I'm already frustrated, and I've had the gun 30 minutes!

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GAHUNTER60

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I just got my Kibler Colonial in the white, and there is not one word on how to remove the barrel from the stock for finishing. There's like ten pins on the stock, but no instruction on which, if any, have to be removed to separate the stock and barrel. I guess if I had built the gun, I'd know these things, but I didn't, so I don't!

I assume I'll have to remove them all to sand and finish the stock. Where in the world do you get a punch that small (especially one that's not tapered)? At the moment my blood pressure is rising so fast, I'm about three minutes from having a stroke! The funny thing is all the people on here who told me how easy it would be to buy the kit and put it together, and I can't even handle the simple task of removing the barrel and hardware!
 

jdw276

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I just got my Kibler Colonial in the white, and there is not one word on how to remove the barrel from the stock for finishing. There's like ten pins on the stock, but no instruction on which, if any, have to be removed to separate the stock and barrel. I guess if I had built the gun, I'd know these things, but I didn't, so I don't!

I assume I'll have to remove them all to sand and finish the stock. Where in the world do you get a punch that small (especially one that's not tapered)? At the moment my blood pressure is rising so fast, I'm about three minutes from having a stroke! The funny thing is all the people on here who told me how easy it would be to buy the kit and put it together, and I can't even handle the simple task of removing the barrel and hardware!
Use a finish nail? Hold the small nail with a pair of needle nose plyers and gently tap em out? Pleae note other builders will chime in. I am NOT a builder.
 

Griz44Mag

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Take a chill pill - and there is NO NEED to panic.
A good hardware store will have a set of long straight pin punches.
And yes - there are punches small enough. Get a small brass head hammer if you don't have one. It will save the finishes for you.
If you cannot find them there any tool supplier on the NET will be happy to help you.
Enjoy the hobby and the process. Take your time, hopefully you have a lot of that left.
Keep the pins in order - take pictures, label each one individually and put in it a piece of tape with the location on it.
Each pin has been set to length for the location it is in, and needs to go back there.
Settle down - and TAKE YOUR TIME.
You are going to love the new Kibler....
 

Larry (Omaha)

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The pins above the RR thimbles stay, if removing just the barrel. The others under the barrel are for the barrel. (3 or 4 usually) There will be two more holding the trigger guard, one by each end. That should get you started. I invert my gun over a bench with a full length pad and pull the stock away from the barrel. Be careful not to tip the muzzle end too far so as to make the tang chip out wood at that inlet.
Don't hurry.
Good luck!
 

Griz44Mag

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The pins above the RR thimbles stay, if removing just the barrel. The others under the barrel are for the barrel. (3 or 4 usually) There will be two more holding the trigger guard, one by each end. That should get you started. I invert my gun over a bench with a full length pad and pull the stock away from the barrel. Be careful not to tip the muzzle end too far so as to make the tang chip out wood at that inlet.
Don't hurry.
Good luck!
I think he said he got the gun "in the white".
That means the barrel - the wood, the lock, and all the hardware will need to be fine finished, so he will likely wind up removing all the pins and screws to do a finish job.
 

Bnewberry

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Be careful and patient! study the pins and the relation to the thimbles. The ones right over the thimbles hold them in. You will need to remove the other ones along the barrel.

I don’t know this model, but on a lot of muzzleloaders you have to remove the lock to remove the barrel so start there.

As has been suggested, keep track of what goes where. Get a 8x11 piece of cardboard or stiff paper. Make a diagram of each pin and when you take one out tape it to the paper next to its location on the diagram.

Do a web search for flintlock barrel removal. There is a trick to doing it so you don’t break the stock or chip it. A Youtube video is worth 1000 words on how to do this once you have the pins out!
 

Larry (Omaha)

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I think he said he got the gun "in the white".
That means the barrel - the wood, the lock, and all the hardware will need to be fine finished, so he will likely wind up removing all the pins and screws to do a finish job.
Thanks Griz, I know, but he said barrel, that is why I called them out.
 

GAHUNTER60

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BTW, It looks like a 1/16" drill bit (held backwards with my needle nose pliers) will punch the pins out without damaging the hole.

My frustration simply stems from not having any directions specific to what I'm doing. I kinda figured I wouldn't get such directions since only a small amount of rifles are sold in the white.
 

Griz44Mag

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BTW, It looks like a 1/16" drill bit (held backwards with my needle nose pliers) will punch the pins out without damaging the hole.

My frustration simply stems from not having any directions specific to what I'm doing. I kinda figured I wouldn't get such directions since only a small amount of rifles are sold in the white.
That would be a correct assumption.
Invest in some quality tools. If you are going to enjoy the black arts then you will need them. That's a one time investment - you spent a lot more than that for a fine rifle, don't cheap out on a few good tools you need to care for it.
 

EC121

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Don't worry about the pins. Just punch them out. Be careful and don't dimple the wood with the punch. Worry about bending or breaking the long tang as you remove the barrel. It should have some draft filed on it, but you never know.
 

BJamesBeck

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As long as the pins aren't terribly tight, sometimes a straightened out portion of a paperclip can work as well.
 

SDSmlf

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Sounds like you need to calm down, sit back and just look at your new rifle and enjoy it for a bit. Nothing you will not be able to figure out with a little help. I see from your profile you are in Gainsville GA. With luck, there may be a knowledgeable forum member you could meet up with and carefully walk through what and how you should do. And if your not comfortable disassembling/assembling to finish the gun by yourself, you may want to consider paying someone to do it.

In the world of muzzleloader kits, you have one of the best currently available. And with it assembled in the white, you are just talking about sanding, polishing and finishing. No fitting or other difficult tasks required. Why don’t you send Jim an email asking what tools you will need to finish up your gun? He doesn’t want anybody struggling with one of his kits.
 
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