Jewelers saw blades---Wondering.

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Crow Choker

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Getting a Kibler SMR sometime soon, 36 caliber (on order) and about the only tool I will be in need of is a Jewelers saw. Could get by with one I know, have so for the last 52 years of gun tinkerin'-a standard and mini hacksaw and coping saw have always been used, but a Jewelers saw always been on the 'gonna get list'--been times I wished I had one. Looking at TOTW site, looking at all the various sizes available. Wondering from those of you who have been using a JS for a spell what tpi, width, thickness's you use most and could recommend. Don't want to get blade packs that I wouldn't use or have to order a size I should have gotten. Thanks for any info!
 

Crow Choker

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Well, if you just WANT a jeweler saw, by all means buy one. BUT you certainly won’t need one to finish a Kibler SMR.
Here ya there, but see on Kiblers site for tools recommended for finishing a SMR, a JS is/may be needed. Have always been on the want list. Was going to order one the last time I did an order with Track, but forgot to include it. I know it will work 'light years ahead' of what I use now, even the mini hacksaw I bought some years ago. For the cost on a JS it wouldn't be a big expense, nothing like some high dollar power tool that is used maybe for a few small purposes and then sits and gathers dust most of the time.
 

rchas

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Get several packs of blades, while you are at it. They don't last long, even lubed with beeswax. Once you have one you will find plenty of uses for it--mine has become indispensable.
 

ohio ramrod

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I use mine a lot and use both the finest and medium blades most often. I use mine mostly for cutting ivory. I find it very useful on Ivory.I get the mixed packs of blades. There is a learning curve to cutting with one with out breaking the fine blades
 

Crow Choker

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I use mine a lot and use both the finest and medium blades most often. I use mine mostly for cutting ivory. I find it very useful on Ivory.I get the mixed packs of blades. There is a learning curve to cutting with one with out breaking the fine blades
Where do you get the 'mixed packs of blades'? Brownells and Track just offer packs of the same cut/diameter.
 
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At our build class at Western Kentucky University in June, Jim stopped in and was roped into demonstrating how he uses a jewelers saw. I had a saw and a pack of whatever blades it came with that I was sharing. Pretty fine blades.

Jim made that look so easy. One of my classmates, a young college student really put forth the effort to cut his barrel lug holes, as did another young fellow that seemed to know his way around tools. The third fellow worked at it and got 'er done. But I was hopeless with that saw. I could cut things. But not where I wanted. I found another way.

Practice if you can.
 

Hatchet-Jack

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At our build class at Western Kentucky University in June, Jim stopped in and was roped into demonstrating how he uses a jewelers saw. I had a saw and a pack of whatever blades it came with that I was sharing. Pretty fine blades.

Jim made that look so easy. One of my classmates, a young college student really put forth the effort to cut his barrel lug holes, as did another young fellow that seemed to know his way around tools. The third fellow worked at it and got 'er done. But I was hopeless with that saw. I could cut things. But not where I wanted. I found another way.

Practice if you can.
No kidding it's not easy to control where it's going. I did my lugs on my Kibler SMR and they came out ok but I would like to know how to control it better. I have four to do on my PA Fowler I'm building right now. @Tom A Hawk what's the trick to controlling the blade direction?
 

Crow Choker

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Wondering---Are the JS sold on Amazon ulp to the same quality as those sold by Track or Brownells? I know whatever Brownells sells is good quality, assume Tracks are. What I've found with alot of Amazon ware's are that some sellers will sell sub-quality items. Have seen items made in China that were copies of well made items and had subpar reviews.. Notice the Amazon wording on the JS was listed as "German Style", which tells me it is a copy of a better quality saw. Could be wrong, but suspicious. IMO nothing that comes out of China anymore is worthy, they should be regulated only to sell nothing but the cheap toys in a Cracker Box-box and that is being gracious.
 

Tom A Hawk

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No kidding it's not easy to control where it's going. I did my lugs on my Kibler SMR and they came out ok but I would like to know how to control it better. I have four to do on my PA Fowler I'm building right now. @Tom A Hawk what's the trick to controlling the blade direction?
Good frame tension on the blade reduces twisting.
Keeping the teeth in line with the frame as much as possible tells you where they are pointed.
Advancing slowly helps to keep a straight line.
Cut just off your pattern line and then clean up with files.
I grip the saw handle with thumb and index finger only and pump the saw straight up and down.
Hope the above is helpful.
 

rchas

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No kidding it's not easy to control where it's going. I did my lugs on my Kibler SMR and they came out ok but I would like to know how to control it better. I have four to do on my PA Fowler I'm building right now. @Tom A Hawk what's the trick to controlling the blade direction?
The blade needs to be tight enough to "ping" like a plucked guitar string. Cut v e r y s l o w l y.... the blades heat up quickly from friction and will stretch/warp and throw off your cut. Also, cut straight ahead--don't try to guide the saw into a curve; instead turn the work into the blade path. When I am cutting an inlay or patchbox I use a board with a V-cut in the end to support the work. Using a jeweler's saw is an exercise in patience.
 

springfield art

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I wish I had, years ago, bought a good set of Gunsmith's Screwdrivers! Brownell's has different levels of sets, the investment will pay off handsomely over a lifetime of hobby gun tinkering, even if not a professional 'smith.
 

Hatchet-Jack

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The blade needs to be tight enough to "ping" like a plucked guitar string. Cut v e r y s l o w l y.... the blades heat up quickly from friction and will stretch/warp and throw off your cut. Also, cut straight ahead--don't try to guide the saw into a curve; instead turn the work into the blade path. When I am cutting an inlay or patchbox I use a board with a V-cut in the end to support the work. Using a jeweler's saw is an exercise in patience.
Nice tips thanks!
 

Hatchet-Jack

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Good frame tension on the blade reduces twisting.
Keeping the teeth in line with the frame as much as possible tells you where they are pointed.
Advancing slowly helps to keep a straight line.
Cut just off your pattern line and then clean up with files.
I grip the saw handle with thumb and index finger only and pump the saw straight up and down.
Hope the above is helpful.
Very helpful thanks!
 

Mulemauler

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This is a tool I don't use often but for some jobs it is really good to have.
 

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