Iron nitrate after stains

[sussexmuzllodr]

Zonie, don't you mean ammonia since vinegar is a mild acid not a base.

I was wondering the same

 

[Zonie]

You guys got me on that one. Duh.

Yup. I should have said ammonia.

 

[jfahlingsr]

Yo

I was wondering the same

You know if I feel a need to go back to Aquafortis I might try ammonia.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

There is little to no possible chance that aqua fortis has ever turned a curly maple stock green, chromium trioxide holds that distinction, both are applied and blushed the same way so therefore they are easily confused with each other.

Aqua fortis being a chemical reaction will bring the best out of the curly maple while any form of applied stain will actually detract a bit as the particulate in suspension does fill the pores.

 

[Barry Strickland]

ApprenticeBuild,
I agree with you when stating that stain products fill the pores of the wood and hide the true grain beauty. However, using aniline dye is a totally different product than stain. Aniline dies penetrate the wood fibers to create the color and do not hide the grain structure. I have used aniline dyes for fifty years now with excellent results as some others also have.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Apprentice is right. Aqua fortis, nor ferric nitrate will ever turn a stock green. Period...... unless it is not blushed properly. It will be green from the start, when blushed it turns a beautiful amber to chestnut color, depending on the chemical make up of the wood.
if using aqua fortis, it must be neutralized, or will eventually darken with time. Ferric nitrate needs no neutralizing.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

ApprenticeBuild,
I agree with you when stating that stain products fill the pores of the wood and hide the true grain beauty. However, using aniline dye is a totally different product than stain. Aniline dies penetrate the wood fibers to create the color and do not hide the grain structure. I have used aniline dyes for fifty years now with excellent results as some others also have.

We can agree to dis-agree, there is a ton of information out there, also search for posts by Stophel, this subject has been covered extensively.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

However, using aniline dye is a totally different product than stain. Aniline dies penetrate the wood fibers to create the color and do not hide the grain structure.

I don't doubt that you're getting good results and are happy with them.

Here is a little test that you can perform that will prove my point, no matter if your using dye or stain, take a piece of wood and apply your chosen formula and let it dry as you normally would, then take a white rag and saturate it with your chosen methods carrier, aniline dyes seem to use water while the stains are using alcohol, now take your saturated rag and scrub that piece of wood, two things are gonna happen, the first thing you'll notice is that the rag has picked up significant color from the wood (this is the material muddying up the grain) and the second thing is that the wood is now lighter in overall color, neither of these is possible with aqua fortis.

Ideally if you want the ability to manipulate the color of your curly maple stock you'd tint the finish thus allowing the grain to pop to it's full potential without muddying it up.

As a side note, no matter how many times you go through the procedure of scrubbing the wood with the saturated rag you will always remove a little more color.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Aniline dyes have a tendency to fade with time as well. Chromium trioxide and magic maple stains are two of the worst products for staining maple. Been there, will never do that again.

 

[Scota@4570]

My SOP is to use a base coat of Ferric Nitrate solution. I needs no neutralizing. AF made from iron and nitric acid does. After the base coat does it's thing I assess what I have. No pat formula is possible because wood varies. If I want it darker or with a different tint I use Laural Mountian forge dye stains. I have several colors. I mix and match until I get what I want. IF I overshoot and want to make it lighter I rub it back with maroon scotchbright pads. Staining maple is a cut and try job. There are lots of correct answers.

 

[Tenring]

Been doing this for 50+ years........to eliminate the need for harsh unpredictable acids or bases that can turn green or very dark over time , try Febing's black alcohol stain first. (Eliminates the chemicals for a base stain , and can lightened by adding 90% strength rubbing alcohol.) Dry the alcohol w/ heat gun and whiskers come up immediately. OOOO steel wool , then after you mix a couple Febing's alco. stains , red , yellow , orange , tan , etc . and try on some wood samples , apply over the black and heat gun dry , and again , OOOO steel wool. No two pieces of maple are the same , as hardness , density , figure , and grain can vary. Once you get the hang of alcohol stains and the control of color they give , you might like it. Alcohol stains , all colors , can be ordered from Leather Unlimited , Tandy , and other places. ............oldwood

Old wood I have Febing’s Mahogany Alcohol, and Dark Brown Alcohol stains for my leather work, with your experience using Febing’s on wood I would like to try the Mahogany over the Aqua Fortis after heat up a 0000 rub down. I can try on the Maple scraps I have to see but figured I would ask to see if it’s worth wile or not. Thanks in advance…