Tips for inletting a fusil buttplate? Don't really wanna ruin a nice walnut stock.
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Inletting
- Thread starter Uriahs
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Sharp blades, and little pieces.
Don't try to hurry, butt plates take hours. If it get's tough,, stop for the night, then start again.
Did I say butt plates take hours?
Don't try to hurry, butt plates take hours. If it get's tough,, stop for the night, then start again.
Did I say butt plates take hours?
Sam squanch
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And don’t have 4 beers while doing it…
Define fusil. All it means is "gun".
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There are butt plates and butt plates, not for nothing did typical trade guns have simple easily fitted ones.
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Hi,
If you mean a French gun, most have very straight butt plates. That is good, particularly if the return (tang) is one that swells in spots. The flat plate allows you to inlet it straight down once the rear of the stock is flattened to match it. With swellings in the return, it is difficult to move it forward. However, that can be done if needed by bending the return up and out of the way until the face of the plate is fitted and then bending it down and inletting straight down.
dave
If you mean a French gun, most have very straight butt plates. That is good, particularly if the return (tang) is one that swells in spots. The flat plate allows you to inlet it straight down once the rear of the stock is flattened to match it. With swellings in the return, it is difficult to move it forward. However, that can be done if needed by bending the return up and out of the way until the face of the plate is fitted and then bending it down and inletting straight down.
dave
Being a rookie on my fowler build I thought the wood on a butt plate inlet had to be a mirror image of the inside of the butt plate. I started out with too much wood to "practice" on my way down, big mistake. I could have built two guns in the time it took me to inlet this butt plate. Being steel there was no peening any gaps to fill them, after working for a week or so trying to get the last 1/8" gap at the toe closed I heated the butt plate toe to red hot and smacked it with a sledge hammer, problem solved.
Anyway, all you need to be concerned about is the outside edge, don't worry about the wood in the middle.
Too much wood;
A mirror image of the inside of the butt plate with tens of thousands of unnecessary tiny chips removed. I repositioned the screws 4 or 5 times on my way down.
It came out OK but if I make another fowler, I won't repeat my earlier mistakes while inletting the butt plate.
Anyway, all you need to be concerned about is the outside edge, don't worry about the wood in the middle.
Too much wood;
A mirror image of the inside of the butt plate with tens of thousands of unnecessary tiny chips removed. I repositioned the screws 4 or 5 times on my way down.
It came out OK but if I make another fowler, I won't repeat my earlier mistakes while inletting the butt plate.
Fusil du chasse
The Appalachian
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Did this one while on some heavy duty post surgery pain meds, 4 beers ain't jack Jack.
Just keep a wound dressing kit handy.......
Translation, "Gun for the hunt". That one you have to inlet straight down. refer to Dave Person's post, he's right on as usual.
^ times 1000. Flatter butt plates are easier but they still will test your resolve.
Many originals are inlet flat, but some do follow the shape like you've done. I've seen this on silver fowling piece buttplates as it's pretty soft and needs the support. Nice Job!
Sam squanch
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Try a spurred pistol butt cap! 
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Hi Sam,
Not that hard. Just bend the spurs out until the butt is fitted and then bend them in, trace the outline, and cut it.
dave
Not that hard. Just bend the spurs out until the butt is fitted and then bend them in, trace the outline, and cut it.
dave
Sam squanch
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Yes, but do you saw the butt flat , or shape it to fit down into the cap? I had trouble with mine. But it was the first one I attempted.
The Appalachian
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Third picture is shaped to fit down into the cap.
Sam squanch
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I see…..maybe I will try it again on a pistol build soon!
Buttplate is done except for final finish, inlet the lock. Was wondering if yall think the lock is up against the barrel, I want a good fit! I'm not finding any color transfer so I think I'm good. Any tips for geometry of the lock bolts and tang bolt?
Attachments
All I have left to do is the trigger guard, drill and tap the lock bolts and tang bolt and maybe inlet the side plate. Kinda nervous about the bolts, I've never tapped anything out before. Any tips? 10/32 bolts should I use a size smaller drill bit for the pilot holes?
