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Knife forging questions....

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firestick

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Anyone used a spring pry bar for forging a Bowie type knife? If so how did it turn out? I also have a nail puller left over from my carpenter days before my back decided to call it quits. Lastly what are some scrap mild steel items you have used to practice forging with?
 
You are always better off using a known steel before possibly wasting time and effort on a piece of junk steel. You can more easily find out the best way to heat treat it if you know what you have. That said, there those type of people that enjoy the risk and challenge, but good blade steel is not too expensive.
 
Wick is right, good blade steel is cheap enough so it makes sense to purchase a known alloy. If your looking for practice try forging non-knife objects that don't require heat treatment out of whatever steel happens to be available, lots of neat little trinkets you can build and improve your skills.
 
+You guys are way too serous about this stuff. Sometimes it is just fun to bang something out. I was a carpenter for a LONG time and enjoyed working wood. Yes nice hardwoods were fun to use and of course made great projects when done right but then again I made several things from pallets. WHY? Just because it was fun to turn nothing into something. Some of it turned out so well folks wanted to buy it when I made it for MYSELF!! Sometimes using what you have is a great journey rather than taking the beaten path and buying.
 
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As my hardening and annealing methods are crude I doubt I would get any benefit from buying Blade steel.
here's a couple I banged out.
One is a file the other an old machete.
Have used anything from Mild to god knows what.

P1080373 (2).JPG
Also made about 1/2 of the helms and weapons on this rack as well.
Personally I would no longer use mild steel but anything else is fair game.
25175_1447016976239_362600_n.jpg
I reckon old blades make good knives.
I intend to try old mower blades. I have made gun parts from them.
That stuff is tough as! Reckon it would make a good blade.
 
Thanks Firestcik
Reo bar and wire cable can make very interesting pieces as well as providing forging practice.
Also always wondered how 2 stacks of carbon steel hacksaw blades would look forge welded into a chevron pattern would turn out.

Just start banging stuff.
Carpenters are good at that right?
 
Thanks Firestcik
Reo bar and wire cable can make very interesting pieces as well as providing forging practice.
Also always wondered how 2 stacks of carbon steel hacksaw blades would look forge welded into a chevron pattern would turn out.

Just start banging stuff.
Carpenters are good at that right?

Double burner forge is on its way thanks to my older sister who thinks I need to add to my hobbies. 😁
 
Forge is here and refractory lining is dry. We fire it up tomorrow after hooking up the hoses and checking for leaks. I think the first project will be heating up a rail spike cut 90% in half then folding it over and welding it together (or try welding it together). I'll need some practice hammering with my cross peen hammer and my 4#'r. Only have a heavy gauge hunk of rail track to beat on for now. Probably 20" long and weighs 70-80 pounds. Have to wait a month or 2 to get a decent anvil for actual shaping and such.
 
Sounds like you know what you are doing but just remember to bring it up slow. If memory serves me correctly 250c and 450c is where a lot of chemically bound moisture is released so it is best to approach slow and hold these temps for a bit longer to reduce cracking or worse.

Any pics???
 
I plan on firing It for a few minutes on a lower heat several times letting it cool between firings. It has sat for 3 days inside in my hobby room so I confident I will be ok. I am thinking 30 secs at a time at first. Decades ago I had an Inc incident with lead and a DROP of water. Let's just say I am overly cautious with high temps and moisture now.:rolleyes:
 
Only have a heavy gauge hunk of rail track to beat on for now. Probably 20" long and weighs 70-80 pounds.
Are you mounting your rail on end? The greater mass directly under the hammer face transfers more energy to the workpiece; these are called "post anvils," their only drawback is the face not being hardened.
 
010.JPG
Strap this into a chair-shaped (by you & chainsaw) large log section of correct height and voila! instant anvil with stand. Note that the thickest part of the rail is still larger than the hammer face...
 
Are you mounting your rail on end? The greater mass directly under the hammer face transfers more energy to the workpiece; these are called "post anvils," their only drawback is the face not being hardened.
Just flat on my work bench at this point. Never really needed to beat hard on anything but that is about to change.😁
 
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