Inletting a Butt Plate and Other Questions

[Valkyrie]

So I’m ready to inlet the butt plate on the rifle I’m working on. Been watching and reading and still hesitant on starting. Add that sand castings of nickel silver are really not great. I went with that material because, again, I’m just going with a look and style of my own and no particular discipline.

Anyways. I had to order a new casting that won’t be here for a few days as the one I had was just too bad from the foundry to work with. It had really deep inclusions, areas where the metal contracted too far to shape level, etc.

But my big question first is, the top of the comb. I see some folks cut it flat. Others inlet it as a radius under the top of the butt plate. Which is the best way? Does it matter?

And I guess the next question is roughing in the cut. How does everyone lay out the shape to start with on the stock?

 

[Phil Coffins]

First step is to clean up the casting and most importantly have the surfaces that will be inlet smooth! Thats so you can make a good fit and not be fooled by all the rough edges.
I like the top tang to have a radius to guide the plate as it moves forward. It needn’t be full size, a 1/4” high but full width works.

 

[rich pierce]

I take a piece of thin cardboard like a cereal box and cut and trim it to fit inside the buttplate casting very closely. Then I lay this on the blank and trace where I want to saw. Then I saw it.

Many originals were simply sawn flat on the buttplate “return” area, or comb area. So it’s ok. But domed is better. But domed is harder.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I always use my band saw to cut the top extension on the buttstock as well as the curved back side.. Inlet down then forward.

 

[frankie]

I ran a post on doing a buttplate. Maybe look that up .

 

[Valkyrie]

I ran a post on doing a buttplate. Maybe look that up .

Yep. I read it. Lots of good information. I’m gonna start it maybe next week.

 

[billraby]

Flat or radius under the top will both work. But I prefer to have that wood under the top. With it flat you have the screw going through a good amount of empty space. Pretty easy for a good hit to bend that screw a little bit. Then it will always be loose. With wood filling in under the bottom of the butt plate you have no gap between wood and metal. Also the wood will prevent any chance of movement from side to side.

 

[Valkyrie]

Flat or radius under the top will both work. But I prefer to have that wood under the top. With it flat you have the screw going through a good amount of empty space. Pretty easy for a good hit to bend that screw a little bit. Then it will always be loose. With wood filling in under the bottom of the butt plate you have no gap between wood and metal. Also the wood will prevent any chance of movement from side to side.

Thanks again Bill! I’m gonna leave the wood under it and go with that. I have a lot to do.

 

[oldwood]

Have you measured the length of trigger pull , and cut the excess off.???

 

[Valkyrie]

Have you measured the length of trigger pull , and cut the excess off.???

There’s nothing to cut off. The rifle is a gift for my brother. My brother is 6’ 7”. Lol.

 

[oldwood]

See what you mean. I'm only 5' 7"....oops. I've put on over 160 butt plates......Too bad you aren't here , it would take an hour to install the plate. luck to ya.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I shaped my full length Hawken to conform to the inside radius of the butt plate. This was tedious work to get a good fit and of no obvious benefit.

 

[Sean E Bug]

I have cut it flat. it works both ways. I would think flat is easier to do the first time.