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The figures will vary depending on what you use for "Pi", but I ran this:

.50"(Diameter of the bore) divided by 2=.25
.25(Radius squared) x .25 =.625
.625 x Pi( 3.1416) = 1.9635

1.9635 x 11.5= 2.2580 Grains per cubic inch of bore.

Now, 31"( barrel length) x 2.2580 = 69.99 grains.(70 grains)

36"( barrel length) x 2.2580 = 81.288 grains( 81 grains)

I hope that helps you. :hatsoff:

Oh, you will be happy to know that I had my Brother, the Engineer, brush off the rust on my Mathematical "skills"(??? :rotf: ) to help me figure out how to do that formula a couple of years ago. I hope this detailed answer will help you and other members remember how to determine a volume(cube) of a certain cylinder. ( Pi R Squared ),where R(Radius) equals 1/2 the Diameter of the cylinder.
I made a chart for my own use, for all the popular calibers, in 2 inch( even numbered barrel lengths, for a quick reference table, from 28" to 44" barrel lengths. ( .32 to .75" calibers)

For uneven numbered barrel lengths, between those I have on my charts, I simply make a quick calculation of what 1/2 of the difference between the smaller and larger length is, and add that number to the small barrel length to answer questions. For barrels shorter than 28", I use the formula mentioned here and just run the calculations on my pocket calculator.
 
As a professional machinist, I have used the cheap tools only when the dimension is rough (+/- .060 or more) or the tool could be destroyed (setting us certain machines). I have found that they have a tenancy to not repeat, more noticeable with digital btw.

Calipers imho are for nothing but rough dimensions, +/- .030 or worse, anything tighter than that requires a micrometer or pin gauges.

mike
 
For barrels with even numbered grooves, using a caliper to measure a bore diameter, or groove diameter poses no problem. The "blades" on my caliper are thin enough to fit into the grooves of most calibers.

If you have a gun with an uneven number of grooves, then you need a barrel gauge.

I have also used an old fashioned set of barrel gauges, where you have two arms held under a single spring tension, with a screw adjustment. You put the two arms inside the tube you are trying to measure, run the screw down to hold the two arms, or Mark them in that position, and then draw the arms back out. I use these when measuring smoothbores with muzzle choke on them, as the arms are long enough to reach down past the choke, and you can close the arms to take them back out past the choke constriction, and then let them return to the set screw position. I transfer that measurement to a micrometer to get the bore diameter.

Like these:
http://www.google.com/products/cat...alog_result&ct=image&resnum=2&ved=0CD4Q8gIwAQ#
 
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If I were a professional machinist, I would also use a digital caliper, along with different tools and gauges.

Not standing next to you when you have tried a "Cheap" tool, and not knowing its source, or condition, nor how you test it, I can only speak from MY OWN experience. I have no doubt that your experiences are different than my own.

Since I have more than one caliper, and more than one micrometer, I use them to test any new tool I acquire, as well as each other.[Hint: New drill bits make great "Test Samples" to check your tools. The more expensive the bit, the more likely that its made to high tolerances. ]

My "Cheap Chinese" caliper is made actually in Japan, by "KANON"; My Vernier caliper is made by Brown & Sharpe Mtg. Co, in Providence, R.I.;
my old .001" micrometer is made by Welch, in the USA; and my best micrometer is made by Lufkin, also USA, with the click adjustable stem that allows measurements to .0001".

MY brother got the Starrett micrometers from Dad. Dad had checked all the micrometers before he gave them to us, and we were present when most of them were tested on known stock. My brother is a professional mechanical engineer, and Dad thought he would have more opportunities to need a best quality micrometer than I would, altho there is nothing different between how his Starrett and my Lufkin mikes work.
 
So, with 42" barrels on my guns that'd put my .45 at 77 grains and my .62 at 146 grains? Those sure seem like hot loads for me at least. My best luck comes with max loads of 80 gr in my .62 and 65 in my .45. These are 3F and hunting loads. Best accuracy seems to come with around 40-60 in the .45 and 50-60 in my .62. I can't seem to see much difference in lube type but have real good accuracy with pre-lubed pre-cut ticking patches (I think .015-.018) with wonderlube. My best accuracy always comes when shooting off the bench and that's where I always shoot when testing loads and trying to get the best group. Accuracy with my .45 and .440 ball is 50 cent piece at 50 yds and quarter at 25. Still trying to get something much better than 6-8" at 50 yds with my .62.
 
Going out to do more shooting tommorow and will try loads lighter than the 70 grs I have been shooting. I'll report back.
 
Ya done the math correctly and I agree the answers are what I would call a "hot" load.
The answers are supposedly a guide to a maximum efficient load. Not necessary the best load or the maximum load.
The way I see it these numbers are just general guidelines, nothing more.
 
lakota said:
It was .440" ball. I dont have a micrometer so I cant say for sure what thickness my patches are. They are from a bolt of pillow ticking I bought from wal mart a few years back.

All the patches I found today looked good. All they had was a dark circle where the ball was seated.

Today was the first time I cut patches at the muzzle and I think I like it better.The recovered patched looked more consistent in size and roundness than my home precut patched did. It also gives me an excuse to actually use the patch knife I bought a few years ago. Back then the only reason I bought it was because I thougt it looked cool!


You didn't say if the previous owner used .440. Some .45's will shoot better with a .445 ball.
 
I asked him what if he used a .440 or .445 and he said he didnt know the diameter and that he just used balls he cast from an old bullet mold he had on hand and he wouldnt part with the mold.
 
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