Kibler SMR flint size?

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JonBishop

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Hello,
I have ordered a Kibler SMR that won’t be here for a couple months. I would like to know what size flints are needed for this lock. Emailed Jim Kibler flintlocks but haven’t received a response. Been three days. Hope someone who has one can chime in.

Thank you, Jon
 

Banjoman

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The jaws of Kibler locks don’t have teeth or serrations on them?
Are strong springs common on them also?
I have no experience with Kiblers and that’s why I’m asking.
 

simonbeans

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Professor flintlock. I totally disagree with your assessment of Kibler Locks. Other then the lack of jaw serrations, they are almost the best available.
 

PathfinderNC

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It is. Killers lock have a tendency to break flints. Think I'm gonna lighten the frizzen spring. Might even tweak the cock a bit. Wish the jaws had some teeth or serations on them.
This is NOT true. Perhaps it may have happened to you but I have never had that issue nor have heard about it from anywhere else. The issue, I would suggest, is not that Jim’s amazing locks are breaking the flints but that you are doing some wrong or using bad flints. Don’t blame others for your mistakes.
 
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oldwood

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Some flints that are in use today and yesterday , need a little TLC . How this is done to give maximum service has to be learned , through experience. Flint position in the jaws of a hammer , is one of the important issues causing short flint life and damaged frizzens. English and French flint are still the standard ,but again , the right size flint , a quality ,well designed lock ,and so many folks don't lubricate Frizzen bearings , springs , where they ride on the frizzen lobe , and tumbler bearings , and mainsprings. All these things can make for good , or poor ignition.............oldwood
 

bud in pa

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I have taken the hammer off of my flintlock and separated the top and bottom jaws. I secure them in my vise and with a center punch dig up teeth on the flat surfaces. I just tap the center punch carefully. works for me.
 

Osseon

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I have always heard Kibler used the best locks. Been thinking about getting a Kibler kit because of their reputation for quality.
They are very good kits, most people here will vouch to that. Look at the gun building segment of the forum and you'll see a lot of people sharing tips on building them.
 

oldwood

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Another way to enhance the ability of flint hammer jaws to hold onto the leather covered flint...... File shallow grooves in the top and bottom jaws. And don't forget to cut a vee out of the flint leather where the hammer screw touches the rear of the flint leather. That allows a tiny bit of clearance , so the flint can sit as far back in the jaws as it can. And last , tighten the jaw screw max tight. Lube the jaw screw threads so it can be tightened to do it's best job. One more tip , most top jaw screws have too narrow of a screwdriver slot . Open the slot up , so the driver used , fits to the bottom of the slot. .........oldwood
 

Paul Fieret

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The jaws of Kibler locks don’t have teeth or serrations on them?
Are strong springs common on them also?
I have no experience with Kiblers and that’s why I’m asking.
Jim's locks are considered the best in the industry. I build his rifles on commission based solely because they are of such high quality I never have any customer complaints and they shoot great!
 

James Kibler

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It is pretty much standard procedure for original locks to have teeth raised on the cock and top jaw. A graver works for this as would just about any hard piece of steel. You just drive it in at an angle to raise a tooth. We don't supply them with this done as it would add a fair amount of hand work. This is easily done by the builder, though. Locks you may have seen with serrations cast into them aren't historically correct. If you don't want to add the teeth, just tighten the top jaw screw real tight and you'll not have much of a problem. Occasionally you might with a weird flint, but by and large, it will work fine.

Thanks for the compliments on our lock. I would discourage you from making any modifications. I can honestly say, it is a fantastic lock. I believe it to be the absolute best available. It's very historically correct, made with precision, extremely fast and relatively easy on flints given the strength of the springs. Strong springs are a good thing!!! This is a significant contributor to the lock speed.

If you are having any troubles, don't hesitate to contact me directly, as I'm more than happy to help.

All the best,
Jim
 

Banjoman

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Thanks! That clears things up. I kinda suspected as much. Still learning.

Saving $$$ for a Kibler now.
 

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