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Lining material for 1700s greatcoat?

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rich pierce

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I’m hand sewing a greatcoat, using heavy gray coat-weight wool. I want to line the body. I have quite a few yards of white shirt-weight linen.
I could A) use the white linen; B ) dye the linen gray or brown and use it or C) buy some lightweight wool for lining and thus have even MORE fabric on hand.
 

kje54

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I’m hand sewing a greatcoat, using heavy gray coat-weight wool. I want to line the body. I have quite a few yards of white shirt-weight linen.
I could A) use the white linen; B ) dye the linen gray or brown and use it or C) buy some lightweight wool for lining and thus have even MORE fabric on hand.
When you say "greatcoat" what are you referring to? Do you have a picture?
 

kje54

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Ah, a late 18th century Coachman's overcoat, box coat, watch coat. Got it.
Linen would be fine even cotton or silk if you're well to do. I frequently use rayon in place of silk, the only way you can tell the difference is to burn the fabric not that rayon burns like polyester, rayon is made from cellulose not petroleum.
 

kje54

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I think linen it is then as I have plenty.
Here's another possible inner lining suggestion. Unless you opt to historically freeze to death in your wool, linen lined coat you might want to consider a modern windproof, water repelling layer in between, Polartec, Gortex, whatever........ Been there, done that. Even a good horsehair interfacing would work and be more historically correct. Granted most modern "horsehair" interfacing is not all horsehair, it even comes fusible.
 

Jay Templin

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When I worked at Colonial Williamsburg, they made me a fantastic wool greatcoat lined with wool crepe. If I was standing somewhere on a cold day or night, it was the most amazing coat ever. Much too warm to wear while I was actually *working* though!
Jay
 

rich pierce

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Rich, you certainly chose a magnificent project. Can't wait to see your finished garment. Always greatly admired these coats.
Bill, I intend to hand sew a complete suit this year - breeches, waistcoat, and frock coat from the same bolt of wool. This greatcoat project with thick fabric and simple construction is good practice. If seams are a little imprecise it won’t show like it would on more complicated clothes.
 

Brokennock

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If this turns out like your metal work, guns and such, it will be a masterpiece worthy of a museum or educational center.
I greatly look forward to seeing it complete.
 

tenngun

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Early nineteenth century coat, but I lined mine with a light wool tartan plaid. The extra layer does wonders for the coat ant keeps me warm to zero(coldest I’ve been in it and it was very warm). You can see the tartan peaking through.
Hanson and wilso show several coats with wool tartan lining
06726D97-659C-440A-BD40-29395F441E0F.jpeg
 

TNsourdough

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You're an inspiration! Just tell me whose pattern you are using so I can get mine started...and finished before the cold weather goes away.
 

rich pierce

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This is the pattern I’m using. The book is really good and has many patterns in it that would need to be laid out on paper.
I added optional pockets which add a lot of work. Maybe next time I’d skip that.
 

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tenngun

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This is the pattern I’m using. The book is really good and has many patterns in it that would need to be laid out on paper.
I added optional pockets which add a lot of work. Maybe next time I’d skip that.
Don’t skip the pockets. One for the looks most great coats had them and two they are so handy. Should you be in cold weather all the little stuff like fire kit, smoke, general sundries you might stuff in a belt bag go in those pockets real handily.
 

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I’m hand sewing a greatcoat, using heavy gray coat-weight wool. I want to line the body. I have quite a few yards of white shirt-weight linen.
I could A) use the white linen; B ) dye the linen gray or brown and use it or C) buy some lightweight wool for lining and thus have even MORE fabric on hand.
Hi Rich,

I have an UnCivil War Great Coat with a long cape like that, though the collar is a bit different. Since I LOST most of my resistance to cold from a tour in Somalia and froze to death in Summer in California after I came back, I ordered mine with a full thickness wool lining. I was amazed how heavy it made the coat and it was too much for all but the very coldest of days.

If you are making a "suit" made of wool coat, waist coat and breeches and unless you are going into the Antarctic with the overcoat, I'd strongly suggest you stick with a linen lining. Grin.

Gus
 
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