Is it uncool to use Pyrodex?

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Pyrodex fouling is more corrosive than black powder fouling. Pyrodex degrades chemically with time. Black powder hardly ever does. Many claim Pyrodex is not as consistent as black powder from shot to shot. Purodex is nearly impossible to use in a flintlock. Pyrodex fouling does seem to hide in the microscopic crevices in some barrel allloys and creeps back out to rust a few days after a cleaning. I found that the old fashioned WW2 army bore cleaner, smelly stuff with benzene and other hazardous substances does a better job at neutralizing Pyrodex fouling. Personally, I would avoid Pyrodex except as a possible very very last resort. If you look at it like a Ford Chevy rivalry, it is like driving a Yugo.
people seem to think BP is so clean and almost non corrosive where I have found a pistol or a rifle fired with BP looks like they were pulled out of the rubble pile of the trade centers. also BP fouls the barrel leading to swabbing it and Pyro doesnt. BP will rust your gun to unusable if not cleaned. I dont care what anybody uses but why make things up

I agree SPQR70AD, I’ve seen some pretty nasty flintlocks that have only used BP over the years, its equally as bad in terms of corrosiveness. Pyrodex is dirtier but the cleaning conundrum remains the same, clean it or it will rust.
 

JohnnieT

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I shoot both. I grab a pound or two of powder when I make my occasional trips to DGW. At my local store, I pick up Pyrodex when/if I need any. Both perform well enough for my needs, and I really don’t mind the extra-thorough cleaning after shooting Pyrodex. To me, both have their place.
 

leadhoarder

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Pyrodex fouling is more corrosive than black powder fouling. Pyrodex degrades chemically with time. Black powder hardly ever does. Many claim Pyrodex is not as consistent as black powder from shot to shot. Purodex is nearly impossible to use in a flintlock. Pyrodex fouling does seem to hide in the microscopic crevices in some barrel allloys and creeps back out to rust a few days after a cleaning. I found that the old fashioned WW2 army bore cleaner, smelly stuff with benzene and other hazardous substances does a better job at neutralizing Pyrodex fouling. Personally, I would avoid Pyrodex except as a possible very very last resort. If you look at it like a Ford Chevy rivalry, it is like driving a Yugo.
That wwii cleaner was probably formulated to neutralize corrosive primer residue which is what I understand the same as the corrosive compound left by pyrodex.
 

zimmerstutzen

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I agree SPQR70AD, I’ve seen some pretty nasty flintlocks that have only used BP over the years, its equally as bad in terms of corrosiveness. Pyrodex is dirtier but the cleaning conundrum remains the same, clean it or it will rust.
I have seen lots of corroded guns. That a flinter is corroded doesn't mean Pyrodex is better than real black powder. There have been experiments using equal amounts of black powder and pyrodex on clean steel plate and then keep them in the same humidity for 2 days. and then 4 days, etc. Pyrodex causes corrosion much faster.

And the statement that if you clean your gun well, there will be no problem is also a farce. It mistakenly assumes that all barrel alloys are the same. Some alloys have more microscopic cracks than others. We could let you clean two barrels. and the one will show signs of rust a week later, even if cleaned the same. This is particularly true for used guns that may have already had some minor pitting. It is a mistake to use Pyrodex in some antiques because of the barrel alloy and likelihood of existing pitting.
 

zimmerstutzen

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I'm glad there are some here who know where I should be able to find my black powder locally if I tried harder. I've only lived here all of my life and thought I had a pretty good handle on where the sporting goods stores and gun shops are that might have it 🙄
That is a frequent complaint by many. I am fortunate to live in PA with a flintlock only season, so real black powder is not that hard to get. I also have three black powder shops within a two hour drive. One of the forums I belong to had a listing by state and town of shops that sold black powder. I'll try to find it for you.
 

zimmerstutzen

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Unfortunately real black powder isn’t allowed to be sold where I live, and the nearest place I could pick it up is about 6 hours away. So for the foreseeable future pyrodex is the way to go for me, unless I find a good deal online.
You can't get the other substitutes?
 
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Still shooting BP leftovers from the 60's thanks to my blessed (and long deceased) father. Also have Pyrodex pellets and powder from about 2002. The pyrodex that had been opened sure doesn't seem to work very well (admittedly no 'tests', etc.) Those old pellets? Forget it. Several times although the ball did, indeed leave the muzzle, one or two would come out trailing smoke and land a few feet in front of me. Been better off with firecracker punk. Fzzzzz....smolder smolder.
 
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Still shooting BP leftovers from the 60's thanks to my blessed (and long deceased) father. Also have Pyrodex pellets and powder from about 2002. The pyrodex that had been opened sure doesn't seem to work very well (admittedly no 'tests', etc.) Those old pellets? Forget it. Several times although the ball did, indeed leave the muzzle, one or two would come out trailing smoke and land a few feet in front of me. Been better off with firecracker punk. Fzzzzz....smolder smolder.
Laughing emoji selected for the latter half of your post. Paints a comical picture 😂
 
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And the statement that if you clean your gun well, there will be no problem is also a farce.

Folks who properly clean and preserve their guns have no problem with corrosion from firing either black powder or Pyrodex. My guns were untouched by human hands for long as two years while i worked overseas. None rusted.

For years hunters brought their neglected guns to be made serviceable for deer season.
There is no difference in the damage caused by failure to clean guns after firing either black powder or Pyrodex. Uncleaned guns that fired black powder are a little cruddier but the corrosion damage is the same.

Finally stopped cleaning up their neglected muzzleloaders. You would have thought that i had violated their civil rights.

Guns with pits and rust in the bores are another case. i absolutely will not own a muzzleloader with a pitted and corroded bore.

In the late 50s and early 60s i traded for and traded away at least 200 original muzzleloaders. 75 percent of the bores were trashed and the breeches were rusted and badly pitted.

i could give two hoots in hades who thinks Pyrodex is uncool.
 

Paul Nelson

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Now, I dont care if you use it or you dont use it none of my bussiness. I chose not to and if in your mind that makes me a snob well I've been called lots things much worse than that. :) I tried it when it first hit the market an didn't care for it.
I wouldn’t consider you a snob, to me a snob is someone who looks down their nose at people that use a different brand or method than they do. I’m like you, use whatever you like no judgment.
 

kyron4

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the question I have is; why does Pyrodex exist at all?
It exist to get around federal guide lines ,as tenngun stated, as it is classified as a propellant and BP is classified as a explosive . Walmart has Pyrodex out in the open on a shelf ready to throw in the cart with your dog food , yet razors, headlights, etc. are locked behind glass .
 

toot

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It will shoot, however I guarantee that it has the potential to rust barrel and parts, residue is much harder to clean up. If you only have 2 options one being 777 and one pyrodex I would definitely recommend 777 just work your loads up from a reduced starting point.
I shot my BESS today with 80 grains of strait T-7, TRIPPLE-7, and had no delayed firing, went off the same as REAL BLACK. loaded T-7, hornets nest on top of the T-7, and hornets nest on top of the ball, to hold the 725 DIA. RB, in the barrel to keep it from falling out. jmho
 
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