It finally happened froze nipple on my buffalo hunter

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hawkeye2

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Do you have a 1/4" square socket? If not take a 1/4" drive socket and put it on upside down. Use an allen wrench in the end where the bolt usually goes. I recommend 1/4" or larger allen wrench. You may have to grind the socket down some to clear the barrel and fence but don't be afraid to sacrifice a socket, an inexpensive one is strong enough and it will still work as a socket. Since the nipple has a fairly large shoulder I can't imagine anyone running it in so far they damaged the bolster. The threads would strip first if they had something long enough and strong enough to get it that tight, a nipple wrench would fail first.
 

russellshaffer

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Saw the bump off and cut a slot for a screwdriver. The use an impact tool on it. You really should remove the barrel first. Harbor Freight will have the impact tool for a low price. I bet it pops right out.
 

Britsmoothy

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Nothing easy about an ezyout! When you tap them in one is in fact spreading the stuck item so it is tighter in! The same taper unlocks them too.

Weld a nut on as mentioned, the heat will cause so much thermal expansion it will release.
 

52Bore

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Looks like the square is still there...
I’d measure and make a wrench that fits.
Did another one recently, an original Whitworth Sporting Rifle that the owner couldn’t remove.
T-handle and have someone tap on the top as your loosen- kinda like an impact.
DC219B5F-E043-4B7F-985A-B6FD50134C18.jpeg
 

Acker

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30 years restoring vintage Harleys here,10 years before that on German printing presses,4 years as a Porsche mechanic..I can tell you easy outs are something you jam in the hole and deliberately break it off to warn others it's too late..If you use them,get the square ones,not the screw type..The square ones really bite in,the stupid screw ones expand the screw and REALLY lock it in..
From the look of it,if it were mine..I'd cut off the really damaged thin part..Put some good penetrating oil on it,[KROIL..] let it sit for a day of two,and wail on it a bit with a punch..Then try the easy out..Drill it to a little bigger size if you can to get the easy out in fairly deel..Deeper it is,less likely to break....
If that doesn't work,take the barrel out of the stock,heat it cherry red,then give it a few taps with the hammer & punch,then use the easy out..Righty tighty,lefty loosie..Good luck!!
 

Eterry

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Howie, when I bought my Buffalo hunter 10 plus years ago it had the #11 cap nipple installed, and somehow the nipple was sunk below the metal surrounding it, making it IMPOSSIBLE to remove. Soooo, I've been shooting it with #11 caps and dreading the day it needs replacing. I refuse to dry fire it unless it has a leather cover, to prevent undue damage to the nipple.

Ease-outs in my experience would make great cannon fodder...otherwise they are useless. Maybe some vise-grips and a butane torch will help your situation.
Good luck.
Your fellow Texan.
 

Howie1968

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gave up sending ito whitacerbarrels he can get it out intall oversize nipple or fill it in and drill a new nipple hole
 

nagantino

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My commiserations. I decided to change the nipple on my recently acquired Parker Hale Volunteer.451. It was the beginning of the Lockdown so something to do. The nipple was solid. The supplied key began the rounding off of the crucial corners. I stopped and flooded the nipple with a penetrating oil both ends. I left it for 2 days but nothing shifted it. I held the gun upside down in a bench vice and turned the gun to get maximum turning force. Nothing. The nipple was pretty beat up by now. I would love to tell you that suddenly, the nipple began to move out but It did not. Here’s the short version, without the tears: I cut the shaft of the nipple off. I drilled in enough to fit an Easyout. I increased the Easyout to the next size. Nothing. If one of them had broken off, then I really would have been in trouble. I put the Easyout kit away. I increased the size of the drill bits as far as I dared. I bought a 5/16 tap and worked it in and out. I picked the threads with dental tools. The last piece of the nipple caught in the threads, came out like a cut toenail. Cleaned it and fitted the well greased new nipple. I would not wish this on anyone but it worked.
1. Remove the barrel.
2. Tape off the area surrounding the nipple.
3. Work slowly.
4. Be wary of the Easyout tool.
5. If I can do it anyone can.
6. Grease new nipple, and loosen it after each range visit.
 

Artificer

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Vibration seems to help loosen things. I was told years ago when you spray Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc. on something that is rusted to tap it with a hammer after spraying, the vibration helps the penetrating fluid soak into the rusted parts.
I have forgotten all the beat down or rust welded cones (nipples) I removed from UnCivil War Period Original and Repro guns and yes, Buffalo Hunters at the Spring and Fall National Championships of the North South Skirmish Assocation between 1974 and 2005.

Kroil is not bad penetrating oil, but PB Blaster is definitely a cut above it. Begin with that.

A socket wrench will work sometimes, but often just round the corners of the Beryllium (Brass looking) Nipples will round over on you.

If you can, saw and file a screwdriver slot, it works sometimes with a T handle Screwdriver.

When things were really bad, I drilled down through the center using a Carbide Bur. Now THAT provided a lot of vibration to help loosen things up.

Yes, use the largest Easy Out you can get in the hole. First put a little pressure on tightening it, then back off in a hard jerking motion and they all come out.

Gus
 

hawkeye2

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"A socket wrench will work sometimes, but often just round the corners of the Beryllium (Brass looking) Nipples will round over on you."

A 4 point socket has rounded the corners for you? I could see it happening with an 8 point socket.
 

Tinhorn

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I would drop the ramrod down the barrel to see if it's unloaded, then I would put the JB Blaster down the barrel, dunk it in boiling water for about 5 minutes to really heat up the whole breech without damaging anything, and use the light brass hammer on the 1/4" socket mentioned earlier while the barrel is still hot. Soft-jaw vice on the muzzle end, breech on a 2x4 chunk to take the hammer. The threads should bounce loose. But make sure it's only hitting the nipple, not the bolster! I shot one of these with a great Lyman Peepsight with target knobs, and set triggers, as a benchrest gun after I found out it was a lousy stalking rifle, but 1 ragged hole@100yds benchrest gun. Best of luck with it! Tinhorn
 
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