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Inletting trigger on a rifle.

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Crow-Feather

32 Cal.
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When building my first rifle, I did discover some mistakes, after I made them. One of the biggest is inletting my trigger. The lock and trigger were already inletted, but I cleaned out the trigger area and lowered the trigger deeper into the stock.
When cleaning my rifle yesterday, I discovered that if I pushed forward on the set trigger when the rifle was cocked, the hammer would fall. No amount of adjusting would make the rifle safe and still allow everything to work properly. Using Prussian blue, I discovered that the lock and part of the set trigger were touching. I shimmed the trigger group 1/16" and the rifle worked perfectly. Moral of the Post, 1/16" can make a heck of a difference. Inlet with care. (This is for first time builders. Hope it helps avoiding my mistake)
 
Another fix is , install a 4-40 or 6-32 allen screw , so it lifts up on the under side of the trigger's main spring. The more you screw in the screw , the more vertical play in the front trigger to keep it from touching the lock sear arm. Works.............oldwood
 
When building my first rifle, I did discover some mistakes, after I made them. One of the biggest is inletting my trigger. The lock and trigger were already inletted, but I cleaned out the trigger area and lowered the trigger deeper into the stock.
When cleaning my rifle yesterday, I discovered that if I pushed forward on the set trigger when the rifle was cocked, the hammer would fall. No amount of adjusting would make the rifle safe and still allow everything to work properly. Using Prussian blue, I discovered that the lock and part of the set trigger were touching. I shimmed the trigger group 1/16" and the rifle worked perfectly. Moral of the Post, 1/16" can make a heck of a difference. Inlet with care. (This is for first time builders. Hope it helps avoiding my mistake)
That's the way double set triggers work.
The rear trigger has a blade on the top which normally rests slightly below the arm on the sear when the trigger is not "set".
Pushing forward on the unset rear trigger pushes the blade up against the sear arm which releases the lock and allows the gun to fire.
Like I said, this is normal for all double set triggers.

Now, there have been cases where the double set trigger was installed too deeply. If this happens, that blade on the rear trigger will be pushing up on the sear arm at all times unless the trigger is in a set condition. With the blade pushing up on the sear, the lock can't be set at full cock unless the set trigger is first, "set".

By setting the rear trigger, as the trigger moves rearward against the spring pressure, the blade on the top of it will be lowered. When it is lowered, it is no longer pushing up on the sear arm so, the lock can be set to full cock easily.
The problem with this for a hunter is, he will end up walking around in the woods with the trigger fully "set" and the slightest touch on the front trigger by a gloved finger or a branch on a bush can fire the gun.
 
I just fixed an issue similar to this with the .32 rifle I'm building. The set trigger wouldn't allow the rifle to stay cocked. A little inletting black on the sear bar revealed the area on the set trigger that I needed to file away. I took a round chain saw file and notched the area on the set trigger where the sear bar rests. Problem solved. Seemed the set trigger spring was causing tension on the set trigger to the point that it wouldn't allow room for the sear to be in its correct position when cocked to engage the notch. It has room now. I tried loosening the set trigger spring but that only caused everything to get sloppy.
 
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