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Loading an 1858 for accuracy?

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brewer12345

40 Cal
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I shot my new 1858 36 cal yesterday for the first time and since this was a "learn how to load and shoot the thing" I got 5 cylinders out before the light faded and didn't worry too much about groups. That said, I would like to do what I can to get tight groups with this revolver and I have zero cap and ball experience. So what do you do that improves accuracy? I will need to fiddle around with different charges and powders, and I loaded powder, then a lubed wad (homemade with 50/50 crisco and beeswax), then the ball. Rammed the ball down as much as I could with the short loading lever (Sheriff model). I got the shaved lead ring, so I know I got a good seal. Lubed the cylinder pin and face to keep things moving freely. But any suggestions from here are welcome. The pistol seems to shoot low and left, but I don't want to fiddle with the sights until I figure out how to get a good group.
 
I can offer a few thoughts on the subject. 1 - While we don't know your expectations and intended range however the short barrel may not offer great accuracy as compared to a 8". 2 - If not cleaned, accumulated fouling in the barrel may result in progressively deteriorating accuracy by the 30 shot ( 5 cylinders ) mark. 3 - With conventional barrel lengths I get excellent groups by concentrating on light to medium seating pressure that is consistent between chambers.
 
I have a used Pietta 1858 (steel frame)
I get the best groups with 30 gr 3f, no wad, .454 round ball, bees wax\olive oil cap over ball.
I have 2 cylinders, and the original factory cylinder is more accurate than the third party spare.
 
Hadn't thought of seating pressure as a variable, but that makes a lot of sense. Will have to pay attention when I start trying to shoot this thing for accuracy.
 
Most of us shoot 44's rather than 36s but the basics of accuracy are the same. With a revolver there are two primary elements of accuracy. The first is the accuracy of the firearm. The Sheriffs model won't necessarily be less accurate than a long barrel. Accuracy will depend on finding the best load, powder and tuning of the action. The second element is the skill of the shooter. To get your best accuracy starts with finding the best load. That means shooting from a rest to see what the revolver is capable of doing with different loads. Once you do that then you can change the sights as much as possible on the revolver. There isn't much that can be done on the typical 1858 without changing the sights. Some length can be added to the front if it shoots high. Minor filing to the rear sight grove can also be done. Good luck. The 1858 .36 is a fun gun for target and small game shooting.
 
Most line shooters shoot .36 versus .44, it's the caliber of choice.

If you are seating the balls with the loading lever on the pistol, you really are not going to have much control with seating pressure on the balls.

Get a pistol loading stand. Look in the Classifieds, there is a nice one there.

Most line shooters use a revolver cylinder loading stand. A good one is available from Powder Inc. Makes loading a lot easier.

Try 20 grains of 3F, 10 grains of Cream Of Wheat and seat the ball. Cream of Wheat does not compress when seating the ball, corn meal compresses. Put a dab of lube on top of the ball. You want the ball as far out in cylinder as you can get it, goal is to minimize the jump going into the forcing cone.

Some folks sear by using wads, don't know any line shooters who use them.

"The pistol seems to shoot low and left". Try lowering your hand on the grip and see if it starts to shoot higher.

If the pistol shoots high, raise your hand as high on the grip as you can get it. With some pistols, the hammer will be touching the web of your hand to bring it down on the target.

Get a pistol cleaning rod, jag and .36 brass brush. The brush will clean the forcing come where the jag will not.
 

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