 7, 2011 #4

    StewartLeach

    StewartLeach

    StewartLeach

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    Coyote Joe gave you good advice. Back the mainspring tension and mounting screw out a quarter turn at a time, returning the trigger to the rifle to test for reliable release of the lock sear. When you find the point where it won't always trip the lock, turn back in a half turn or more.

    These triggers really benefit from some polishing on the sides of the trigger pieces with stones or fine emery cloth wrapped around a popsicle stick. Also polish away any roughness on the inside of the trigger plate. Smoothing the camming surfaces that slide past each other when setting the trigger is worthwhile.

    The Lyman trigger comes with a sear engagement screw that is intentionally too short to get a short, crisp trigger travel. Legal Man- the guy in the Brooks Brothers cape- insists on companies protecting us from our own folly. Major hardware stores carry small metric screws........

    White Fox
     
  5. Jun 7, 2011 #5

    ebiggs1

    ebiggs1

    ebiggs1

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    This is the easiest way to help a Lyman flintlock. You don't need the leather wrap you can use another piece of leather.

    [​IMG]

    But this is the best way to correct the Lyman lock.

    [​IMG]

    It involves replacing the cock with a “new” style from Thompson Center. :wink:

    The trigger's fix is replacing the Lyman trigger with a Davis “Deerslayer”. :thumbsup:
     
  6. Jun 8, 2011 #6

    Trot

    Trot

    Trot

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    Like Coyote Joe says, put the flint bevel down, if it sparks good don't worry about it. I have a Lyman Trade rifle, yes the flint hits a little low but it sparks as reliably as any lock I have had so I leave it alone.
     
  7. Jun 8, 2011 #7

    tljack

    tljack

    tljack

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    First of all, thanks to all of you for trying to help me out! :bow I took the trigger assembly out and backed the spring screw out a bit and reassembled it. It would not work at all. I tightened it up a bit until the lock worked. It is still pretty tight or should I say "hard to pull".

    At this point I am thinking I will shoot it a bit more and see how it does, (so far pretty good) If I decide I like it I think I will see about buying a better trigger. I see in the manual they say they have made it so you can not set it to light. No doubt to appease their slimey lawyers. Otherwise I will dump it and write it off to experience and not buy anymore stock guns.
     
  8. Jun 8, 2011 #8

    ebiggs1

    ebiggs1

    ebiggs1

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    . 

    :hmm: Not only is the Lyman a good rifle with the mods I recommended to you, it is a very good gun, as good as anybodies. The mods are not expensive and well worth it because Lyman barrel is well worth it. :thumbsup:
     
  9. Jun 8, 2011 #9

    Rifleman1776

    Rifleman1776

    Rifleman1776

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    The bevel up or bevel down question is one of those never ending discussions. Try both and use the method that works best in your gun. Striking half way down is not necessarily bad. If it works, it works. My fine Rev. period long rifle with a Siler lock is unfailingly reliable and it strikes half way down. Yes, to get that trigger worked on or replaced.
     
  10. Jun 8, 2011 #10

    russecv58

    russecv58

    russecv58

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    although i dont have one on my rifle, i have read on other posts about the Davis "deer slayer" trigger setup and it sounds like an easy upgrade at a decent price. good luck :thumbsup:
     
  11. Jun 9, 2011 #11

    Jumpshot

    Jumpshot

    Jumpshot

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    ebiggs, what did you need to do to that T/C cock to make it fit the Lyman lock? I just ordered a Lyman Deerstalker and I'm already thinking of ways to fiddle with it before it even gets here.
     
  12. Jun 10, 2011 #12

    ebiggs1

    ebiggs1

    ebiggs1

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    It is only the matter of one being SAE and the other metric. A small three corner file is all that is needed to make a good fit. Try and fit.
     
  13. Jun 10, 2011 #13

    Jumpshot

    Jumpshot

    Jumpshot

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    Thanks.
     

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