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Is my flint striking the frizzen correctly?

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Robert Getz

32 Cal
Joined
Jan 2, 2020
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Good morning all,

I just recently got my hands on the newer improved hammer for the thompson center hawken flintlocks that tc had made to replace the old hammer that had a bad geometry. I installed this new hammer with no issues, put in a 5/8"x7/8" flint (i should be using a 3/4"x7/8" flint but i didnt have any at the time) and it not longer gouges out the frizzen and provides some nice spark, merely scraping the frizzen.

However, i notice that after firing the cock and flint are substaintially higher up above the pan than im used to and i not sure if this is wrong or what. Usually the flint is almost in the pan after a full strike on the frizzen, at least thats what im used to seeing. Basically with the cock down and the frizzen down, the flint is about 1/4" above the bottom edge of the frizzen. Attached are two photos, one is at half cock showing my flint placement, and the second is after pulling the trigger and then resetting the frizzen so you can see where the flint stops scraping the frizzen.

The gun shoots fine and i think there is plenty of spark, i just feel like there is something off here and looking for opinions

Thanks
Jake

frizzen1.jpg

frizzen2.jpg
 

Attachments

  • frizzen1.jpg
    frizzen1.jpg
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Yes it looks acceptable.
Your lock is the improved version of the TC lock where they corrected the geometry with a different cock.
You may want to cut a groove in the leather holding your flint, and allow the bare stone to touch the metal of the jaw screw. ;)

The older style looks like this:

TC LOCKS OLD AND NEW.JPG


LD
 
Yes it looks acceptable.
Your lock is the improved version of the TC lock where they corrected the geometry with a different cock.
You may want to cut a groove in the leather holding your flint, and allow the bare stone to touch the metal of the jaw screw. ;)

The older style looks like this:

View attachment 66993

LD
yes my lock used to have the old style hammer i just recently found the new style and replaced it with it, it defintelys scrapes the frizzen much better now. Thanks for the reply! Do you think my flint is too close to the frizzen at half cock and thats why i should cut a hole inthe leather?
 
Well from what we know it was pretty universal that the stone rested upon the jaw screw in the flintlock era, and what you're doing with the leather is not only moving it closer to the frizzen, which as you suspected brings the striking angle closer to 90°, but it also cushions the impact as it allows for a slight rearward movement on impact. While this may or may not reduce sparking effect, it may allow your flint to work free. ;)

LD
 
Well from what we know it was pretty universal that the stone rested upon the jaw screw in the flintlock era, and what you're doing with the leather is not only moving it closer to the frizzen, which as you suspected brings the striking angle closer to 90°, but it also cushions the impact as it allows for a slight rearward movement on impact. While this may or may not reduce sparking effect, it may allow your flint to work free. ;)

LD
ahh ok i gotcha, ill have to do that then i never even gave it a thought, thanks for the heads up!
 
Good morning all,

I just recently got my hands on the newer improved hammer for the thompson center hawken flintlocks that tc had made to replace the old hammer that had a bad geometry. I installed this new hammer with no issues, put in a 5/8"x7/8" flint (i should be using a 3/4"x7/8" flint but i didnt have any at the time) and it not longer gouges out the frizzen and provides some nice spark, merely scraping the frizzen.

However, i notice that after firing the cock and flint are substaintially higher up above the pan than im used to and i not sure if this is wrong or what. Usually the flint is almost in the pan after a full strike on the frizzen, at least thats what im used to seeing. Basically with the cock down and the frizzen down, the flint is about 1/4" above the bottom edge of the frizzen. Attached are two photos, one is at half cock showing my flint placement, and the second is after pulling the trigger and then resetting the frizzen so you can see where the flint stops scraping the frizzen.

The gun shoots fine and i think there is plenty of spark, i just feel like there is something off here and looking for opinions

Thanks
Jake

View attachment 66991
View attachment 66992

I have the old style hammer Could you please tell me where you bought the improved flintlock Thompson hammer because i'm having the same problem you are having. Thanks
 
I have the old style hammer Could you please tell me where you bought the improved flintlock Thompson hammer because i'm having the same problem you are having. Thanks
Try The Gun Works Muzzleloading Emporium.
I just ordered 2 recently. $25 per and $3 shipping. Call and talk with them at 541-741-4118 or you can order on line. Very nice folks to deal with. They are behind on shipping so you will have to be patient.
Good luck,
Ed
 
I have the old style hammer Could you please tell me where you bought the improved flintlock Thompson hammer because i'm having the same problem you are having. Thanks
Larry
In the meantime, if you can't get hold of the corrected part in a timely manner...,

You can adjust the angle of the flint sometimes in the jaws. We have to do this sometimes with the military muskets as we get some really odd shaped flints and have to shoot a bunch of shots in quick succession without misfires. Can't have the flint getting "eaten"...,

Take a round ball, and a hammer, and on a concrete surface (I use my basement floor but a sidewalk will work) pound the ball flat and kinda thin. Since it's soft lead you should be able to then use scissors and cut off a thin piece of the flattened ball. This then becomes a tiny shim that you place under the back edge of the flint.

This illustration is of a musket flint wrapped in lead with a lead shim, but you can do the same with a leather wrapped flint. In situations where I needed to do this in the field, I've used a small, wooden matchstick (after the head was removed) to act as a shim.

COCK with FLINT SHIM.jpg


Yes, crude, and NOT as good as a proper angle on the jaws themselves, but often works better than allowing a 90 degree flint to frizzen impact. ;)

LD
 
Larry
In the meantime, if you can't get hold of the corrected part in a timely manner...,

You can adjust the angle of the flint sometimes in the jaws. We have to do this sometimes with the military muskets as we get some really odd shaped flints and have to shoot a bunch of shots in quick succession without misfires. Can't have the flint getting "eaten"...,

Take a round ball, and a hammer, and on a concrete surface (I use my basement floor but a sidewalk will work) pound the ball flat and kinda thin. Since it's soft lead you should be able to then use scissors and cut off a thin piece of the flattened ball. This then becomes a tiny shim that you place under the back edge of the flint.

This illustration is of a musket flint wrapped in lead with a lead shim, but you can do the same with a leather wrapped flint. In situations where I needed to do this in the field, I've used a small, wooden matchstick (after the head was removed) to act as a shim.

View attachment 67275

Yes, crude, and NOT as good as a proper angle on the jaws themselves, but often works better than allowing a 90 degree flint to frizzen impact. ;)

LD
Thanks for this tid bit of information because I've felt there was something to give me a slight edge to correct my situation until I get the proper hammer ordered.
 
Thanks for this tid bit of information because I've felt there was something to give me a slight edge to correct my situation until I get the proper hammer ordered.
I have a flint pistol that was giving me trouble like that and I heated up the cock arm and bent it forward a few degrees. You have to make sure cock jaws remain square to the frizzen on the cross axis and then it needs to be re-hardened and blued/browned but it works perfectly now.
Your flint life will be drastically shortened unless it impacts the frizzen on a bit of angle initially.
 
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