Idaho Lewis Modified NASA lube

[chorizo]

I recently received a brick of Idaho Lewis' Modified NASA lube. Reading some of his old posts and over at his old forum, he liked it thin and sticky, claiming (and I don't doubt him) that thin is more accurate.. The smell reminded me of something, but couldn't place it.

Upon investigating his modification I found that it is synthetic 2 cycle motor oil! Approximately 5 ozs per pound of NASA. I immediately connected smell with formula. Now that doesn't jive with all the hoopla about "natural, non-petroleum based" lubes. As Gen Ripper said, "How does that fit with your post-war communist conspiracy". I don't know what was in the NASA lube. (~ Lubes ~)

So I decided, WTH, I am going to try that too. So I took 1 lb of my hard lube of mutton tallow 1 part to 5 parts beeswax and 1 part solid ALOX lube and a tablespoon of olive oil and added 2.5 ozs of synthetic 2 cycle oil to it and bricked it up. While it isn't NASA lube (more like Basco sheepherder lube) It is going to get a try out on some REAL 50 cal 320 gr and some REAL 58 cal 444 gr in a heads up comparison to Idaho Lewis lube.

According to Lewis, thin is better for accuracy. As I tin these up anyway, it should not matter. We shall see.

IdahoLewis quote: " I have found a Thinner lube to be Superior to Thicker. I like it SOFT, where it will just hold in the Grooves. Place an 1/8” Wool Felt Wad (Oversize) Between the Powder and Bullet lubed as i just spoke of, It just Doesn’t get any better than that"

 

[longcruise]

One of the more popular lubes among BPCR guys starts out with a tube of graphite impregnated chassis grease. I made some up once but don't recall the rest of the formula but it's probably out there somewhere. It played well with BP.

 

[Bnewberry]

One of the more popular lubes among BPCR guys starts out with a tube of graphite impregnated chassis grease. I made some up once but don't recall the rest of the formula but it's probably out there somewhere. It played well with BP.

We used to put synthetic grease over the balls in our cap and ball pistols. Kept the running for 50-60 shots easy.

 

[SDSmlf]

So I took 1 lb of my hard lube of mutton tallow 1 part to 5 parts beeswax and 1 part solid ALOX lube and a tablespoon of olive oil and added 2.5 ozs of synthetic 2 cycle oil to it and bricked it up. While it isn't NASA lube (more like Basco sheepherder lube) It is going to get a try out on some REAL 50 cal 320 gr and some REAL 58 cal 444 gr in a heads up comparison to Idaho Lewis lube

Not all synthetic 2 cycle oil may be equal. I have done some limited experimenting with Stihl 2 cycle synthetic oil mixed into some bullet lubes and at least initially, seems to work well, particularly with leading. I believe your friend in Idaho suggests the Stihl oil. I know I can tell when I using it in my 2 cycle engines as the exhaust has a definite unique waxy smell to it.

It will interesting to hear your test results.

 

[chorizo]

Not all synthetic 2 cycle oil may be equal. I have done some limited experimenting with Stihl 2 cycle synthetic oil mixed into some bullet lubes and at least initially, seems to work well, particularly with leading. I believe your friend in Idaho suggests the Stihl oil. I know I can tell when I using it in my 2 cycle engines as the exhaust has a definite unique waxy smell to it.

It will interesting to here your test results.

I used homelite synthetic and it has the same distinct waxy smell but a brighter green color. It will be next week as the weather here is still locked in old man winter's grip. I can't believe there is that much difference between them, at least in this application.

 

[chorizo]

@SDSmlf I went up the MSDS sheets for both Ryobi/Homelite 2 cycle synthetic and Stihl 2 Cycle synthetic. Homelite is "70-90%" Solvent-refined heavy paraffinic distillate" and "bio-degradable within 60-90 days"...mixture of the additives is a proprietary blend in type and amounts but none of the items are considered hazardous.

Stihl is 80-100% Oak Palm based and made from natural oils and also biodegradable and additives in amounts and types is also proprietary and non-hazardous. Seems the Stihl has a more "natural" plant based oil whereas the homelite has carbon hydro-carbon based oil that is also biodegradable.

I guess I will find out.

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

ALL oil is carbon-based.

 

[chorizo]

ALL oil is carbon-based.

You are absolutely correct. I meant petroleum (hydro-carbon) based.

Thank you, Dale

 

[SDSmlf]

I used homelite synthetic and it has the same distinct waxy smell but a brighter green color. It will be next week as the weather here is still locked in old my winter's grip. I can't believe there is that much difference between them, at least in this application.

I honestly don’t know if will make a difference, just that I found that Stihl has a unique smell to it, quite different than the Homelite, though I haven’t compared them head to head. Got a six pack of the stuff when I bought a chainsaw and Stihl had a promotion on that added a few extra years of warranty if you purchased the oil with the saw.

Don’t know how many ‘synthetics’ they have to squeeze to get the oil out, but the 2 cycle synthetic seems to play nice with blackpowder. Have not tried it with any of the subs.

As I mentioned previously, curious to hear about your results. I’m about out of my lube and will be mixing some up soon.

 

[Rawhide67]

I think I'd rather deal with fouling than alox or axle grease. Both are like never seize, they end up everywhere make an absolute mess.

 

[chorizo]

I think I'd rather deal with fouling than alox or axle grease. Both are like never seize, they end up everywhere make an absolute mess.

I am not talking about ALOX the Aluminum Oxide, rather ALOX cast bullet lube in stick form.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010247497?pid=785628

 

[Rawhide67]

Yup, that nasty sticky stuff. Good lube, just gets everywhere in my sizer/luber.

 

[Bushfire]

I wish he was still around.

 

[chorizo]

I wish he was still around.

Yep, but he left a treasure trove of info.

 

[DCAN]

Not all synthetic 2 cycle oil may be equal. I have done some limited experimenting with Stihl 2 cycle synthetic oil mixed into some bullet lubes and at least initially, seems to work well, particularly with leading. I believe your friend in Idaho suggests the Stihl oil. I know I can tell when I using it in my 2 cycle engines as the exhaust has a definite unique waxy smell to it.

It will interesting to hear your test results.

I learned the hard way that not all 2 cycle oil is the same. I used 2 cycle oil intended for liquid cooled engines in an air cooled engine. Fried the air cooled engine. Saw dealer told me I wasn't the only one to have assumed outboard motor oil would work in a chainsaw. Made my feel a little better.....

 

[chorizo]

Yeah, but I don't think either one of those oil's intended use is bullet lube, so I think I will be fine

 

[Rawhide67]

I wish he was still around.

Did something happen, seems like he was around not long ago. Or am I mixing him up with someone else?

 

[chorizo]

Did something happen, seems like he was around not long ago. Or am I mixing him up with someone else?

Supposedly he got really tired of the drama and repetitiveness of the forums, even his own forum, so he quit participating sometime last fall, I believe.

Wealth of knowledge on long range shooting and accuracy. I have tried to build some of my carbines based upon information I gleamed from his "hot rod" builds. I believe @Idaho Ron could tell you more as my information is second hand at best. He communicated with him directly.

 

[DCAN]

Yeah, but I don't think either one of those oil's intended use is bullet lube, so I think I will be fine

Chain saw bar oil might be worth a try on patches. Surely someone has already done it.

 

[chorizo]

Chain saw bar oil might be worth a try on patches. Surely someone has already done it.

This specifically is being used in small amounts for bullet lube to soften it and has an OP wad between powder and bullet. I think the petro-carbon oil might cause you some issues on patches, powder and fouling.