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Incised carving

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I've been thinking ahead to a future project. I'd like to do some incised carving on the rifle. Those of you who've done it, can you give me your how-to advice? Those who've only given it some thought but not done I'd appreciate your ideas as well.

I'm wondering how much incised carving might be too much. Is it OK to do as much incised as relief? Does incised maybe look cheap? How about these things: scrolls behind the cheek piece, carving outlines around the nose of the stock,around the tang, the beaver tails behind the lock panels, and other places. All these are places relief carving might be done. What looks right and what looks wrong?

I'm thinking incised because it is easier than relief. My hands are losing there dexterity. Three doctors have told me I might be in the early stage of Parkinson's, but there is no test for it, so it just supposition for now.
 
I have always found incise carving much more demanding the relief carving. Some use a 'V' chisel with great success, I have not enough confidence in my hand obeying my brain anymore to do it that way. I use a knife and an exacto knife, it probably takes more time but it works for me.
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Robby
 
Get a good V chisel and get it very sharp. They are hard to sharpen because they are actually more like a U at the very bottom. It’s easy to get the sides sharp but that bottom bit is tricky. Once you get it sharp you should be able to cut a straight line and get uniform depth and a long continuous curl of wood coming off the chisel.

I often use a V chisel just like a graver, using an engraving hammer to drive it versus pushing. I advise doing a lot of practice.
 
Nothing easier about getting incised carving to look good. From what I have seen originals with only incised carving tend to be rather simple patterns. I usually use a combination of low relief and incised which you see on a lot of originals.
 
Incised carving is much more difficult to get to look good than relief. The lines MUST be perfect! At least with relief carving, there is some room to make some corrections.
It’s very easy to turn a $1500 kit into a $300 rifle with crappy carving.
A well executed, plain gun is much better looking than a poorly carved and decorated one.
 
I've done some checkering on modern firearms when I was a gunsmith and have been attempting some incise carving on a piece of scrap 2x6. After making my straight lines I have discovered my V chisels are very tough to get the same depth and V shape the entire length of the line. My single-line checkering tool is much easier to use and control, but I'm not at the point I'm ready to whittle on my Kibler stock.
 
I really like incise carving. it seemed approachable as a beginner. I have both v and u tools from ramelson. I prefer hand push over hitting with a mallet. pay attention to the grain direction as the tool wants to slip when in line with the grain. if it gets stuck give the tool a wiggle. as with everything practice is very important. practice drawing first to get the design right. then practice on offcuts of hardwood or a piece of maple from a hardware store. it is easier to follow a line if the edge of your tool is on it rather than keeping it centered in the cut. try it out you might have some fun.
 

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I found this tool Mikisyo Power Grip carving knife chisel triangular 1.5mm on Ebay it was around $11 it is very sharp it works great for incised carving especially on maple. I have been incising a grapevine down the length of the barrel on both sides with leaves, just slowly push and wiggle it. I also ordered a round chisel of the same brand so I can try making the grape clusters. So far it is working but it is hard to keep the even depth. Thinking about going over it with a checkering tool to even out everything. Give it a try. These are also available on Amazon.
 
I have always found incise carving much more demanding the relief carving. Some use a 'V' chisel with great success, I have not enough confidence in my hand obeying my brain anymore to do it that way. I use a knife and an exacto knife, it probably takes more time but it works for me.View attachment 168371
Robby
I don't know what you used,a "V" chisel, Exacto knife or a sledge hammer but what ever it was it sure worked great!
 
I found drawing the pattern to incise is the hardest part. My ability is stick figures; my sister however was an artist. I could incise her drawing and it would look GOOD. I agree with Phil Coffins they don't need to be deep.

Checkering is way easier IMHO especially with modern tools.
Do you mean like this? This is my version of practicing wire inlay on scrap wood.
 

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If you are going the v tool route, PRACTICE! A lot!!! and not only on flat surfaces, but contours as well. Think about the shape of your wrist behind the tang. From when you start the incised carving you will be constantly changing the elevation of your tool to keep a consistent shallow groove in the wood all the while following your drawing. I use a small wooden mallet and chase carve all my incised cuts. Your body position is also important, you want to be comfortably positioned to have control of your cut. Anticipate where your tool will be going next and don't wait to make the tool go that direction, that is the key to smooth curves and transitions without elbows. I like to use Pfeil V tools and have several but my go to is a 16-1, I have 3 of them sharpened to keep continuity once I start. You will need to learn to sharpen them correctly, stropping works for sure, but sooner or later you will need to sharpen them, especially depending on the wood. I built an Isaac Berlin last year from a highly figured stumpcut blank that probably had a lot of mineral in the wood, that will dull your tools quickly and required me to touch up my tools at least a half dozen times on the build. One advantage of carving this way is you can relief carve as well, also the same principles apply to hand engraving. As far as the design, which is one of your questions as to what looks right or wrong, we have to know what it is you are building to suggest what would be appropriate.
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My personal method is using an eXacto knife and also mini-rifler files. Because I am not a very good carver, I try to keep the design simple but balanced in the work space. (And know my limitations! One sure-fire thing that can ruin a beautifully made rifle is terrible carving cut into it!)
Here is the before and after of a simple carved rifle I did last year. The wood is Maple with a big ol' stain in it.
 

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My personal method is using an eXacto knife and also mini-rifler files. Because I am not a very good carver, I try to keep the design simple but balanced in the work space. (And know my limitations! One sure-fire thing that can ruin a beautifully made rifle is terrible carving cut into it!)
Here is the before and after of a simple carved rifle I did last year. The wood is Maple with a big ol' stain in it.
Beautiful work!
About a year ago I decided to try my hand at incise carving on an old .22LR stock I had. Needless to say I will not be posting any photos of that stock. But I believe the gun is safe from theft now…
 
Beautiful work!
About a year ago I decided to try my hand at incise carving on an old .22LR stock I had. Needless to say I will not be posting any photos of that stock. But I believe the gun is safe from theft now…
Like you, I know my limitations. I'm a stick figure artist like one of the other commenters mentioned.
 
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