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Ideal weight of each spring on the lock

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TheTyler7011

Pilgrim
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Hey guys, i have enjoyed fixing the lock on one of my flintlocks. I had to reshape the frizzen toe, create a new screw for the frizzen spring, and grind down and polish the spring itself. Just so i can learn more about working on these, what is the ideal weight and pressure for the mainspring and the frizzen spring? Is their a tool that you use to check and measure? Indian muskets are usually very heavy which is the case with mine and id like to tune it up for the flints sake.

Thank you, look forward to learning from you all.

Tyler
 
Indian muskets are usually very heavy which is the case with mine and id like to tune it up for the flints sake.

India origin locks tend to "feel" heavy, and folks think they are very heavy because they "look" heavy. The metal in the springs is thick, but it's thick for a reason. They are using lesser steel than the fellows in Italy, for example. Thin that out too much...and you will snap a spring, and they don't interchange when they are from India like the Pedersoli or Jap Bess lock parts do.

I've found that by altering the cam or toe on the frizzen, and by polishing that and where it meets the frizzen spring, as well as polishing the sides of the frizzen with a stone where it rubs against the lock plate and the inner side of the pan bridle, a lot of friction is reduced. Now as for your flint's sake, check your angle of impact. That's normally the problem.

LD
 
I doubt there is an ideal, possibly a range of weights to aim for but due to there being so many variables they should be brought to life on a one to one basis. Even CNC machining won't come out with a cure for flintlock uniformity. That's why Pedersoli springs are always way to strong. They have to be. If they made them to light the come backs would be to great a number!
 
If they made them to light the come backs would be to great a number!
On of the loaner muskets that I am currently servicing is a venerable Pedersoli Bess...and the frizzen spring is quite a bit different than on the younger versions, and quite a bit lighter...and in fact needs to be replaced. I think it's gotten weak...as I can't believe it was this light from day one, and there are no signs it was altered (well it might've been tampered with using heat, but not metal removal). It is however, very very thin.

LD
 

I have a question....

My locks hammer is positioned in a way that the top of the clamp hits before the flint does. And if I put a long enough flint to in there prevent this, the frizzen can no longer be closed while the weapon is in half cock.

Strange...any ideas ?

@Loyalist Dave
 
I need a picture to visualize how the top jaw hits the frizzen before the flint. Need to see the half cock position. Need to see where the flint strikes the frizzen. Need to see where the flint comes to a final rest above the pan.

Do you have your new flints?

1585094120904.png

If this is half cock, you need a longer flint.
 
Hey guys, i have enjoyed fixing the lock on one of my flintlocks. I had to reshape the frizzen toe, create a new screw for the frizzen spring, and grind down and polish the spring itself. Just so i can learn more about working on these, what is the ideal weight and pressure for the mainspring and the frizzen spring? Is their a tool that you use to check and measure? Indian muskets are usually very heavy which is the case with mine and id like to tune it up for the flints sake.

Thank you, look forward to learning from you all.

Tyler

Hi Tyler,

Cock assemblies and Tumblers on Flintlocks and Hammers and Tumblers on Percussion Locks in Military Firearms have to have stronger mainsprings due to the sheer size of the parts. I have never actually weighed mainspring tension in these locks, but it would not surprise me if they ran 30 pounds or more of tension.

The most accurate way to measure the spring tension of the mainsprings is to hang certified weights from the Cock or Hammer to see what weight compresses the spring. A less accurate way is to use a special spring tension or digital tension gauge. Unless one is a gunsmith who often works on competitive shooting guns, even many gunsmiths won't have a gauge that will go high enough to measure the pound weight compression strength for mainsprings on these guns, because the weights or gauges cost too much.

Gus
 
I have a question....

My locks hammer is positioned in a way that the top of the clamp hits before the flint does. And if I put a long enough flint to in there prevent this, the frizzen can no longer be closed while the weapon is in half cock.

Strange...any ideas ?

Yes...that particular cock does not belong on that particular lock.....
Try inverting the flint...
COCK Bevel down flint.jpg


Or try knapping the flint with the edge of the frizzen...,
You just touch the edge of the frizzen to the edge of the flint, and crunch off a tiny bit. It may work, and it may not, depending on how the cock to the frizzen fits... You may need to raise the cock from it's full-down position so that the edge of the Frizzen just touches the edge of the flint...
COCK Knapp with FRIZZEN.jpg


LD
 
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