Kibler Flintlock--question about cleaning and spots on barrel

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RyanGeiler

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Been shooting my Kibler for about 3-4 months. This past weekend I took it on a hunt with me and it got a lot of use. I did clean it that night, although it wasn't my usual "over the top" clean. I didn't barricade it, as I planned on cleaning it again when I got home the next day--which I did (and then barricade). I did notice while cleaning it the 2nd night, I saw some spots in the pan for the first time. I'm sure I'm being paranoid but I wanted to make sure the spots were just normal blueing or wear/tear and not a sign of my incompetence :). My cleaning procedure is:

Warm water + Muzzle Magic #77 mixture, toothpick in hole, soak. Then pad cleaning until clean.
Then alcohol swabs x 3 to dry out moisture
Then dry swabs until dry/clean
Barricade
The pan/lock get the same general treatment, except by hand/q-tip.

Tell me I'm being silly and my gun won't look brand spanking new forever---or tell me I'm doing something wrong :). Thanks.

Flash Pan Spots.jpg
 

Winchester97

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Looks like your gun/lock is either in-the-white, or a light patina finish. A little sctchbrite would clear that right up. I have also used a Big 45 Frontier rust remover scrub. It's amazing, will not harm bluing, but takes rust right off, good for lead deposits in the bore as well. Don't worry, only rust in the bore gives me the cold sweats.
 

Art Caputo

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When I built my Colonial I wiped on some metal aging solution ro the steel components to give it a darkened/aged appearance. Not being very long lasting or durable, it wears quickly(especially on the hardened lock components), but gives the natural metal aging appearance of an ‘in the white” rifle somewhat of a head start with the discoloration of normal use. A good lube like Barricade should be applied after cleaning whichwill inhibit any surface rust, but the small blackish spots, which I see on the frizzen, pan, and jaws of the lock seem to be etched in, and caused more by the high heat of ignition on the lightly/unfinished surface. While they can be removed with an abrasive(like ScotchBrite) if you wish to re-brighten the metalwork, they will eventually blend in with the natural. patina, so I have chosen to leave them be.
Note the top jaw/hammer…..Yes, the flint cracked after about 40 perfect ignitions..still going strong!
409666E4-78C2-492C-B2D6-D564AE09A5ED.jpeg
 

Eric Krewson

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These spots are of no consequence, expect the same on the barrel at that point over time. Short of sanding the pan every time they appear they are hard to get rid of.

That said; I use a Dremel and a buffing wheel to polish my pans to a mirror finish, they clean up easier that way.
 

rchas

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Looks like the start of naturally developed patina. I would only worry about active rust pits.
 

dave_person

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Hi,
I notice that a lot of folks posting their Kibler assemblies appear to not do much polishing on the outside of the locks to remove the cast surface. The original English locks of that type were not cast and did not have that bead blasted surface. They were polished and left bright or sometimes temper blued. Anyway, it is wise to at least polish the inside of the pan. That will reduce the risk of rusting and reduce tarnishing. The photos below show the level of polish I apply to the pans.



dave
 

BadDaditood

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In a world full of grumbly people, this forum is always so nice, helpful and knowledgeable. Thanks so much everyone for the help/replies and setting my paranoia at ease!
Stick around, this crowd gets Really Grumbly!!! :rolleyes:o_O:rolleyes:o_O
 

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