Kibler quick ship on the way!

[LME]

Such is life, this kit took much longer to complete than I anticipated. Got to pinning the nose cap last winter and life got busier. I could've done better with the pinnings as is apparent in the photo but they will stay as is because I like it and that's all that matters. This was my first time building and it was a great learning experience to gauge whether I'll ever do it again. If I do I know what to improve upon. Happy to show off that it is now completed!

View attachment 269643View attachment 269644

I am not into flintlocks but I truly love that stock! I just may buy me a Kibler flintlock kit just to get the stock!

 

[TDM]

I tried to stay as close to the finishing process as Jim demonstrates in his very helpful videos. The stock turned out exactly as I hoped because I didn't want a dark finish. Here's what I did to achieve the results shown.

Stock:
- 2 applications of Jim's Iron Nitrate (dried, heated, and wet whiskered after each application)
- 8 coats of Tried and True (24+ hrs drying between just because of my work schedule and the house atmosphere)
- 2 coats of Minwax special dark paste wax (tried this on some scrap wood first and liked the way it brightened the finish, otherwise the stock looked great with just T&T albeit more of a flat finish)

Barrel & Lock:
- Laurel Mountain Forge rust brown & degreaser. Followed Jim's demo's and the LMF instructions, no more, no less

Brass:
- Jax Brown. Followed Jim's demo's and the Jax instructions, no more, no less

Turned out great! Very nice.

 

[EC121]

The .58 is the pick of the litter. It is the lightest and best balanced of all the colonial rifle calibers.

 

[zerosprk]

Nicely done, first time or not!

 

[Beaverman2]

Now that is a handsome rifle!

 

[Ed Pilkington]

Well done!

 

[flatcreek]

Jim mentions in one of his videos the lock screw not threading and give his explanation and fix. Basically make sure the barrel is back and down and if that don't help run a tap through the stock into the lock and chase the threads.

 

[blackeagle]

Jim mentions in one of his videos the lock screw not threading and give his explanation and fix. Basically make sure the barrel is back and down and if that don't help run a tap through the stock into the lock and chase the threads.

Yeppers! That plus an email to them last year got everything squared away. Anytime I hit a snag their team was extremely helpful via email and it always kept my progress on track!

 

[GriscomRun]

I tried to stay as close to the finishing process as Jim demonstrates in his very helpful videos. I didn't want a dark finish and I'm delighted with how the stock turned out. Here's what I did to achieve the results shown.

Stock:
- 2 applications of Jim's Iron Nitrate (dried, heated, and wet whiskered after each application)
- 8 coats of Tried and True (24+ hrs drying between just because of my work schedule and the house atmosphere)
- 2 coats of Minwax special dark paste wax (tried this on some scrap wood first and liked the way it brightened the finish, otherwise the stock looked great with just T&T albeit more of a flat finish)

Barrel & Lock:
- Laurel Mountain Forge rust brown & degreaser. Followed Jim's demo's and the LMF instructions, no more, no less

Brass:
- Jax Brown. Followed Jim's demo's and the Jax instructions, no more, no less

I really like the look of your rifle. The kind of finish I desire.
I have a wonderment tho -- what would be the change in color if you finish in permalyn ??

 

[blackeagle]

I really like the look of your rifle. The kind of finish I desire.
I have a wonderment tho -- what would be the change in color if you finish in permalyn ??

I tried LMF Permalyn and Tried & True Varnish on some scrap wood Kibler sent. This isn't exactly the same final process I used on the stock but here is a comparison pic - LMF on the left, T&T on the right. Process used here was two coats Aqua Fortis (heated after each coat), one layer LMF honey maple stain, one layer varnish (LMF on left, T&T on right). This pic was what helped me decide to move forward with T&T.

Couple notes - I decided to not use the LMF honey maple stain on the stock. After this pic I added a second and third layer of LMF permalyn and T&T varnish and then paste wax. with the added layers and wax they were pretty darn close in finish (especially once the paste was added and shined).

 

[GriscomRun]

Eagle, where can Tried and True be purchased ? Not listed on Jim's site or LMF. Which of their products did you use ? I ask because I'm sure there are several and I would like to get the same finish as you. I like the image on the right. Thanks for helping.
THX, Paul

 

[blackeagle]

Eagle, where can Tried and True be purchased ? Not listed on Jim's site or LMF. Which of their products did you use ? I ask because I'm sure there are several and I would like to get the same finish as you. I like the image on the right. Thanks for helping.
THX, Paul

Got a pint on Amazon. Search for tried and true varnish and it should be in the first few listings if not the first. Shipment arrived fast and no spills. Planning to strip and refinish my breakfast nook table to erase an acetone spill, and work a SMR rifle kit after Christmas. There will be more than enough left over even after these projects.

 

[GriscomRun]

Got a pint on Amazon. Search for tried and true varnish and it should be in the first few listings if not the first. Shipment arrived fast and no spills. Planning to strip and refinish my breakfast nook table to erase an acetone spill, and work a SMR rifle kit after Christmas. There will be more than enough left over even after these projects.

Ok. It’s called varnish oil. Looks like tan paper label. Shaker style varnish, right ?

 

[blackeagle]

Ok. It’s called varnish oil. Looks like tan paper label. Shaker style varnish, right ?

Bingo, that's the stuff. I also used it on a speed loader and it turned out great, though this picture doesn't do justice to how well it looks in person. This is on the table that suffered an acetone spill.

 

[GriscomRun]

Yeah, can't wait. I have a Woodsrunner I'm waiting on. I'm ok with Iron Nitrate and permalyn but want to add the Tried and True for a slightly richer finish.
I have one Woodsrunner with just Iron Nitrate and it's ok but looks kinda blonde. I may or may not add tried and true to it.

 

[TDM]

Like @blackeagle said, Tried & True Oil Varnish is available on Amazon or through the T&T company.

 

[GriscomRun]

ordered it fr Amazon.....thx

 

[Marplot]

Also waiting for a Woodrunner kit from Kiblers. Reached out to Bree a few days ago. They are presently tooling up a flock of stocks. I am getting the carved stock. They said it would be a week or two before they begin shipping. But I am an impatient guy so I just bought Jamie Huxley completed Colonial. I should be shooting well before Christmas!

And very slowly can do my WR stock. I am looking at alternate wood finishing videos as well as Kibler youtube. Some people doing some really interesting curly maple, especially working on violins. Will keep you all in the Loop!