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Lee molds, why I like them.

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Greg_E

40 Cal
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Just finished a session of casting, one that I've used before, one that was brand new a few days ago. Cleaned, smoked, heated on a hot plate while the lead came up to temperature. Cast slightly over 100 of these. 1125222210.jpg

And only had this much "waste"
1125222213.jpg

Made about the same amount in the 320 grain size, very similar amount of "waste". It's nice when things just work. Only issue I have is the sprue plate on the 320 loosens after a few rounds, I need to drill and tap a set screw to stop that from happening.
 
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I have a custom from Accurate that is also aluminum, and also just as easy to get good results. I have a few other molds, both steel and aluminum from two other companies, and neither are as easy to get good results. The steel one is a 4 cavity and makes my wrist hurt after about 100 bullets.
 
I wouldn't say "fascinated", just that they work well.
I have a dozen Lee molds, or thereabouts, in different calibers and bullet type. Some Lyman molds, too. I also have some old fishing sinker molds that had been my Dad's. They are probably 60 -70 years old, maybe older. I don't know who made them, but I still use them whenever I need more sinkers.
I recently purchased another Lee round ball mold in .480. A somewhat odd caliber that I wanted to try in a tight bored .50.
The new mold can cast 6 balls at once. Once the new mold was cleaned, smoked, and heated up, the casting went so well that I had 124 balls in no time at all.
I do my casting in my barn with all the doors wide open for ventilation. I usually get a breeze blowing in one door and out another.
 
I like Lee rounball molds and have used them for many years. I do not like their bullet molds though as the blocks are too small and do not deliver consistent diameters/weights like a heavier iron mold will.
 
I own Lyman/Ideal original steel molds. They work fine, but take more time to heat up etc. I also have a few LEE molds for my "unmentionable" lever guns, because they are "tumble lube" and make that process simple and fast. :dunno:
 
I have some steel moulds for modern pistol calibers and some Lee moulds for some modern pistol calibers too . All the muzzle loading balls and minies have Lee moulds. All the moulds work well for their intended purpose but I like the Lee's for their before mentioned conveniences.
 
As I mentioned, I own both orig Lyman/Ideal molds and LEE molds. I will not pay the prices for the Lyman/Ideal style molds anymore. The LEE molds work fine for what I am doing etc and they are convenient and so much less expensive, it is ridiculous. From now on if I need another mold, It will be LEE.
 
My Lyman 4 cavity is really hard to get good results. But the same shape (again Lyman) in a single cavity with hollow point works fairly well if I run things HOT! So much better that I'm probably going to grind a spare pin to make the flat nose version and just cast singles. I turn out more from the single than I do from the quad. I also have a couple of NOE aluminum molds, one is for 25 cal pellets, still can't turn out a batch, another for 357 which is sort of OK with the flat pins, but difficult with the hollow pins. I wish Accurate made hollow point/base molds.

I do want to find some different shapes for my Hawken, a hollow base shape might be interesting. Or a REAL with a hollow point.

I should also add that I think I want a PID controller on my pot. I got an extreme spread of approximately 3.5 grains difference over the entire batch, and I know that's from temperature changes in the lead and the mold. The 320grain batch was a little more consistent, more lead to heat the mold faster.
 
I have lots of them myself, also. They are great moulds, and work well if not abused.
I drill, and tap mine for 6-32 set screw, on the sprue cutter swivel pin, to hold it from coming loose. Although this is not as much of a problem on the newer molds with the left hand sprue cutter threads.

Remember "smoke em if you gottem".

Dave
 
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