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Inletting patch box

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Hey Fellas, I want to inlet a T/C Patch box onto my petonica stock.
I have some idea on approach but there are some of you on here through your advice and experience that could save me a ton of misery. The stock being convex and the part being somewhat flat. Ugh!
With that being said any advise on how to approach and do this would be appreciated.

Sm
 
Decide where you want the cap box to go and chisel out a pocket for anything that is sticking out the underside of the box to provide clearance for them.
You will want the edges of the box to be able to rest directly on the surface of the wood.

Once the edges of the box can rest directly on the wood, make sure the edges have a slight taper so the shape on the bottom of the plate is slightly smaller than the edge at the top of the plate. Use a file to taper the edges if they are not already tapered. It doesn't take much taper but some needs to be there so the upper surface will fit tightly in the mortise.

At this stage, I put several drops of instant (magic) glue on the bottom of the plate and press it into position.

Using a pointed hobby knife like an Exacto, then holding it at a slight angle to match the taper on the sides of the top plate and against the outside edges of the top to use as a guide, I begin pushing the tip of the knife into the wood. The penetration should be about 1/16" deep. Working my way around the plate at least twice and sometimes as much as three times to make sure that all of the incised cuts overlap, I then give the plate a few raps with a plastic mallet. This almost always causes the glue joint to break so the box can be lifted off of the gun.

Then, it's just a matter of using very narrow chisels to remove the wood inside the cuts, cutting from the center area out towards the incised cuts.
When you do this, apply a transfer agent like inletting black, lipstick or carbon from a candle to the underside of the plate. This will show areas that are preventing the plate from moving down deeper into the stock. Shave off any interferences and don't forget to check the pockets you cut for any lugs on the underside of the plate. Sometimes these pockets won't be deep enough and it's easy to overlook the need to increase the depth of them.

With a thick plate, it may be necessary to incise deeper cuts so with the wood in the center area removed I place the plate back onto the stock using the existing mortise to locate and guide it. It's then just a matter of using the metal edge as a guide again and increasing the depth of the cuts to accommodate the thick top plate.

Typically, when the top plate can be installed so that its edges are flush with or, slightly below the surface of the existing wood I call it finished and then sand the wood down so that the surface exactly matches the top plate. There shouldn't be any mismatch at the edges.

Have fun. :)
 
Zonie, thank you. I am a little bit daunted by the task.
I have done other inletting that came out pretty good but I figured I would ask those that have been there and done it.
As they say...no harm in asking......

SM
 
I am working on a patch box right now. Getting it all on video. Making it from scratch. It has a curved hinge that actually works! I am doing video of every step in making it. It will be posted on You Tube in a few weeks.
 
Hey Fellas, I want to inlet a T/C Patch box onto my petonica stock.
The stock being convex and the part being somewhat flat. Ugh!


Sm
One other thought you might consider: If you don't want to change the stock contour, and if there is enough brass (thick enough) then match the stock curve on the PB by filing it down. That is my preference, if there is a choice to do so.
flintlocklar
 
On my capbox, I was able to remove the door, leaving a flat frame. I then gently bent it a bit to help conform to the stock. Holding it tight against the stock, I traced it with a fine pencil, then used a knife to cut into the wood just inside the line and small gouges and chisels to remove the wood to the desired depth. I kept checking the fit, removing a little at a time until the frame fit.

Then, with the door and spring back in place, I worked on their clearance in small bits. The center area (along the long axis) ended up a hair deeper than the surrounding stock, while the outer areas were a bit higher. I simply removed wood or metal until all surfaces were flush.

It's not as difficult as it seems, just tedious and time consuming to do it right.
Capboxinletting.jpg
Buttright.jpg
 
NEVER!
Now, a brother-in-laws, or a cousin's rifle could be fair game. After all, the folks who have loaned their guns to brother-in-law's and cousin's have often found their guns were used for everything from a boat paddle to swatting fly's on the wall. :D:D:cool:
Yep; loaned a gun to cousins once, returned the next month to find it being "stored" in an open barrel on the open air front porch.
 
I have a TVM Southern Poor Boy rifle that I've owned for about a year that I've decided to put a patch box and a side blade on and I've been nervous about that. Just received the patch box yesterday in the mail. Even though it looks so simple and easy I've been nervous about screwing up the rifle.
 
It is NOT easy so you have to grit your teeth and go for it. I hope you did not buy an engraved box. That does not work as you need to file and sand after fitting. Plus bending to form to the stock. I only engrave after all is fit. Don't remove any inlays to engrave.
I can say for a fact to make your own cutting tools but some chisels hold up. "V" cutters you buy will tear wood.
Hand engraving tools from Brownell's are super. You can't turn a rifle so you walk around it to engrave, much fun and easier then inletting. Now a pattern for the metal. I stared a few weeks at my box that I made from plate brass. Darn it is a turkey. Carving a pattern on the wood took many drawings too.
If you want fun, try cutouts in the box. They store many white coats for those of us that try it. One day I will tell you how.
 
It is NOT easy so you have to grit your teeth and go for it. I hope you did not buy an engraved box. That does not work as you need to file and sand after fitting. Plus bending to form to the stock. I only engrave after all is fit. Don't remove any inlays to engrave.
I can say for a fact to make your own cutting tools but some chisels hold up. "V" cutters you buy will tear wood.
Hand engraving tools from Brownell's are super. You can't turn a rifle so you walk around it to engrave, much fun and easier then inletting. Now a pattern for the metal. I stared a few weeks at my box that I made from plate brass. Darn it is a turkey. Carving a pattern on the wood took many drawings too.
If you want fun, try cutouts in the box. They store many white coats for those of us that try it. One day I will tell you how.
No the box is not engraved just plain Steel. Which is how I'm just going to leave it since it's a southern Poor Boy rifle I don't want it decorative. It's just a plain oval Bean patch box.
 
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This is what im hoping it will look like when im done only im going to age the steel.
 
Im hoping that this is what it will look like when im done except im going to age the steel.
Screenshot_2019-09-07-12-36-40.png
 

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