Inlay black

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I went to my local BP shop for some inleting black stuff. They were out. They said use a candle. Is there anything else that would work for inleting black? I can order some but it will atleast be a week or more before it arrives. Which is ok but I would rather keep moving on the project. Thanks for the help.
 
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Ok. Thanks. Wonder if sharpie would work. I seen guys use lipstick.
Sharpie works great. I've pretty much switched away from oil lamp soot in favor of Sharpie mainly because it's just less messy than lamp soot. Your hands and fingers will stay much cleaner, as will your project.
My advice is to get a big fat black one. The red, green, and blue work also, but if you mess up and get it on exterior surface wood, it's a pain to clean out of the grain with acetone. Just use black, it'll blend better later on.
Paint several coats on at first letting it dry between coats, then rock on. Apply another whole coat each time you fit and tap the part.
 
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Sharpie works great. I've pretty much switched away from oil lamp soot in favor of Sharpie mainly because it's just less messy than lamp soot.
My advice is to get a big fat black one. The red, green, and blue work also, but if you mess up and get it on exterior surface wood, it's a pain to clean out of the grain with acetone. Just use black, it'll blend better later on.
Paint several coats on at first letting it dry between coats, then rock on. Apply another whole coat each time you fit and tap the part.
Sounds good. I will give it a go. Thanks.
 
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Sharpie will work, but it dries out. You need something that stays moist and sticky. Lipstick to me is a better choice. JMO
Larry
Even dried it will still transfer sufficiently when you tap the part. Several coats put on first leaves a thicker layer of color, then a coat with each fit up leaves a wet enough coat of color anyway.

Errant lipstick leaves a waxy residue that I wouldn't want to risk interfering with epoxy bedding, stain, or finish. Sharpie will do no harm in that regard.
 
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Even dried it will still transfer sufficiently when you tap the part. Several coats put on first leaves a thicker layer of color, then a coat with each fit up leaves a wet enough coat of color anyway.

Errant lipstick leaves a waxy residue that I wouldn't want to risk interfering with epoxy bedding, stain, or finish. Sharpie will do no harm in that regard.
You have provided us with food for thought, thanks!
I like inlet black and would prefer lipstick as an alternative. Put it on once or until it is worn off. Ammonia will remove lipstick and I never use epoxy. Stain underneath any part is a non issue to me. Again, thanks as we all have our own choices.
Larry
 
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Stain underneath any part is a non issue to me.
Gotta love the good old internet. Didn't say stain under a part.

Errant lipstick, as in getting it somewhere you don't want it, which happens with everything I've ever tried, except Sharpie. Extra work isn't something I strive for in a project that's already a lot of work when done right.
 
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Gotta love the good old internet. Didn't say stain under a part.

Errant lipstick, as in getting it somewhere you don't want it, which happens with everything I've ever tried, except Sharpie. Extra work isn't something I strive for in a project that's already a lot of work when done right.
Excuse my miss understanding. :doh: If anyone is sloppy, that is me! Glad you like what you do, but everyone to his own liking.
Larry
 
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The large sharpie markers are excellent. Let it dry. They do not give a mark unless there is significant pressure. This avoids false marks and improves your work immensely. Your hands will be clean if you use sharpie.

Permatex Prussian blue is an old stand by. It is a mess. Lipstick has insufficient color to make a good transfer with a thin film, for me. Purpose made inletting black is fine. It is also a mess. Soot never gave enough transfer for me. An oil lantern with the glass chimney give more soot than a candle. I apply a super thin film of grease or oil first. There are lots of acceptable choices.
 
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For those of you who try Sharpie or other "permanent" markers, try using denatured alcohol or even 70%+ isopropryl alcohol to clean up. It removes marker dye from non-porous surfaces almost instantly, gets it off porous surfaces (i.e. wood) with a little rubbing, and flashes off quickly & completely.
 
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Excuse my miss understanding. :doh: If anyone is sloppy, that is me! Glad you like what you do, but everyone to his own liking.
Larry
Don't take it personally bud, I'm not making for an argument with you, but I am stating facts for the OP's benefit. He's the one asking the questions looking for advice.
 
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Thanks for all the insight. I'm really new to this and looking for what works for me. That's why I like this forum. A lot of great ideas. Or as the saying goes more than 1 way to skin a cat.
 
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Thanks for all the insight. I'm really new to this and looking for what works for me. That's why I like this forum. A lot of great ideas. Or as the saying goes more than 1 way to skin a cat.
I never liked the soot thing. I don't like the idea of breathing in all the stuff. I like the Jarrows inletting black or yellow, I use it very sparingly. A little goes a very very long way.
 
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I use oil lamp soot, with care.
I've pretty much switched away from oil lamp soot in favor of Sharpie mainly because it's just less messy than lamp soot. Your hands and fingers will stay much cleaner, as will your project.
Yeah, if your going to be messy with any transfer agent,, it's going to be messy.
It's a simple matter to have a damp clean cloth at hand to remove applied soot from the parts that will be touched with your fingers and leave it only on the actual area the soot transfer agent needs to be for each application.

The same applies for all soluble transfer agents. In all applications of inlay.

Water soluble oil lamp soot works extremely well,
,just don't get a transfer agent on your fingers while touching everything else and all is well.
 

Brent

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Sharpie works great. I've pretty much switched away from oil lamp soot in favor of Sharpie mainly because it's just less messy than lamp soot. Your hands and fingers will stay much cleaner, as will your project.
My advice is to get a big fat black one. The red, green, and blue work also, but if you mess up and get it on exterior surface wood, it's a pain to clean out of the grain with acetone. Just use black, it'll blend better later on.
Paint several coats on at first letting it dry between coats, then rock on. Apply another whole coat each time you fit and tap the part.

White board markers work better, Blue is best in my opinion.
 

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